1 - sheet 3/4” plywood ripped into strips 15 3/4” wide referred to as 1x16 boards throughout this plan
3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
6 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (MUST BE VERY STRAIGHT!!!!)
6 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1/4” plywood for drawer bottoms/back
6 - 16” euro style white drawer slides (bottom corner mount)
1 1/4” and 2 1/2” PH screws
1 1/4” finish nails
Knobs or handles
6” caster wheels
NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x10 boards are 9 1/4" wide to fit a 9 1/2" wide drawer opening. Measure the width of your 1x10s and adjust if necessary, allowing for an 1/8" gap around all sides of drawer faces.
2 - 1x16 @ 32 1/4”
6 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4”
1 - 1x16 @ 62 1/2”
4 - 2x2 @ 62 1/2”
6 - 2x2 @ 30”
4 - 2x2 15 3/4”
4 - 1x2 @ 29”
2 - 2x2 @ 41” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, longest point measurement)
12 - 1x8 @ 26 1/2”
12 - 1x8 @ 16”
6 - 1/4” plywood 28” x 16” (tip: have 1/4” plywood ripped into 16” widths at hardware store)
6 - 1x10 @ 28 3/4”
Back is optional
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
These spacers added will be where you attach the drawer slides. Attach level with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" PHs facing upward for attaching top and also 3/4" PHs facing forward for attaching front face frames in later steps.
Then attach top. Either use the predrilled pocket holes from step 1 and 1 1/4" PH screws or use finish nails and glue.
NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" PHs facing forward and backward for attaching face frames in step 3.
Free plans to build a rolling dresser from ana-white.com
Build your face frames first, check for square, and then line up with the cabinet box and attach. You can attach with 2" finish nails AND GLUE or through pocket holes drilled in steps 1 and 2 with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.
These guys are for your drawer slides. Attach with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.
Attach on underside with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.
These guys are to help take the weight off the center of the dresser and distribute it, and also to keep things square. You may feel you don't need them - I'm an overbuilding kinda gal :) Another option if you find your dresser needs additional center support (hey, you never know, you may be storing gold in there!) you can add and additional 5th wheel to the center.
Drawer time! It's super important that your drawers are square and measure 1" less than the overall interior width of the drawer opening. NOTE that some drawer slides may vary in clearance requirements, so always read through the drawer slide instructions before building drawer boxes.
Install drawers with the metal drawer slides.
Now the fun part! Attach faces, with even 1/8" gap around all sides. I do this by setting in place with 1/8" shims on bottom and sides and attaching with glue and a couple of 1 1/4" finish nails. Then I open the door and attach from inside with a few 1 1/4" screws to secure.
NOTE: Depending on your hardware, you may wish to attach hardware first to drawer face.
Final step is to add the wheels!