Per 8 feet of wall space, boards spaced every 12" and more than 48" in height, you will need . . .
1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
10 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long (if you need to replace moulding)
Liquid Nails Adhesive
I choose to use pine boards for my Board and Batten project because it is formaldehyde free. You can treat your walls with Board and Batten cut from MDF as well.
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
First things first . . . let's look at how a standard stick framed wall is built. My walls are 24" on center, but yours could also be 16" on center. Find your studs and mark them - you will want as many boards as possible to be nailed to a stud.
No inspect your baseboard. If your baseboard won't match the boards, you will need to remove and replace with a 1x4 board. Nail the new baseboard into studs in the wall.
Creating a board and batten wall treatment is easy and doable by any do it yourselfer. This step by step tutorial will help you add beauty and architectural interest to a blank wall on the tightest of budgets. Beyond style points, you can use the finished board and batten treatment as a picture ledge or for towel or coat hooks.
Choose the height of your board and batten wall treatment. I choose 60" - it just seemed like the right height for my tiny bath. Mark the studs in the wall and attach the top board, but be sure to use a level. It's not uncommon for floors to be off level. Trust your level over the floor.
Now cut to fit 1x2s to fit between the baseboard and the top board. Attach with nails and glue, to the studs in the wall. Use a level.
Now of course you should be aware of the finished design, and if a board just doesn't work, or your wall wasn't built to code, don't feel like you must attach a board to every stud.
I felt like the boards spaced 24" apart on center was just too far for my tiny bathroom. So I went ahead and filled in with additional boards. This time, I glued and nailed, knowing I'm essentially nailing into nothing, I held the nailer at a downward angle. That way as the board falls forward, the nail acts as a hook, keeping it in place until the glue dries.
Cap the board and batten wall treatment with a 1x2 to finish off the top and create a picture ledge. I nailed and glued to the top board.
Now the fun (NOT!) part . . . fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Sand sand sand. Remove any remaining sawdust, wipe clean, prime and paint.