Modern Farm Table - New Pocket Hole Plan

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Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 10/08/2013 - 10:26
Difficulty
Beginner
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Free plans to build a West Elm inspired Modern Farm Table from ana-white.com

modern farm table plans

Hi everyone! Did you know Thanksgiving is just around the corner? Yikes - we've got a whole dining room to put together by them for the Momplex! 

 

One of our all time favorite farm table plans is the Modern Farm Table.  

 

 

Image by Sara

 

 

image by The Handcrafted Homestead

 

But the plans themselves are far from modern - one of the first I posted many years ago!!!  So I wanted to take a second and put together new plans - and plans that use pocket holes since I know quite a few of you now build with Kreg Jigs.

 

Of course, you can also check out the original no pocket holes required plan here.

 

Matching bench plans are available here.

XO Ana

Dimensions
modern farm table plans
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

6 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long 3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long 1 - 2x6 @ 12 feet long (or you can buy 2 8 footers) 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws

Cut List

TABLETOP 4 - 1x6 @ 72" long 2 - 1x6 @ 69" long FRAME 2 - 2x4 @ 69" long 3 - 2x4 @ 30" long (cut to fit!!!) LEGS 4 - 2x6 @ 30" long 2 - 2x4 @ 22" long (cut to fit!!!!)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Drill 3/4" pocket holes along one edge of all but one short 1x6, about every 6-8". Clamp and join 1x6s carefully, working to create the smoothest possible tabletop. You'll need to make sure the 2x6 legs will fit in the notched out areas.

NOTE: If your 1x6s are exactly 72" long, but have rough ends, you can make the entire table 1/2" less to be able to cut the ends of the 1x6s.

Step 2

Test the fit of the boards first, making sure the base will be the width of the tabletop. You may need to adjust the length of your inside aprons.

For the side aprons and inside supports, drill 3/4" pocket holes along one long edge, about every 6-8 inches, for attaching to the tabletop in later steps.

Then drill (2) 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the inside supports (the shorter 2x4s) and attach to the side aprons with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, making sure your 3/4" pocket holes are all facing upward and hidden on inside.

Then attach the entire base to the tabletop through the 3/4" pocket holes with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Build your leg sets first, then glue and screw from inside to the frame.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

nataliafoote

Thu, 03/13/2014 - 18:02

I have four 2x6s (72") that I would like to use for this table top, but wondered how the project would change. I am a true beginner when it comes to woodworking, but am eager to learn. Thank you for your website. You have truly inspired me.

Burt VC

Mon, 09/22/2014 - 20:36

Hi Ana! I love your website. Thank you for sharing so much with the world! 

I just built this table but when I showed it to my neighbor and father-in-law, they were concerned that the legs would eventually buckle when moved, dragged toward the ends. Do you have any suggestions for reinforcing the legs? Are you confident that the structure is strong enough to last?

BrianV

Mon, 10/27/2014 - 09:34

I was wondering what the best wood to use for this project is.  Oak, Cherry, Walnut?

Also, if we add another board to make this 38.5"W, would we need to add any further reinforcement to the legs?

Thanks!

brgale

Tue, 12/23/2014 - 12:02

Is it just me or do the pictures of the finished table not match the plans provided? There is no overlap at the end of the table from the top 2x6s in the pictures. They butt right up against the 2x4 on the side.

brgale

Mon, 12/29/2014 - 08:49

I think I'll just modify these plans to match the pictures. I would like to use pocket holes instead of all of that bracing underneath the table.

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