Top bunk for the Chelsea Bunk System. This bunk is designed to work with a desk system and a bookshelf, creating a bunk bed system with storage. The bottom bunk sits perpendicular to the top. The little details make this bunk a touch more girly, but just as strong, and even easier to build. Features optional full guardrails.
1 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long or stud length
2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1/2 sheet - 3/4" plywood, particle board or MDF
11 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (used for slats and guardrails - adjust the amount you buy to your needs)
2 - 2x6 @ 39" (Headers - cut out in step 1)
2 - 3/4" plywood, particle board or MDF @ 17 1/2" x 39" (panels)
2 - 1x6 @ 39" (Panel Bases)
4 - 2x2 @ 21" (Legs)
2 - 1x6 @ 75" (Siderails)
2 - 2x2 @ 75" (Cleats)
14 - 1x3 @ 39" (Slats)
2 - 1x3 @ 75" (long guardrails)
2 - 1x3 @ 62" (you may wish to make these shorter)
5 - 1x3 @ 17 1/2"
10 - scrap 1x3s to fill gaps
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
PS - you can click any image for a larger view.
Mark the headers as shown above and carefully cut out with a jigsaw. Sand cut edges.
I know it's not easy to cut 1 1/2" thick stock with a jigsaw - practice, take your time, give yourself room to make errors. You will need to cut two of these.
Once you have both headers cut, clamp together, and sand the top edges until both match perfect. Start with coarse sandpaper and work your way down to medium grit.
On the panel, if you are using the Kreg Jig, you will want to drill all pocket holes before assembly. If you do not have a pocket hole jig, what you can do is use the 2x2 legs to screw the header in place, and attach the header to the panel with glue and clamps.
This is what I was referring to in step 2 - if you do not have a pocket hole jig, you can screw through the legs into the header with 3" screws (predrilled with a countersink bit) and this will keep the header in place. You will need to apply ample glue along the bottom edge of the header if you take this route.
Attach the legs to the panel. Use either countersunk screws from the outsides of legs, or pocket holes drilled in step 2.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.