Community Brag Posts

I pretty much followed the original plans.  I added a chamfer on the outside corners of the posts and on the top boards on the head and foot boards.  I also stained these to match the nightstands.  Since I used a foam mattress, i built a platform by gluing/screwing a 2x4 inside the side rails.  Then I set 1x6s on the 2x4 to support the mattress.  

I use the free version of Sketchup to design the bed and estimate materials needed.  

Lessons learned

• Take extra time to figure out how to connect the side rails to the head and foot boards.  I thought i could use a sliding lock but this wouldn't work for my design.  I improvised using 3x7 tie plates and screwed the two components together.  For the headboard, I lined the 2x4 with the inside headboard post.  For the footboard, I bent the tie plate 90 degrees and screwed the 2x4 to the footboard.  It worked very well.
• I would recommend chamfering the outside top of the side rails.  I didn't and my wife complains that she  bumps her shins on it. 
• Top boards are 1x5s, which in my are are only sold at home depot.  The other wood is readily available.

It's not that difficult of a project.  It is time consuming, though.

Built three 10 dollar ledges of fir for a tall, awkward area over our stairs. 3.5, 4.5, and 6 feet long. Looks great and finally can make use of that space. I initially bought red oak but decided it was too heavy (and too expensive at $90). Still need to putty the screw holes.

We eventually will build the rest of the bed, but for now we needed a headboard. Hubby helped me with this one, since it was large, I loved having an extra pair of hands. This headboard is reversible, so if our tastes change, we can unbolt it and flip it over to the side that is just stained and polyurethane. Pretty neat! This headboard is extra tall, because we have our bed frame up on risers, and we wanted a picture shelf but didn't want it interfering when we sat up in bed to read or what-not. Hubby used the router to make grooves in the top before we attached it, so our pictures wouldn't be crashing down on our head! Our metal bed frame comes just shy of the outer edge of the legs of the headboard, so when we build the rest of the bed, the side rails will meet the edge exactly. We placed the headboard behind the bed frame to mark where to drill the bolt holes and attached the headboard to the frame with 4 inch long, quarter inch wide bolts with washers and nuts. Two on each side.

This is the nightly sleeper for our 6yo (queen) and 4yo (twin) boys, but we have in-laws who visit from out of town frequently and we also wanted a place to allow them to be comfortable as couples.

To accomodate adult headroom on the queen, I raised the entire loft 7" (72" high) and to fit the queen beneath, I had to lengthen the loft rails by 9" (84" long). To fill the resulting gap, I just used some 39" scraps of 2x4 and 2x6 overlapped to create a 4x10 landing which actually ended up a cool addition since it gives the kids a spot lower than the mattress to make the transition from the ladder to the mattress. It also has given us adults a spot to sit off the mattress while comforting them to sleep when needed, so we don't end up waking them when we leave.

I based the height of the queen legs (made four of them) off the size of a standard storage tote, which was ~13". We can fit 12-16 totes of clothes or other random storage under the bed as a result. The queen frame was just a simple 64"x84" rectangle out of 2x6s with 7 2x4s used as crossbeams to hold the mattress.

Note on the mattresses - these 8" memory foam mattresses are just as comfortable as our expensive name brand king mattress, but MUCH cheaper!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-8-inch-Memory-Foam-Mattress-Multiple-Sizes/47826185

Despite raising the loft, I kept the height of the stair platform the same, but just added a second 'ladder' rung to get up to the loft (refer back to the 4x10 landing spot on the loft). To keep with the using available storage space theme, instead of attaching the stairs permanently, I used 1"x4" hinges to that we could swing the stairs up and put 4 more storage totes under there. (However, we quickly found that the kids liked that area as a 'fort', so we've left it open for their use.)

In the picture, you'll note there are four treads/steps on the stairs because I thought to myself "little feet, little steps" would be better. I soon learned that the littles are more than capable of using adult sized steps while adults nearly killed themselves coming down the little feet, little steps. As such, I ended up removing one of the middle steps and moving the new singular middle to a spot between the other two. Much better, stay with 3 steps.

While the queen can stand alone, I still attached it to the 'legs' of the loft so that our rambunctious boys didn't 'sweep the leg' and bring the whole thing down on themselves while under it.

Loved making this shelf!

So I followed the plan except I tried to use more pocket hole screws. I managed to use them for all parts except the seat and back. Looking at them I see how I can use them for those areas too ( just a little pre planning next time)
I’m using Behr Wedgwood waterproofing stain and sealer to complete the project.
I love all your plans and can’t wait for my next project.

I had a bunch of my old skis that I had used as a display wall in my chalet that I needed to do something with, and this was a perfect solution!

I gave away my outdoor furniture in need of something for that space.  This plan is perfect with added outdoor matress and Curtains so I can lay down on the summer.

I enjoyed making these projects for my 6 year old for Christmas. Warning: make cuts as you build. Even though I bought standard board sizes, my finished measurements did not all match cut list. Just keep measuring as you assemble and make cuts and small changes as needed. A 1x3 can be anywhere from 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 wide for example. I finished with primer and two coats of Benjamin Moore Advance semigloss Cloud White on both projects. I used 2 inch high density foam for the mattress. The quilt is pieced from 2 1/2 inch squares. The small pillows are 3 inch square finished. The large pillows are 4x7 approximately. The cake stand is cute enough for a child's play room but also large enough to be borrowed for an adult's dessert table.

So, we basically took the pans for the 2x4 outdoor sofa and extended it for one of the sofas because we wanted 4-across seating. We also finished up the look by adding vertical beams in the arms and a second 2x4 across the top (see photos). Because of the really long couch, I added extra bracing foot to make sure it won't sag.

Once complete, we determined the pillows across the back were a bit too tall, so we adjusted the plans by adding a couple beams and then lengthening it to attach to the back of the arms rather then between the arms. We pocket drilled the beams together and then braced it with 1x4 slats across the back. I also used a 1/4 router bit to soften all the edges. Anna we took your advice and pocket drilled all attachments except the seat slats for a real finished store-bought look. Cost of wood was under $100 because we went with pine. Pillows and seats from At Home put us at about $600 total for the project.

This was the second table I built - it was much improved on my first and was for my sister as a Christmas present. It has 4x4 legs that I notched out with a circular saw for the legs and a spruce top. I modified the length down to 6' for her house but added extensions on the end that make the table up to 9' long when fully extended.

I had a perfect corner in our playroom that was reserved mostly for clutter and always wanted to do something fun with it. The base is made with 2x8"s topped with Handscraped Hickory laminate flooring. Bored holes into the floor and installed 1" diameter color-changing LED decklights. Added theatre-style tracklights, disco ball and other dance floor lighting for extra effect. Of course the stage wouldn't be complete without wireless microphones for karaoke and mic stands hooked up to a small amp and speakers in the ceiling. I made the shelving on the right side with 1/2" black pipe and used leftover 2x12" shelves from an old garage shelving install from 7 years ago! The kids were ecstatic on Christmas morning for the reveal!

This was my first project and love how it turned out. I have gotten compliments on it, but I unfortunately continue to look at the flaws in it and want to build another one. It was a great project though and I am in the middle of building the coffee table and end table as well. Here it is before we added all the odds and ends on to shelves and top

I’ve wanted a new island for awhile but wasn’t quite sure what I wanted it to look like, until I saw Ana’s cabinet plans for the Momplex kitchen! We wanted a fairly large island, so we did two 24” base cabinets “townhouse style” (from Ana’s Kitchen Cabinet Base 101 post) plus we added a little extra space at both ends, so Hubby could install some electrical outlets and we’d still have plenty of room for the drawers. The old island had power already, so he got the outlets wired pretty fast. Behind the doors are some deep pull-out drawers to hold all the stuff you’d usually have to bend down and reach for. Now it’s so convenient! I built a Farmhouse Table top for it and love it! We built flat doors and trimmed them up to match the island sides and back (also matches our pantry and dining room). This project took us about 40 hours to build and finish, and it was so worth it! Ana, you are a rockstar in our house! We now have a real showpiece for our kitchen, thanks to Ana White!

It seems like organization is always a work in progress especially in my one car garage shop. Honestly it took years to realize what I needed to customize my space in order to organize things. I've built bulky work benches out of 2x4s and plywood. I've rearranged the work space over and over again over the last few years and finally came up with my own system

The miter station is a life saver. I had one of the fancy ones with the foldable wings but didn't like it. The object of it was to be able to fold the wings down for storage but I never did and it caused other space saving problems. Now I can easily store all of my small tools and woodworking knick knacks all in one spot. You can find plans for these if you google miter station, but take my advice and custom make one that fits all of your needs. There's a spot for my vice and speed square too. Things like that make it count.

The router table is probably my favorite tool in the shop. You can do so many things with the router table. I started out with just a top and a base and worked from there. Now everything router is in the cabinet ready to go.

Everything is on wheels. Us military guys and gals have to move around a lot so we have to plan for that. Now everything can just roll up the ramp and in to the truck.

Take some time and think about the efficiency of your shop space. How does everything flow? Or do you even flow at all? I used to woodwork myself in to a bunch of brick walls and now I don't.

Thanks for checking it out
Patrick