Community Brag Posts

A couple of years ago I built the farmhouse dining table with matching bench, so when I showed my wife a picture of the Corona Coffee Table, she was all about it.  I lengthened the coffee table by about 6"-8" inches to fit our space better.  The entire table is yellow pine.  I used 2x6 for the top. Ordered the legs from Osborne, $30 each plus shipping (searched for other supplier to compare pricing, but had no luck finding that leg anywhere else).  For aprons I used 1x4.  Instead of plywood for the base I used 1x4 furring boards (the furring boards were only aprox. $1.50 each for 1"x4"x6', and they had rounded edges which helped add more texture when completed). For the middle and end pieces of the base I use 1x6.   Assembly was completed using wood glue and the Kreg Jig for pocket holes.  Top was stained using an old t-shirt with aprox. 5 coats of Early American stain,  2 coats of Jacobean, then 2 coats semi-gloss poly spray.  Base finished with 2 coats of Spa White by Amy Howard chalk paint (Annie Sloan competitor sold at Ace Hardware, seems to work the same, still costs around $30+ per quart).  At this point  my wife took over. She roughed up the base with my sander, applied the clear wax that protects the chalk paint, then she went back over the sanded edges with brown wax to complete the aging.     

I built a breakfast bar into an existing wall shared between our kitchen and living room. I built it on the taller side of average since I wanted to have room to install new electrical outlets above the counter on the kitchen side. After the project was done we went to buy bar stools to use with the new bar and found that even the "tall" stools were too short to work. Research into extra tall stools showed that what we needed was going to $400-600 each! Luckily my wife found these stools on your site and we were able to make three of them for around $115. Also, they are much sturdier than anything we looked at to buy.

Used square laundry baskets instead of regular rectangular baskets. The square ones aren't as deep but are a bit taller so I had to modify the plans. I added a backsplash and some wooden tags to the baskets to designate them for certain colors. I also added some decorative trim and finished the bottom in a gray stain and used white chalk paint for the top.

After discovering a leak, we are in the process of a master bathroom/bedroom remodel. In the bedroom, we had replaced all of the windows, painted and installed crown moulding with rope lighting in the bedroom. Then we looked at our closet doors leading to our walk-in closet, and realized they really needed to go to. They were heavy, mirrored with brass trim and regularly would jump off their track. Unfortunately the leak had caused more damage than we originally thought, and our remodel had expanded to replacing two exterior walls as well so we were over budget. Just to get an idea of how much it would cost to buy new doors, I got online and thankfully I found these plans. Although I used to watch my Grandfather build things in his wood shop, I had never actually built something all by myself. My contractor let me use his Kreg Jig and miter saw. After purchasing the wood, I quickly put together the door frames. Since we were on a strict budget for these doors, I decided to use bead board instead of glass. I bought a 4 x 8 sheet of beadboard and had the store rip it in half. I then attached it to the back of the doors with small wood screws and glue. I painted the doors with white gloss trim paint to match the other doors in the room. Since my closet is a walk-in closet, I did paint both sides. My closet entrance had no trim, so used a piece of moulding and attached it to the bypass door track. We are not finished with the flooring or baseboards yet, but once complete we will be installing guides along the bottom.

I mostly followed Ana's plans but used 1 5/8 screws and had a problem with wood splitting so for the ceder I used a finish nailer instread which worked great. I also painted before nailing the ceder pieces so they would really stand out and I also cut a few inches off the front ceder piece as I think 5.5in is too high and covers too much of the entrance. 

I have built some other stuff before, but not with paint and sanding and such. It was definitely a great learning project. There are imperfections, but it's a toy, so kids will be having fun and that is all that matters.

I've been wanting to build this swing for a year now, and finally it's completed.  I LOVE it!  The modern design is perfect for our front porch as our home is more of a contemporary style.  It was the first project I've done using the Kreg Jig Kit, which is AWE-SOME!    

I modified the plan a bit:  I made the swing 52" long, and used 1x4's for the back support instead of 2x4's.  I also upgraded the top and back 1x4's and 1x6's to poplar wood so the grain would be finer.  The plan was simple to build.  Thank you for your blog and providing plans!  There are other things on your site that I look forward to making.

THE MOTIVATION
After a recent washer outage (that I was ultimately able to repair myself), my wife and I talked about eventually replacing our front-loading washer/dryer set.  One of the bullets I hate biting is paying the exhorbitant prices for the matching pedestals for new washer/dryer sets.

Having just bought a good set of cordless powertools, and having watched my father when I was a kid build countless household fixtures, window dressings, furniture pieces, etc., I decided to try my hand and construct a permanent platform for our current washer/dryer set, thereby eliminating the need to ever buy manufacturer pedestals again.

The existing pedestals were a standard 15" high, with a storage drawer, which we felt was still not high enough for comfort.  And, the washer pedestal drawer was entirely inaccessibl due to the 2" walls on the washer drain pan, so its drawer was totally useless, wasted space.

And, lastly, we really wanted more space for clothes baskets full of laundry, which we generally stacked (full and haphazardly) on top of the machines.

THE CHALLENGES
The largest challenges were mainly logistics, and gravity.  The washer/dryer would have to be unavailable for at least 2-3 days while they sat disconnected in the next room waiting for their new home.  So I coordinated with the family so they'd know when they needed to have their laundry done, or tough it out until I was done.

There was no way to know for sure what the drain connection for the washer pan looked like until I got the washer out.  So it was a small gamble that I'd be able to get the parts needed to extend the drain pipe up to the new platform right when I was ready for them.  Fortunately, this was no issue at all.

The biggest challenge turned out to be toward the end when it came time to lift our 230-lb. washer onto the new platform.  I seriously considered disassembling the washer to the point that I could remove its molded concrete counter-weights, but instead (and arguably stupidly) elected to use a large hydraulic car jack to raise the washer.  This ultimately worked, but I have to STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST trying this.

THE SPACE
Our laundry room is also the "mud room" between our kitchen and the garage.  It is only large enough for the two machines, and the walk way between the two doors--in total, about 70.5" square.  Building the platform from wall-to-wall made the most sense, and minimized framing by fastening edge framing directly to the wall studs. 

THE PLAN
Pretty basic:  2x4's all around for the edge framing--back and sides fastened directly to the wall studs, and front 2x4 supported by two, notched 4x4 legs.  3/4" plywood for the subsurface, and 1/4" laminate faux-wood flooring on top (left over from reflooring, so it matches the floor below).  Bore holes for the washer pan drain and the dryer vent.  1" quarter-round molding on the sides, and 5.5" face piece flush with the top of the molding across the front (spare lauan I had looks perfect).  I also made a point of putting the machines on the platform before the face piece since it might have been in the way or damaged.

Anyone will tell you that it's best to at least sketch out what you want to do so you can minimize surprises, forgotten parts, etc.  I, of course, did virtually none of that, and made several course changes and corrections along the way.  For this project, I was lucky that I didn't need to backtrack at any point, and probably won't learn this lesson any time soon anyway.  However, you SHOULD.

TAKE-AWAYS
The main mistake I made was while gathering the platform dimensions for cutting the plywood.  It was only blind luck that kept me from having to do it more than once (and having to buy more than one 4x8 sheet).  I know that it's actually very unlikely that two adjacent walls are perfectly square, so I made a point to measure the width between the walls at the back and at the front--and, sure enough, found a 1/8" difference--wider at the front.  But when I measured and marked the plywood for cutting, I measured both distances from the precut edge, and then cut.  By doing this, I inadvertently assumed that one of the back corners was perfectly square. 

What I should have done was used a carpenter's square in each back corner to extend a square line from the back edge to the front, and then measured from the square lines to their respective side wall.  This would have accounted for neither back corner being square.

Fortunately, my mistake wasn't big enough to keep the plywood from fitting, but it was very, VERY close.

GIDDY
I honestly couldn't be happier with the finished project (or more smug).  We've raised the washer/dryer 9" higher than they were (24" off the floor), and we now have basket storage underneath all the way across.  I placed two 24" plastic cabinets on top, which still leaves room for the detergent right over the soap inlet on the washer.

And, most importantly, I got to use every powertool I own.  Kinda beats "the quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog" thing, huh?

I modified the plans slightly to go taller so it could fit a standard propane tank. I also added a hinged lid based on an image I found on Pinterest that did something very similar. I still need to sand and stain it next weekend.

Like others, I had a little trouble keeping the fence planks from splitting when screwing them to the 2x2 legs, since there was about an 1/8” gap between. I tried to find some scrap to fill in the gap and didn’t overtighten the screws. The lid was made entirely of 1x3”.

I modifed the Classic Bunk Bed and Cubby designs to create a convertible twin over full bunk bed. The bottom full-sized bunk can be rotated to be parallel to the wall (when my son sleeps there) or perpendicular to the wall (for when we have guests so they don't have to climb over one another). Changes I made were:

- I moved the ladder to the end of the bed to make room for the full-sized mattress.
- I added 1x2 treads to the ladder to make it easier on the feet.
- I raised the height of the top bunk. Finished height of the bed is 68" to add head room on the bottom bunk for taller people.
- I built 2 custom cubbies (full dimensions of each 37.5" x ~13.5" x 11.5") to support the added width of the full-sized bottom bunk. These cubbies can also be rotated to support the mattress in the perpendicular position for use as a guest bed (see pictures).
- I built an additional support that fits onto the back of each of the cubbies when they are turned to support the perpendicular guest bed (see pictures).
- I changed the end support rails for the bottom bunk to 1x12s that I painted to match the bed to be used as night stands when the bed is rotated to be a guest bed (see pictures).
- I used wood thread inserts and 1/4"-20 connector bolts (from Fastenal) to assemble the bed, so it would be easy to disassemble and reassemble.

Funny story - When we went to move it to the second story bedroom from the garage where I had finished it, the long sides wouldn't fit up our stairs!!! Our stairs have a tight 90 degree turn partway up. After all the hours I put in building and finishing it, I almost cried! Fortunately after using a straight edge blade to carefully cut through the paint, we unscrewed the upper most rail and were able to just barely get it up our stairs. I was so thankful I hadn't glued those boards on!