Classic Storage Wall, Extra Wide Media Unit

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 01/19/2010 - 22:40
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

This extra wide media base is sturdy and solid, featuring ample storage. If you need more storage, simply add storage bases and hutches to create an entire media suite from other plans in the Classic Storage Collection.

Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.

Collections
Dimensions
62" Wide x 25" Deep x 22 1/2" Tall

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 – Sheet of 3/4″ A1 Plywood in desired Species or MDF if you are painting 
  • 1 – 1×3 at least 62″ Long 
  • 2 – 1×2 
  • 1 – 2 1/2 base moulding (optional) 
  • 1 – sheet of 3/8 Plywood or MDF (matching your A1 if you are staining the project) 
  • 2 – Sets of either butterfly hinges or Face Frame Euro Hinges 
  • 2 – Pulls or Knobs 
  • 8 – Shelf Pins
    Edge Banding (If you are staining the project)
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • A) 1 – 1×24 @ 60 1/2″ (Bottom) 
  • B) 2 – 1×24 @ 19 1/4″ (Middle Partitions) 
  • C) 2 – 1×24 @ 21 3/4″ (Sides) 
  • D) 1 – 1×24 @ 62″ (Top) 
  • E) 1- 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 62″ x 22 1/2″ (Back) 
  • F) 1- 1×3 @ 62″ (Bottom Trim) 
  • G) 2 – 1×2 @ 62″ (Top Trim and Top Edge Trim) 
  • H) 2 – 1×2 @ 17 3/4″ (Side Trim)
    Optional Base Moulding, 2 1/2″ overall height, 62″ Long
    2 – 1×24 @ 28″ (Shelves)
    Door Cut List – Recommend measuring the opening in the drawer and building the drawer 1/4″ smaller thean the overall opening. Remember that the door will cover the middle partitions, as shown in the diagrams. These dimensions give are the ideal door dimensions. 
  •  I) 2 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 17 1/4″ x 15 1/4″ (Backs of Doors) 
  • J) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 15 1/4″ (Rails on the Doors) 
  • K) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 14 1/4″ (Stiles on the Doors)
Cutting Instructions

A 1x24 is simply 3/4" plywood ripped into 23 1/2" wide strips, 8 feet long. You can get two 1x24s out of each sheet of plywood. This system is used to ease building, creating straighter cuts, and conserve wood. Most plans on Ana-White.com use standard width boards for these reasons and more.
If you cannot find 3/8″ plywood, you can use 1/2″ plywood for the backs and 1/4″ stock (for example maple 1/4″ thick x 1 1/2″ wide). Hobby stock is available at our local Blue store in a wide variety.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. From 2 of the 1×24 boards, cut the the top and a shelf, and the bottom and a shelf. Then cut the remaining sides and middle partitions out of a third 1×24. You will have one 1×24 leftover for future projects.

Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue.

My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy.

Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.

Instructions

Step 1

Bottom and Middle Partitions. Fasten with 2″ fasteners the bottom, A, to the middle pieces, B (green) as shown above.

Step 2

Sides. Use the 2″ fasteners to fasten the sides to the bottom as shown above. There will be a 1 3/4″ clearnance under the bottom shelf.

Step 3

Top. Fasten the top to the sides and middle partitions, as shown above. Use the 2″ fasteners. Make sure you fasten the middle partitions to the measurements shown above.

Step 4

Back. Fasten the back with 1 1/4″ fasteners to the top, bottom, sides and middle partition, as shown in the above diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Trim. Fasten the top trim in place, as shown above. Be sure to fasten to the middle partitions and the sides. You will not be able to fasten to the top. See next step.

Step 7

Top Edge Trim. Fasten the top edge trim in place, as shown below. Make sure you fasten through the face of the trim into the top of the project.

Step 8

Side Trim. Fasten the side trim to the base unit, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 9

Doors. Test your backs to make sure they fit in the openings. Notice how the doors cover the middle partition. Use 5/8″ fasteners, lots of glue and clamps to fasten the rails to the back of the doors, as shown above.

Step 10

Door Stiles. Fasten the stiles, as directed in step 9, to the doors. Lay flat to dry, preferably with something heavy on top. If you are staining the project, you will need to add edge banding to the top and inside edges of the doors. This is easy and inexpensive to do (see HOW-TO section for a post on Choosing your Wood).
After you have finished the project, attach the doors to the cabinet using either butterfly hinges or euro hinges for face framed cabinets.

Step 11

Optional Base Moulding. If you would like to dress the base up, add moulding as shown above. The moulding will need to be less than 2 1/2″ in overall width.

Step 12

Shelves. Determine where you will place your shelves. Drill holes 1″ from the front and 1″ from the back on both middle partitions, 1/2″ deep, with a 1/4″ drill bit, where the base of the shelf will sit. Insert shelf pins and place your shelf in the base unit. If you are staining your base unit, you will need to add edge banding to the front edge of the shelves.

Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

cannonballs

Sat, 03/03/2012 - 08:47

Is there any way to get bigger versions of the SketchUp example pictures? They're too small to read any of the print in them. Thanks.

Jennifer Reeher (not verified)

Sun, 12/16/2012 - 19:12

I really love this design, but my husband wants doors covering all the shelves on the media unit.

How would I go about adding doors on the middle section??
Also, how would I change the sizes of everything?

Thanks so very much. I really love all of your designs & really appreciate the work you've done to allow others to make wonderful, quality DIY pieces for the home.

-Jenn

sean calleja (not verified)

Sat, 01/05/2013 - 07:46

So, I have a Kreg Jig and I love it. However, I have not used it with MDF yet. Do I need to use an alternate method of joining MDF because the Kreg Jig square head nails come in course and fine thread WOOD screws? The more I review the plans, the more it is less Kreg Friendly. Am I just being timid? MDF is a little pricey to just start hacking up. Thanks for the help.
Sean

seancalleja

Mon, 04/01/2013 - 06:58

Now, I just need to post the brag! Some notes that I took away from this build.
1. If Kreg makes it, you should buy it immediately.
2. When cutting your 16" strips down to make them more manageable, make sure the cut you make is straight (Kreg Rip Cut).
3. Cut shelves last...after your 10 coats of paint.
4. I used cleats to attach the bridge
5. My Paslode trim nailer made the last three pieces very easy, I should have bought this up front.
6. You can use your scrap MDF for trim instead of 1x2's.
It took me 5 weekends to complete this project and loved every minute of it.

jr91392

Thu, 01/22/2015 - 21:56

I was going to make this entirely out of MDF and not use plywood (I have no preference between paint and stain), but I am worried if that would be sturdy enough for a large TV. They can be almost 100 pounds, mine is like 85. I worry that if I make it out of MDF that the top would start to sag pretty quickly. Perhaps I'll use plywood for that piece and use MDF for the rest of it.