Community Brag Posts

I used the plan for the base idea for my sofa. I decided I'd prefer arms to curl up in and also to add a convertible feature turning an ottoman using the same base plans into an extension option for using the set as a bed or lounge area. Twice the storage, twice the function!

I essentially stuck to the main plan - except to support the wings I used 2X2 boards and standard hinges.

I was worried that there may not be enough space for my Ryobi 10" sliding miter saw because of the slide however, it fits nicely and there is plenty of space.

Thank you for the wonderful plan. This was my first project of this size and I am very happy with the results!

A big thanks to FSMumford for drawing this in Sketchup. I had to re-draw it to take into account metric wood dimensions and bed sizes here in NZ, and also to remove a foot or so from the length.

We just gave it to my daughter today, and already I need to make some modifications. I immediately put some vertical grab rails at the top of the steps and slide. The steps are too big for a toddler (she's 3 today) and I didn't take into account how thick a pillow top mattress is! I really needed to make the end guards higher. In fact, were I to make it again, I'd probably make the towers taller and lower the height of the bed by 8-12 inches. While this would lower interior room, it might make the steps a more reasonable height for a littlie. If you're building for a 5 or 6 year old, this may not be an issue. Also, it would make the angle of the slide shallower (it's a bit steep, I reckon). I used 7 sheets of 16mm MDF but if I'd laid them out like FSMumford did in her plans I would have used less. Our (one car) garage is too small and the whole build process, including painting, was a royal pain in the bum. Fun, but a pain. Speaking of painting, next time (riiiiight) I'd try to paint as much as possible before assembling. I built mine in modules but even so it's hard to get a nice coat of paint on the insides of things. Edges of MDF need to be painted and sanded at least twice to look nice. Don't underestimate the time needed to get a good finish - I spent a third of my build time finishing (mostly, again, due to limited space). A narrow foam roller is great for cutting in but doesn't seem to get enough paint on to cover well on larger areas. In places I have three coats and can still see my pencil marks. I used Dulux Aquanamel.

I wanted to build my wife a matching set of bedside tables for her birthday and loved these plans! However when I measured the space on either side of the bed found that these plans were too large. Some quick calculations later I modified the plans to create some smaller tables and it worked out perfectly! I removed two 2x4s from the top and the bottom shelf and took 7 inches off each of the aprons and voila, smaller tables!

i used minwax wood conditioner, “honey” stain and two coats of polyurethane. Very pleased with how they turned out and the wife was so surprised and happy! Thank you!

I modified the plans just a tiny bit to make the dimensions match the cushions I bought. I got my cushions from Lowes for $57 per set. The other modification I made came because of some of the comments I read on the plan's comment thread. Several people seemed to be worried about the strength of the back section as the back was beveled at a 15 degree angle meaning it wouldn't make a 90 degree joint. Because my biggest fear as a woodworker is having a piece of furniture fail, especially if it fails when someone else is using it, I wanted to make the chair as strong as possible. So, I lowered the lowest back slat so that it's bottom edge would make contact with the seat frame. I also beveled the seat slat at 15 degrees, in fact I built the entire back section and then beveled it all at once. This change allowed me to put pocket holes along the width of the chair. I alternated pocket holes in the seat frame and the back support section. Of course, it is all reinforced when you connect the back section to the arm rests, as well. So far, the chair is holding up quite nicely--as is my pride as a woodworker--and has not even come close to failing. Also, counter intuitively, I put all the pocket holes on the front of the back section. I figured the cushion would cover them, and then the back is left sleek and clean in case anyone wants to admire the chair from the back.

I made these to create display space for my son's lego creations.

Thanks Anna white for the Shoe bench  plans!

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We were replacing the floors in our house so we decided to build a closet mud room. We used the plans for the smiling mudroom and altered them slightly. We didn't end up building the partitions because the left and right seats would have been too closed in. We installed bead board on the back wall and used moulding on the shelf and bench. The only hard part was that we had to actually assemble the shelves and bench in the closet because they wouldn't have fit in once built! The Kreg Jig was extremely helpful and well worth the purchase.

Thanks for the plans Ana!

I stuck to the design but changed the dimensions to suit the space and the boxes we intend to store. This made the shelves 7.5 feet high by 8.5 feet wide. The timber was supplied in 17’ lengths so this also meant very little wastage. The frame is composed of 2x4’s, the shelves are 4.5 x 1.5’s  - as I wanted the shelves slightly shallower this meant I could get away with three boards for each shelf instead of 4 as on the plans. 

For the short cross pieces I used woodglue and screws – to attach the long shelf pieces I just used screws. I predrilled holes in the first piece for each of the screws, but I didn’t drill a pilot hole in the next piece, the screws were self-tapping and didn’t need one.

The back wall is concrete block and I screwed each upright to the wall using wall plugs and screws. I’ve 2 young children and as the shelves are quite high I was afraid they might climb on them and tip them over otherwise. The attachment to the wall definitely makes the whole thing feel much sturdier – the structure is completely rigid.

The only real issue I encountered was that some of the boards were slightly twisted or warped – and I had to apply some force to keep everything square when I was gluing up. Overall I’m very happy with the end product, and found it reasonably easy to put together. Now its time to put the shelves to good use and start tidying up the garage!