Adirondack Chairs with Foot Rest
Great set of outdoor chairs with foot rest!
RG Design & Build
Great set of outdoor chairs with foot rest!
RG Design & Build
I modified this chair with 2x4's as the base and 2x2 for decoration on arms, this is prior to sanding and finishing
I've thought for a while about building a bed for our dogs, but wasn't sure where to start. We had an extra crib mattress so I set out to find a toddler bed that would work. I decided the Lydia Toddler Bed plan would work best. It doesn't look anything like it, but it was a great starting point.
First, I got rid of the canopy and the decorative side pannels. I also raised the bed 12 inches. (The hope is to add a rug on the floor underneath as sort of a "bottom bunk") The lumber store didn't have 2x2s so I used 2x3s for the legs. I also only used two 1x6s at the head and foot of the bed. They are seperated by 1" because when I got home, I realized they were actually 1x5 (RUDE).
All in all, it turned out exactly as I had hoped and the dogs love it! GOODBYE stinky dogbeds!
**Photo 1: Just finished building--the slats weren't screwed down yet.
**Photo 2: Deacon is testing out his new digs! See the stinky dogbed underneath?YUK!
**Photo 3: Dog Bed Completed! Mac & Deacon love it!
Thu, 10/16/2014 - 18:49
Thanks for sharing the great plans. We built this end in a few hours and she loves it!
I modified the plans for the Classic Bunk beds by making them 74" tall instead of 63" and added a fourth slat all the way around to add more protection from potential falls. I created one opening in the front for my youngest to get into the bottom bunk, and built slats about 2/3's across the front to act as a gaurd rail. I created another opening on the side for my oldest to get into the top bunk with stairs instead of ladders to again prevent falls. I had to modify the Sweet Pea stairs to accomodate for the extra height in the bunk beds, simplified the railings, and I created each cubby to be big enough to use cloth storage totes that were 11x11x11. Sanded the whole bed and stairs so the corners and edges were all rounded and smooth, and put two coats of white Deck and Porch paint to stand up to the the boys running up and down. I used brackets to secure the stairs to the bed, and sixteen 3" bolts to bind the bed together. Precut and drilled 17 slats for each bed seperated them 2" apart. Spent a few hours every night during the week measuring, cutting, glueing, drilling and assembling the bed and stairs. Spent an entire weekend sanding and painting. Very happy with the way these beds turned out. Overall cost of the project including the paint was around $400.
I saw this table on wyrmwoodgaming.com but I wanted to see if I could make it myself. I did it all in Cherry and used Tung oil to finish it. I have two coats of Tung oil on there for a finish. In all I paid about $800 for the cherry and flat steel I used for the magnetic rails on the sides.
Michael Frerichs
Wed, 03/27/2024 - 06:31
Investing in a custom game table can really enhance your gaming experience. It's not just about having a cool-looking setup, but also about creating a space where you can fully immerse yourself in the game without any distractions. Speaking of which, I recently stumbled upon a non Gamstop casino on https://notgamstop.com/ which adds an interesting twist to the gaming experience. Check it out if you are a keen player like me and choosing only the best options for yourself.
This was just a standard BBQ with an attached folding table. I used a combo of Ana's plans to add a little character and style to the BBQ and it made a huge difference in not only the BBQ, but also the backyard.
Mon, 05/23/2016 - 12:29
Hello: Very interested in which plans you used to build the BBQ Built In. Thank you.
Wed, 06/08/2016 - 09:22
Hello dbryant1977, please share the plans. Also, what's brand/model of BBQ? Very nice.
Thu, 04/09/2020 - 18:27
This is my guess on the plans used! https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-grill-island-featuri…
Fri, 08/30/2019 - 09:50
Are there plans for this project or at least some pictures from while you were building it?
Thu, 04/09/2020 - 18:27
This is my guess on the plans used! https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/diy-grill-island-featuri…
Wed, 04/22/2020 - 15:52
Can you provide us with the plans for this? I would love to build one.
Mon, 03/04/2024 - 14:49
Hello: Very interested in which plans you used to build the BBQ Built In. Thank you.
This was born out of the need for more counter space in our galley kitchen. We don't have the space to add an island. Especially around the holidays, it would be great to have extra space for making cookies, serving big meals, etc. I used Ana's Small Kitchen Island Prep Cart plans for inspiration. I adapted the dimensions to fit at the end of our counters when not in use and added a drop leaf to give us almost 4 additional feet of butcher block counter top when we need it. I used scrap lumber that I had for the cabinet and had an extra drawer handle that matches our kitchen cabinets but bought the butcher block, locking casters, drawer slide and hardware for the legs. Also, the weight of the butcher block makes it want to tip when it's away from the cabinet with the drop leaf down so I added a lead counter weight inside the drawer.
Tue, 04/27/2021 - 18:09
I am so interested in doing this, but would like more details on how the drop leaf was constructed. Would it be possible to get more information?
In reply to I am so interested in doing… by haartd
Sat, 07/24/2021 - 16:59
Sure! I used a 4 foot butcher block and cut it down. The horizontal part is 13 1/2" and the drop leaf part is 32 1/8" attached with a piano hinge. The legs need to be cut and hinged to fit when folded up. This one is made so that the drop leaf fits right under the overhang of the kitchen countertop that it is next to so it's snug against the cabinet and not an issue but, if you want it to be freestanding, the weight of the butcher block will pull it over if you don't weight the cabinet down with something as well. I got a 5 pound lead bar from Amazon in case we need to use it somewhere else. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
One day project with hubby! Wanted a wood set, but couldn’t find a reasonable price. Bought tools, wood, supplies, and cushions for under the cost of one online!
My first truly functional build! I love how it turned out, but even more importantly my kids are loving it - we are literally using it for every possible meal and snack right now. Perfect summer project, and bonus - we get to keep all the eating messes outside!
A frame chicken coop with a few modifications- metal roof, insulation and slightly larger second floor.
By Chrystal
I got this Idea from Sausha's washer dryer pedestal post. Before then i didnt know people even built pedestals for their washer and dryer. Just purchased new front load washer and dryer and they wanted 250 bucks extra for each pedestal. That is 500 bucks and is absolutely rediculous. So i opted out of those and thought to myself maybe I can build something instead. So I began my search online and stumbled across this post which seems to be the most popular pedestal build on the web. I think sausha's build is fantastic and absolutely beautiful though I went another way with mine.
I tend to like to overbuild things. Especially in this case, seeing as the washer weighs a beastly 200 pounds by itself. I figured with clothes and water it would be about 235 pounds just for the washer. I noticed that with the aluminum drawer pedestals that you can purchse with the washer and dryer the support is only where the legs from the washer and dryer will sit. That was all I needed to get on my way. Purchased some regular old douglas fir 2x4's, 4x4's, and a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4 inch plywood. I opted to use fence post brackets to tie everything together because I didnt feel like driller pocket holes in each 2x4 when you were not going to see them once its all said and done. The fence brackets are not structural so they lack ridgidity untill you tie everything together with the legs, slats, and top. Cut the top from the 3/4 plywood sheet and used the left over plywood to cover the front and the sides. I left the back open as it is not seen anyway.
Total size of the pedestal is 56" wide x 31" deep x 12 3/4 inches tall, but you can build it as wide, deep or as tall as you need it. When i was done putting it together. I tested it by jumping up and down on it and I weigh 230 pounds. So this thing is quite strong. I finished it up by covering the edges where the plywood meet with Edge moulding and the bottom with baseboard to match my laundry room. I used Behr premium plus ultra paint on most of it and, behr alkyd paint for the baseboards. Gave the top a couple coats of General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane. Which isnt neccessary but I opted to do so because of the weight of the washer and dryer and the General Finishes High performance dries harder than most other polys that I have used. I only used it on the top though.
Taking into account that I used the paint and baseboards left over from renovating my laundry room. This project cost about 150 bucks. 200 if you have to purchase the paint and moulding. Quite easy to do and though I made the cutes I needed with my table saw. This can be done with a circular saw and a drill. No exotic tools are needed. Will post finished pictures when my washing machine and dryer are delivered on friday and they are sitting on top of the pedestal.
Living on a small city plot, this vertical ladder planter was just what I was looking for to grow my herbs and flowers. I am not an experienced builder but the plans were easy to follow. It didn't take me much time at all to complete this project. Now I am looking forward to fresh herbs and flowers all summer.
Plan modified to be built on stringers due to hight.
Fri, 07/07/2023 - 15:22
Do you have an illustration or instructions on the exact modifications you used for this project?
This was my biggest build yet and these plans along with being able to see a few brag posts with modicifactions made this project less intimidating. I extended the coop in order to add a walk in door. The drop down doors on both sides will give plenty of access and help with cleaning. I've added door latches to all the doors since putting it in place. My dad provided the cedar so that greatly reduced my costs. This project took about six days to complete. The fun part was getting it out of my carport : ) This was built for my daughter's chickens and she is thrilled with it. So am I! Thanks for the plans Ana!
This is a mashup of several plans, combined into one big, bad ass, office desk. I've had a little experience years ago in high school woodworking classes, but haven't really built much since. This reminded me how much I enjoy working with wood. So rewarding to be typing this message at my new office desk!
Wed, 08/19/2020 - 06:25
This is amazing! So amazing could I ask you to share with me what prices from the collection of plans you used and how? I’m looking at your pic trying to figure out how to incorporate the plans you used. I want to build one for myself lol fantastic job!!!!
Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)
Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12
I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!
Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05
Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"
Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks
Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33
Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)
Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29
Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?
Thu, 12/03/2015 - 06:11
Did you ever find out if you can leave off the back panel?
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35
Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58
This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.
Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17
Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around. That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items. Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards. I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.
Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23
Hello,
I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?
Thank you for all the interesting posts.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:55
The original step-by-step plans are found on Ana-White:
http://www.ana-white.com/2011/01/sausha%E2%80%99s-washerdryer-pedestals
These were so easy to make. I actually messed up on the smaller one and used the 2x4's on the legs. By the time I realized it, I had to use the 2x3's on the top. I just used more of them. It still turned out great. My wife had me make another one for an empty space we had. I used the same basic layout and just modified my length and width. Thanks for the great plans.
We have a frosty faced blind girl and an aging tri-pawed that we wanted to be able to continue snuggling with us so we adapted the Farmhouse Bed with Storage to make it a king size. We made the drawer boxes deeper which allowed us to get rid of our dresser to create more space in our room. And we added a flight of stairs for the pups.
Fri, 12/30/2022 - 07:53
This is exactly what I’m looking for! Perfect for our dogs. Although, I wonder if a ramp would work or if it would be too steep? Hmmm
I found these plans online and was just waiting for the kids' grandpa to come out and build it. Could be built in one afternoon (depending on how many trips to your local Home Depot, and availability of the correct tools)
Modifications from original plan:
6x6 instead of 4x4
Brackets to hold patio umbrella for shade
Added seat gussets for additional support
Added "wooden flange" around bottom of box to run lawnmower on
One additional center back support on each bench
One centered handle (instead of a handle on each end)
Stapled landscape weed barrier fabric onto the bottom
Sanded all exposed edges
Materials:
4@2x10x8'
12@1x6x6'
2@2x6x12'
8 hinges
2 handles
3 1/2" decking screws (for attaching 2"x boards)
1 5/8" decking screws (for attaching 1"x boards)
2+ 1 1/4" 2-hole straps for metal conduit (for attaching patio umbrella*)
*Our patio umbrella pole was 1 1/2" diameter, but 1 1/2" straps had too much play, so we used 1 1/4" straps and misc flat washers to adjust the snugness to the pole
Cut lengths:
2@2x10 cut to 72" (long sides of the box)
2@2x10 cut to 69" (short sides of the box)
Cut one each of the following out of a 12 footer:
2@2x6 cut to 75" (long side "flange")
2@2x6 cut to 64" (short side "flange")
No cuts were made to the 12 1x6's
Used one leftover 2' from the 2x8x10's ripped in half cut to 11.5" for arm rests
Used two leftover 2' sections from the 2x8x10's ripped in half cut to 21" for back supports
Used the last 2' cutoff to make two seat gussets (cut about 9 1/2" off and then ripped it at 45 degrees)
Used the remaining piece (ripped in half length-ways) to attach to the center of the backrest for additional support and as the attachment point for our handles
We decided to do one handle in the center of the backrest so one reasonably strong adult could open the lid
The bottom "flange" was assembled with the box upside down. Basically a 2x6 screwed to the bottom edge of the box allowing 1 1/2" overhang all the way around
After making cuts, but before assembly, we recommend using a quarter-sheet pad sander (or similar) with 60 grit paper to break all of the edges and round over any ends or corners that will be in contact with sandbox users
Followed other general assembly instructions
My father and I made this awesome poolside towel cabinet using the Benchmark Cabinet plans. A super easy 1 day build and it looks amazing on the patio. Bring on the pool weather!
Easy to build, easy to customize, perfect for totes
Comments
Ana White Admin
Thu, 08/03/2023 - 09:27
Looks comfortable!
Great job, love the finish! Thanks for sharing.