Community Brag Posts

Corn Hole Plans
Made lighter by thinner plywood and using 2x3s instead of 2x4s. Not regulation size as just for family and used rope as handles and Velcro on bottom to carry both pieces as one unit. Decorated to fit kids favorite schools.

Our greenhouse. Long time coming but your plans were easy to follow. Can't wait to try some others.

Charles

I had the wood to make this for about 2 weeks. Started on Tuesday and finished Thursday evening! I wanted the look to be different from the Apothecary look so I made the doors a little different!

We followed the plans for the A-frame chicken coop very closely, and then modified it a bit at the end.

1. Trim was added to two doors on each side, as suggested. They are secured with latches at the top, more to keep them from falling open than to keep critters from getting in. We used 2x4x10's instead of 2x4x8's on the middle horizontal rail, giving us foot-long handles on each side. My husband and I are able to move the coop about 15 feet at a time, which is pretty good considering it is STURDY!

2. We used 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, as suggested by one commenter (and lots of others in blogland).

3. I cut 1/4" plywood to fit the loft space and coated it with vinyl stick-on tile. This should make it easier to clean. We didn't screw down the plywood, so if we have to, we can remove it to hose it off/scrub it.

4. I cut a triangle of plywood to make an egg door at the end of the roost. It hinges at the bottom (with a 2x4 ripped into a 1x4 to cover the hardware cloth and provide a mounting spot for hinges) and latches at the top. I plan to use cotter pins or something to secure the latch. There is also a piece of untreated 1x4 held in place with tabs at the egg door to prevent bedding from falling out once it's converted to the nesting box (I'm planning to get pullets, not ready to lay yet, so they won't even have a tempting nest box)

5. There was no bottom door in the plans (to allow free-ranging), so I cut a piece of 2x4 to make a triangle against the bottom (same size as the egg door). It folds out (just like the egg door) and will allow the chickens easy access to the yard. We do have hawks in our neighborhood so free time will always be supervised. We also have a dog (who I coaxed into the coop for the main picture, haha!) who will need supervising. She's been around chickens before but you never know what will make her turn on them!

6. There was also no roost in the plans (although if you look at Ana's coop, there is a 2x4 across the middle of the side walls). I had a leftover closet rod, so I mounted that in the covered section parallel to the ladder. The ladder was shifted to the side. For the ladder, I just used a piece of cedar fencing and cut 2 48" dowels into 4 pieces each, and secured those with screws from the underside. I hope my chickens will be able to get up the ladder!

7. I also made a tube feeder from PVC and a dog bowl, and am working on a nipple waterer. Will update post when those are finished!

Now I just have to get some hens! I've been searching craigslist and can't wait!

I started this project on my own never building anything before. It was so fun. My husband helped me get the roof on and the trim work.

This 2x2 desk base was the perfect size for our 6' exchange student. He needed plenty of room width and length wise. We went with stain in Kona. More time was spent staining then building.

My wife was wanting to get some cupboards and a hutch for her craft room that we were setting up. I looked to buy something but it was very hard to find anything the right size and combination. I was looking at different plans and I came across your site and was inspired to have a go myself. I used the plans for Patrick's Jelly Cupboard and also the Schoolhouse hutch.
I had to change some of it to get the right fit. It took a fair while to complete but I now have a very happy wife

Flip down tray added for computer keyboard.

We needed an entry way table with storage.   The Balin Console Table was the perfect size for our needs.   I modified the drawers by attaching a wood frame around each one.  I decided to taper the legs with my mitre saw.   The hardware was purchased at Pottery Barn ($4/each) and the color is Valspar Turquoise / Gray - Semi Gloss.   I extended the leg length 6" to make the cabinet counter top heigth (plans call for a table heigth).

Project was easy (8 hours) from construction to finish.  

One advantage I had was using a sliding power mitre saw with a 12 1/4" cross cut for the 1x12 material.   It's possible to get a decent cut with a circular saw but the sliding compound mitre saw definitely makes that portion of the project go much quicker.

For best results, I recommend finish sanding with 220 grit and 2 coats of paint rubbing with steel wool after first paint application.   

After finishing my boys' new John Deere room and tractor bunk bed (also posted), I saw this plan and thought it would be the perfect thing for some extra toy storage.

Yes, I know, barns are supposed to be red. Everything else in the room is John Deere green and I had paint leftover, which is not cheap. So green it is! I used my new paint sprayer for the first time on this project and am thrilled with it. I would recommend it to anyone who dislikes painting as much as I do. I bought the Wagner Flexio 590 which comes with a detail sprayer as well as the full size and I'm very happy with both.

Thanks to Ana for the well laid out, easy to follow plan and also for helping me create a big boy room that my boys love!

Custom cornhole boards, made with pocket joinery

We built three base units-each with different storage options and used the corner desk plans. Then created our own long desk top using a 6ft long board and using a jigsaw to create an open space for the sewing machine.