Refined Printer Cabinet

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diy printer cabinet or large end table
Difficulty
Advanced
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DIY printer cabinet plans

diy printer cabinet or large end table
diy printer cabinet or large end table
diy printer cabinet or large end table
diy printer cabinet or large end table

 

 

 

 

 

Build Post and More Photos

So you know what to do - go check out Jen's building post here, and then get the free plans following!  And please share when you make yours - we'd love to see how you customize and finish your printer table too!

 

 

Free Plans to Build Your Own Printer Cabinet

 

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Refined Printer Cabinet

Dimensions
free printer cabinet plans
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 sheet of 3/4" hardwood plywood
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 27"
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood (24x48 inch panel will work)
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 27" (drawer face) 4 Bun Feet
Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

CUT LIST

  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 20" x 20-3/4" (sides)
  • 2 - 3/4" plwyood @ 20" x 28-1/2" (shelves)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 20-3/4" (side trim for face frame)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 27" (top trim for face frame)
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 27" (bottom trim for face frame)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 20" (drawer cleats)
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 20-3/4" x 30" (top)
  • 1- 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 21-1/2" (back)

DRAWER - Cut to fit your opening and drawer slides and opening

  • 2 - 1x4 @ 24-1/2" (front and back)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 16" (sides)
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 26-3/4" (drawer face)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the insides of the sides for attaching the top in later steps.

Attach shelves to the sides - middle shelf can be fixed or floating (added later with shelf pins).

NOTE for perfectionists - to get the shelf just right, consider cutting off a 1/4" on the front edge and applying edge banding to the front edge of the shelf.

Step 2

Build your face frame first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach to front of cabinet with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 3

You'll need to bring the sides of the cabinet in for the drawer slides. Attach 1x2 to insides with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 4

Attach top through pocket holes drilled in step 1 with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Step 6

Add moulding around the sides for added detail.

Step 7

Attach feet to base.

Step 8

Measure the opening of your drawer area in the cabinet. Read the instructions with your drawer slides and check the clearance needed (normally 1/2" per side for a total of 1"). Build your drawer to fit with the sides cut to the length of the slides, and the front and back cut to the desired width minus 1-1/2".

Step 9

Install the drawer on drawer slides inside the cabinet.

Step 10

Place drawer face over the drawer box with an even gap to sides and top. Nail and glue to drawer box. Then add a few 1-1/4" (pocket hole screw are fine here) from the inside.

NOTE: It may be easier to add your handle before installing the drawer.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

James1234

Sat, 07/04/2015 - 08:41

Great plans! Looking at how Jen added the 1x3 trim on the 3/4" ply....doing this would change all the dimensions of your plan right? I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to follow your plan but also add the routered trim on the sides. Thanks!

BadGolferBob

Tue, 01/26/2021 - 08:42

Hi RM! Bob here, from San Antonio, TX. The toys you provided look great, and I plan on incorporating the. A quick question for you..... On my last project, the plywood and trim pieces were of different woods. Birch plywood & pine trim. I had a VERY difficult time getting a consistent look with stain due to the differing woods..... It was so bad, I ended up painting it. My question is, what steps can I take to get consistent stain? I guess the easy answer is using birch trim..... BUT..... it's not available where I shop. Thanks for your help, if you have the time.