Community Brag Posts

I used the basic design principles from Ana's site but decided to use 3.5x6.5 round fence posts (purchased at my local Tractor Supply Company) for a different look plus they are a little cheaper than 4x4 posts. I also used pressure treated 2x4s for some added strength and perhaps longer durability. I used Ana's cedar fence pickets idea for my roof (these pickets are used as walls on one of the other shed plans on this site). I didn't need a very robust roof as my firewood shed sits underneath the deck which provides a lot of protection from the rain. I attached the structure using 3 inch deck screws and the roof with 1.5 inch deck screws (nails would have been more than adequate for the roof but I had the screws on hand).

I did run into some problems due to my design changes. Most of my issues involved attempting to square up the round posts which are much closer in shape to a jagged stick than dimension lumber such as a 4x4 post. If I had to do it over again I would not have used the round posts. Constant tweaks and adjustments to the posts significantly delayed my build time and frustrated me at times. I was just barely able to wedge my woodshed in between the 2 deck posts which actually came in handy as I was able to secure the shed to the deck posts with 3 inch screws...making the shed very solid! The final issue I discovered after loading up my wood shed. The 2x4s at the bottom of the structure began to sag. I fixed this by using my floor jack to raise them up and placed 8 inch tall 4x4s underneath (2 in the front and 2 in the back).

Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out and I really love all the plans on this site...GREAT ideas!!

Just finished up this unique TV console.  Built from reclaimed pallet wood. 

Just My Size Closet!

Built this from Ana's plans with a few modifications.

Started with a big empty box after ripping the old stuff out and finished with this look.

Adjustable shelves and all !

I got this Idea from Sausha's washer dryer pedestal post.  Before then i didnt know people even built pedestals for their washer and dryer.  Just purchased new front load washer and dryer and they wanted 250 bucks extra for each pedestal.  That is 500 bucks and is absolutely rediculous.  So i opted out of those and thought to myself maybe I can build something instead.  So I began my search online and stumbled across this post which seems to be the most popular pedestal build on the web.  I think sausha's build is fantastic and absolutely beautiful though I went another way with mine.

I tend to like to overbuild things.  Especially in this case, seeing as the washer weighs a beastly 200 pounds by itself.  I figured with clothes and water it would be about 235 pounds just for the washer.  I noticed that with the aluminum drawer pedestals that you can purchse with the washer and dryer the support is only where the legs from the washer and dryer will sit.  That was all I needed to get on my way.  Purchased some regular old douglas fir 2x4's, 4x4's, and a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4 inch plywood.  I opted to use fence post brackets to tie everything together because I didnt feel like driller pocket holes in each 2x4 when you were not going to see them once its all said and done.  The fence brackets are not structural so they lack ridgidity untill you tie everything together with the legs, slats, and top.  Cut the top from the 3/4 plywood sheet and used the left over plywood to cover the front and the sides.  I left the back open as it is not seen anyway. 

Total size of the pedestal is 56" wide x 31" deep x 12 3/4 inches tall, but you can build it as wide, deep or as tall as you need it.  When i was done putting it together.  I tested it by jumping up and down on it and I weigh 230 pounds.  So this thing is quite strong.  I finished it up by covering the edges where the plywood meet with Edge moulding and the bottom with baseboard to match my laundry room.  I used Behr premium plus ultra paint on most of it and, behr alkyd paint for the baseboards.  Gave the top a couple coats of General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane.  Which isnt neccessary but I opted to do so because of the weight of the washer and dryer and the General Finishes High performance dries harder than most other polys that I have used.  I only used it on the top though. 

Taking into account that I used the paint and baseboards left over from renovating my laundry room.  This project cost about 150 bucks.  200 if you have to purchase the paint and moulding.  Quite easy to do and though I made the cutes I needed with my table saw.  This can be done with a circular saw and a drill.  No exotic tools are needed.  Will post finished pictures when my washing machine and dryer are delivered on friday and they are sitting on top of the pedestal. 

I needed new bar stools for our new bar that we designed and built in our basement family/entertaining room. Regardless of where I was looking, these things are silly expensive. I also wanted a little more of a country/rustic look that would suit my husband and my likes. I used the Vintage Bar Stool plans but my husband isn't a small guy and we have friends that aren't classified under the small frame category either, I needed more structure. After thinking about it for a few days, I liked the rustic X look and used that from so many plans. I also am all about comfort and the padded upholstered seats was a must. Can't wait for my next project. BTW. The cabinets behind the bar also came from here I simply modified for what we needed. We get compliments on it all of the time. Love this website, thank you so much for making simple to read instructions for things I actually want to do. 

My son and I made this table this weekend in just a couple of hours with no problems. The directions were clear and easy to follow. Thank you for sharing them with us.

I used the Farmhouse Table plans and just extended the measurements to build an extra-long outdoor table that seats 12.

I always wanted a cabin-type cat tree where my cats could crawl in and feel safe, but still have a great view of the birds out of a window. I tried to draw my vision on paper, but that had a hideous result. Learning Google SketchUp (at least the basics) was an absolute necessity. I could never have built this without drawing it in 3D first, and seeing how the boards would connect, etc.

For the scratch pad, I built a frame out of 2x4s on top of plywood, covered it with carpet, and dropped the standard size scratch pad in place. This is the cat's favorite feature. I put barn doors on the window with tiny hinges so that I can close for added privacy. The tree sits against a window so that the back side is totally open. I made cozy zippered cushions for the platforms (that can be taken off and washed). I covered the carpeted areas with spare carpeting.

I used 1 x 10s to make the bookcase a little shallower, and left the back open. Thanks for the great plan.

This was my second project using plans on this site and I loved it - I made this for a friend's daughter who was moving into her own apartment. She and her girlfriends loved it too! It was very easy and quick to build. Wheels took a bit of time and effort!

This was a real hit and I'd love to make more, if I had room at my house I'd make one for myself!

I wanted to build an L shaped outdoor bar with a 2 post pergola over the grill.  I couldn't find any plans online that would fit the space I had, so I decided to build it myself with custom dimensions.  The top bar is approx. 7'3" across, and 15" wide, while the distance from the right edge (next to the house) to the end of the bar is approx. 9'1".  

I framed it with PT lumber and the 2 pergola posts are sitting on top of the pavers and supported internally within some of the framing studs.  Since the pavers sit on top of concrete, I didn't feel the need to dig up the existing pavers and achor them in the ground.  

I used hardiboard for the exterior and tiled the lower section of the bar.

For the actual high bar top, I wanted to do something unique, and found a 900 year old scrap slab of Cypress at a local lumber yard.  One side was smooth, but underneath was gouged out from different saw cuts and very uneven.  I screwed a piece of 3/4" PT plywood underneath and trimmed it with 1-1/2" Cypress.  I stained the whole thing with a dark honey colored stain and put a generous amount of poly on it once it was dry.  There are a few cracks and nicks on it, but once it was stained, it looked awesome.  

This was my first EVER wood working project.

With that being said, it took me more than just an afternoon.
I used cedar, and all the materials on the cut list had to be sanded , since I didn't like the roughness of the cedar.
I also made the box 4x8. I didn't take into account that that would require a minimum of 48 inches for the top planks. So, some of my top planks are shorter.

I also wished I had a little more instruction from which side to screw the screws in. May sound a little needy for some of you, but I never did anything with wood before. The instructions simply read attach top planks to arm rests (or something int that manner) and I wish it would have told me from which side to screw in (or give me a picture). Looking at some of the brag posts helped a lot.

Because its larger size, I decided to make the seats 3 top planks wide (and also the back rest) and made another middle cover piece to bridge the additional gap when both seats are folded down.

Also, the cedar was VERY expensive, and all the screws, hinges, and handles almost cost me as much as the wood.

The sand to fill the box ran us another $80 (for good plays and), but that was because we made it so big.

All in all, a rather pricey sandbox, but worth it because of the large custom sizes, and the cute little seats.

Pictures show the sandbox without sand, and with some of the handles still missing. I also still need to fill the holes.

Will add a picture of finished box filled with sand when it is available.

I saw this table and nesting grill station on your FB page. I changes it up a little bit, but the concept is perfect for my back yard deck.

Dharris