Community Brag Posts

Cube bookcases

As part of my daughter's big 8th birthday bedroom re-do, I knew she needed some new storage for books and...er...stuff. You know how kids accumulate little scraps of paper, photos, tiny toys. I can't stand to see that kind of stuff lying around, so these cube bookshelves seemed like a great solution for the problem. The canvas "drawers" are from Target and were not expensive. I followed Ana's Six Cube Bookshelf plans very closely with two exceptions. First, I shortened the legs an inch to ensure that the units would be short enough to fit under the bedroom window. Second, I added an overhanging 1/4" MDF panel to the top of each bookcase and trimmed out the bottom of the panel with cove molding. The rest of the wood used was solid pine. I'm now working on building a third unit for my other daughter's room. This time I was smart enough to finish the insides of the cubes before putting the whole bookcase together. Getting into those corners once the project is complete is time consuming and difficult. Painting the insides of the boards ahead of time has proven to be much simpler.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Sherwin-Williams ProClassic in semi-gloss followed by satin Minwax Polycrylic.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Washer/Dryer Platform Pedestal

Submitted by Dimarc67 on Fri, 04/17/2015 - 10:45

 

THE MOTIVATION
After a recent washer outage (that I was ultimately able to repair myself), my wife and I talked about eventually replacing our front-loading washer/dryer set.  One of the bullets I hate biting is paying the exhorbitant prices for the matching pedestals for new washer/dryer sets.

Having just bought a good set of cordless powertools, and having watched my father when I was a kid build countless household fixtures, window dressings, furniture pieces, etc., I decided to try my hand and construct a permanent platform for our current washer/dryer set, thereby eliminating the need to ever buy manufacturer pedestals again.

The existing pedestals were a standard 15" high, with a storage drawer, which we felt was still not high enough for comfort.  And, the washer pedestal drawer was entirely inaccessibl due to the 2" walls on the washer drain pan, so its drawer was totally useless, wasted space.

And, lastly, we really wanted more space for clothes baskets full of laundry, which we generally stacked (full and haphazardly) on top of the machines.

 

THE CHALLENGES
The largest challenges were mainly logistics, and gravity.  The washer/dryer would have to be unavailable for at least 2-3 days while they sat disconnected in the next room waiting for their new home.  So I coordinated with the family so they'd know when they needed to have their laundry done, or tough it out until I was done.

There was no way to know for sure what the drain connection for the washer pan looked like until I got the washer out.  So it was a small gamble that I'd be able to get the parts needed to extend the drain pipe up to the new platform right when I was ready for them.  Fortunately, this was no issue at all.

The biggest challenge turned out to be toward the end when it came time to lift our 230-lb. washer onto the new platform.  I seriously considered disassembling the washer to the point that I could remove its molded concrete counter-weights, but instead (and arguably stupidly) elected to use a large hydraulic car jack to raise the washer.  This ultimately worked, but I have to STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST trying this.

 

THE SPACE
Our laundry room is also the "mud room" between our kitchen and the garage.  It is only large enough for the two machines, and the walk way between the two doors--in total, about 70.5" square.  Building the platform from wall-to-wall made the most sense, and minimized framing by fastening edge framing directly to the wall studs. 

 

THE PLAN
Pretty basic:  2x4's all around for the edge framing--back and sides fastened directly to the wall studs, and front 2x4 supported by two, notched 4x4 legs.  3/4" plywood for the subsurface, and 1/4" laminate faux-wood flooring on top (left over from reflooring, so it matches the floor below).  Bore holes for the washer pan drain and the dryer vent.  1" quarter-round molding on the sides, and 5.5" face piece flush with the top of the molding across the front (spare lauan I had looks perfect).  I also made a point of putting the machines on the platform before the face piece since it might have been in the way or damaged.

Anyone will tell you that it's best to at least sketch out what you want to do so you can minimize surprises, forgotten parts, etc.  I, of course, did virtually none of that, and made several course changes and corrections along the way.  For this project, I was lucky that I didn't need to backtrack at any point, and probably won't learn this lesson any time soon anyway.  However, you SHOULD.

 

TAKE-AWAYS
The main mistake I made was while gathering the platform dimensions for cutting the plywood.  It was only blind luck that kept me from having to do it more than once (and having to buy more than one 4x8 sheet).  I know that it's actually very unlikely that two adjacent walls are perfectly square, so I made a point to measure the width between the walls at the back and at the front--and, sure enough, found a 1/8" difference--wider at the front.  But when I measured and marked the plywood for cutting, I measured both distances from the precut edge, and then cut.  By doing this, I inadvertently assumed that one of the back corners was perfectly square. 

What I should have done was used a carpenter's square in each back corner to extend a square line from the back edge to the front, and then measured from the square lines to their respective side wall.  This would have accounted for neither back corner being square.

Fortunately, my mistake wasn't big enough to keep the plywood from fitting, but it was very, VERY close.

 

GIDDY
I honestly couldn't be happier with the finished project (or more smug).  We've raised the washer/dryer 9" higher than they were (24" off the floor), and we now have basket storage underneath all the way across.  I placed two 24" plastic cabinets on top, which still leaves room for the detergent right over the soap inlet on the washer.

And, most importantly, I got to use every powertool I own.  Kinda beats "the quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog" thing, huh?

 

Estimated Cost
Most of my project made use of spare lumber and materials I've had on hand forever. The 4x8 sheet of plywood was about $30 at Home Depot.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Natural. No finishing, staining, or painting. Lauan has a natural stained oak coloring, so it was perfect for the facing. (A soft wood, Lauan--"lao-AHN", also sometimes called "Philippine Mahogany" simply for the darker color--used to be as readily available as pine, but I haven't seen it in stores for many years.)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Murphy Bed

Submitted by Newfey on Fri, 07/19/2013 - 14:59

This is a Murphy Bed that I made for my daughter Alicia for their getaway home at Canadian Lakes, MI. Due to limited space i had to make it horizontal instead of the normal way of being vertical. It really comes in handy and takes up very little space.

Finish Used
Red paint mixed with Baking Soda
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

JoanneS

Fri, 07/19/2013 - 15:17

Looks great! Love the color and the trims you used. Where did you find your hinge hardware? PS- How did you like the baking soda paint? I've tried ASCP which was good but very pricey, and last time made my own with some plaster of paris. Your finish is lovely.

Newfey

Sat, 07/20/2013 - 18:47

I bought the spring hardware on line. I can't take the credit for the paint as my daughter did that part. She loves the way that the baking soda and paint covers everything and it is a whole lot less expensive than buying the commercial stuff.

Garage shelf and work bench

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 08/10/2022 - 12:29

Used the plans from attached garage shelving to make a 10 ft, 24 inch wide shelf then used similar idea for workbench which I still need to put doors on. I love it! Such an easy plan!

Comments

Reclaimed Wood Look Bedside Table

Submitted by PhilCo on Sun, 11/29/2015 - 12:08

Having recently completed the Californian King size Bed, I needed matching bedside tables, these were an obvious choice, but due to the size of our bedroom, I had to downsize on the plan. Although I kept to the spirit of the plan, I made a few changes, other than just size. I made up the table tops and side panels, prior to assembly, much as I did with the bed, I pocket holed and glued the planks together to ensure they stay that way. I also decided to use hardwood runners, and not buy metal slides, because I had plenty of mahogany scrap, and the drawers are small, so it was easy to do. The drawer knobs were obviously bought, but to ensure they never come off, which is usually my problem with store bought knobs, I fixed them to the drawer face, using epoxy to glue the knob to the bolt, before attaching to the drawer carcase. I built these from pine and used a matt oak varnish to match the bed. The full build and more photos are on my Blog

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Matt Oak Varnish
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Farmhouse Chairs

I found a picture of this style of chairs, and I really wanted to make them for my table. I created my own plans and adjusted them until they were perfect. I’ve since made several sets of chairs for other people including this set of 6. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$25
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
After sanding down the chairs, I apply a coat of Preston by minwax. To get the color I wipe on the stain gunstock by winwax. After letting it dry for about an hour, I then wipe on a coat of espresso stain. For the finish, I apply coats of a gloss polyurethane by Minwax.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Changing table

Submitted by markmart74 on Thu, 07/07/2016 - 03:40

With the arrival of our first baby in 10 days,  the wife wanted a changing table. My only vision of a changing table was the ones in public restrooms. With the help of Google, I came across all the great diy ideas on this site. I combined 3 plans into 1 and came up with this. The project took 2 days to build. Next step is to prime and paint. 

Estimated Cost
90 - 100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Primer and paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

DIY Farmhouse Dollhouse

This is for my daughter’s 3rd birthday. I decopaged the walls and floor with patterned paper before assembling. I thought it would be easier.

I also didn’t bother with the middle ‘front’ door. The dollhouse in the example photos look beautiful from the outside, but kids don’t really play with the outside of the houses. So I made the windows a little bit bigger.

The windows and doors both looked terrible. My first time using a jigsaw was not a success. So I used tiny dowels for the trim around the door and craft sticks on the inside.

The last thing I need to do is put some lights in it. I ordered some fairy lights on amazon. I plan to use another dowel that I’m hoping I can wrap with the fairy lights and then wedge in the back on the ‘ceiling’ on the first floor and then Velcro the switch to the side of the house. It won’t look professional or anything, but being able to turn the lights on and off will be very fun.

Casey

Built from Plan(s)

Raised Bed Garden Mother's Day Present

My 15 year old daughter and I built this as a Mother's Day gift. We used basic ideas from plan, but while looking for wood we came across stair treads and decking posts that we thought would work. We were very happy with the results. This thing is very solid and much better quality than the more expensive kits you can buy.

Estimated Cost
$130 plus plants and dirt
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Short version of cedar shed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 05/16/2020 - 14:35

We wanted a shorter version, so that it would hide behind this fence. I just needed somewhere to store lawnmower, wheelbarrow, and a few yard supplies. I started putting the roof on hinges, but the gas struts couldn't support the 170 pound roof. So it's fixed in place (stronger structure anyway). That's why I went with 2x4's for the framed walls instead of 2x2's.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
600
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Not yet finished, will get to that.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Storage Dining Bench

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 03/22/2024 - 07:34

Kitchen dining bench with storage. Due to the plugs being in an awkward position, I opted to build this bench with a facade as opposed to adding a back and sides. This also meant it had to be panelled in situ which was a fun challenge! It has piano hinges as well as soft close pistons making for a great storage bench that is in keeping with the rest of our kitchen.

Basement Storage Shelves

Submitted by Eddie A on Sun, 08/30/2020 - 22:59

We just moved into a new home and had a huge open storage area in the unfinished portion of our basement and we’ve got a lot of stuff so we needed to make the best use of that space and these shelves deliver big time. This shelf is 12’ long by 2’ deep with 2 each 24” and 18” tall shelves. Really simple construction and I got to use my Kreg HD jig for the first time on the cleats so these bad boys are SOLID! My wife love this one so much I’m building another one in the opposite side of the wall with all 4 shelves at 18” tall.

Estimated Cost
150
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Garage Shelves - Freestanding (Modified)

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 09/15/2020 - 20:45

First project ever! I have been planning to build this for at least a year, and I finally did it! I had to modify the plan to fit my space, but it worked out well. They cut the wood for me at the store, so I did not make any cuts myself, just assembled all of the pieces together. I used all 2x4s, 8' and 10', cut down to my measurements. I did not finish the shelves since it is just for the garage, but I did sand rough board edges and some of the faces. I just used an palm sander and coarse sandpaper (80 grit). Please double check all measurements and lists because I forgot to add my shorter shelf supports to the list and had to go back to the store. I also forgot to add the width of the top shelf to those two shorter supports, so the shelf boards are resting on the top instead of nestled into the supports. It turned out not to be a functional problem, but a good lesson to learn. I also learned to make sure my driver battery is charged fully before starting - that took a large chunk out of my first day building and I had to finish the next day. My husband helped with some lifting and holding, but I mostly did this on my own in one weekend, so you CAN do it! Don't wait like I did - it is soooooooo useful and it looks great! All of my friends are really impressed and it feels so good to have made something like this! Thank you Ana!!

Estimated Cost
$180
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
N/A
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Simplest Stool

Submitted by heksa on Thu, 02/26/2015 - 14:43

This was not my first woodworking project, but first where I had to figure out angles and bevels. So I'm pretty excited that all the pieces turned into stable stools.

Cutting wood and putting stools together took about an hour or two each .... filling kreg jigs holes and staining took a few weekends though. 

 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$10 per stool
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Classic Gray stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Turning the Loft Bed into a Bunk Bed

Submitted by mommabutts on Thu, 04/14/2011 - 10:20

We adapted the loft bed plans so we could put our sons' current twin bed underneath it to make "bunk" beds for our boys.  It turned out perfectly!  The loft is very sturdy, even with 2 adults and a child on the top bed.

We made it taller and longer, and added an additional row of 1x8s to increase stability.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Polyshades
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Outdoor Sectional

Submitted by Jehaws on Fri, 06/26/2015 - 19:05

I made the cushions and pillows myself using shower curtains as a cheap and water-resistant fabric alternative. I also ordered the foam and pillow forms on-line. This was a great Father's Day project completed with help from my son and husband. Great plans!

Estimated Cost
$300.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

My First Project: Spinning DVD Rack

Submitted by Dan Y. on Sat, 07/13/2013 - 20:19

I was looking online for a spinning DVD rack to buy when I stumbled across a picture of a custom built rack. I decided to give it a try and this is the result. This is the first project I've done outside of basic shelves and it was a great learning experience. The overall fit and finish isn't quite where I'd like it to be but overall I think it turned out pretty well. I was able to find a 12" lazy Susan at a hardware store that supports over 300lbs and worked perfectly for this project.

I used pocket holes for the shelves, finishing nails for the top and screws for the bottom and lazy Susan. I also used pocket holes to attach the shelf backs and hid them behind the shelves. One thing I definitely won't use next time is spray paint/enamel. The finish isn't nearly as nice as I wanted and it cost far more than I was expecting.

This is also my first time using SketchUp and I'm really impressed with it. I've uploaded a copy of the plans.

Criticism and suggestions are appreciated.

-Dan

Estimated Cost
$170
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Rust-Oleum Universal Satin Spray Paint - Espresso Brown
Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Val Manchuk

Sun, 07/14/2013 - 11:35

I like this spinning DVD unit! Coincidentally, I just finished using spray enamel to redo some cupboard door handles. It's horrible stuff! I ended up sanding it off, and doing it over in flat black. I roughed up the edges with 180 grit to antique them a bit. Looks much better!

Cedar Fence Board Planter Box

Submitted by iowachap on Sat, 03/15/2014 - 19:40

Using Ana's 10 dollar raised garden planter box idea, I made my own using the cedar fence boards and then used 2 x 3 x 8 studs for the L corner supports and mid center support along with top rail. This photo is the first 3, I will have a total of 6 boxes. Will post more as I progress.

Estimated Cost
20 to 25 dollars per box
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
I used 6 fence boards, 2 for each side of the 6' long runs, and 1 for each short 3' section cut in half.

I got the 6' x 5 1/2 " x 5/8 " cedar fence boards at the orange box

I used 2 x 3 x 8 boards for the corners the middle support and the top rail. I got these at the blue box

I used 2 " and 2 1/2" exterior star bit screws.

NOTE: I pre drilled holes in the fence boards and screwed all the boards to the L corner sections from the inside out, so the screws are on the inside of the box, they did not poke through the 2 x 3 boards.

Instead of trying to measure how far off the side of the board I needed to go to match the vertical 2 x 3 boards, I just cut 10 11 inch long 2 x3 sections, and then used the 2 1/2" screws and made 4 L corner pieces the shorter side I screwed the short 3 foot length fence boards too, once I had both my short sections screwed to the L corner sections, I then stood one up and screwed 2 of the 6' length boards to the L corner section. Then the other side.

Once all 4 walls were done, I would then measure 3' in the middle of the 6' long side runs, and put in an additional 2 x 3 x 11" again screwed from the inside of the box out.

Now that all the 2 x 3 x 11" L corners and side support sections were connected to the fence boards I then cut 76 1/4" 2 x3 boards one for each length run, and then 2 26" 2 x 3 sections that were all cut on 45 degree angle to complete the top rail.
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project
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