Emily Nightstand

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 01/28/2015 - 10:23
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans for pretty nightstand inspired by Ballard Designs Isabella Nightstand. Plans by ANA-WHITE.com

Wow.

Can you believe this beautiful nightstand is DIY - even the pretty moulding pieces are DIY?

My friend Jen Woodhouse from The House of Wood wanted to build nightstands for her friend, so she asked me to team up with her for plans.  Jen's friend Emily loved these nightstands, but the curved moulding was not something that we could easily source or purchase on a DIY budget.  So Jen actually cut all of those moulding pieces with a scroll saw!

What a huge difference the moulding made - this nightstand is otherwise just a box!

The turned legs don't hurt either!

I love all the storage!

And the perfectly petite drawer - only big enough for a magazine or book or a phone. 

Here's from Jen -

My friend Emily and her husband recently bought their first house and I was excited to help her furnish it. First on the list was bedroom furniture so I made these nightstands for her (matching dresser plans coming soon!). When we couldn't find an affordable option for the curved panel moulding, Ana suggested that I make them from scratch. I used a scroll saw for this (my first time!) and it was pretty awesome - I love the precision of this tool.
 
 
The extra detail was a little more work, but totally worth it. Emily loves her new nightstands! Thank you Ana for working with me on this project!

Thanks Jen!

 Jen's been kind enough to put together a post on her building experience, complete with lots more photos and buidling tips and tricks.  Please take a second to check out Jen's building post here.  

And of course, plans follow!  Enjoy!

Ana

 

PS - We'd love it if you shared or pinned this project!!!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood
1/4 sheet of 1/4" plywood
2 - 1x2x6'
1 - 20-3/4" of 1x3
4 Osborne Wood turned legs
Iron-On Veneer edging
3/4" x 3/4" cove moulding
moulding for the drawer face
3/4" brad nails
1 set of 14" drawer slides
4 knobs
4 hinges
Hanger bolts/tee nuts or lag screws
4 turned feet, 6" long (we got ours from Osborne Wood

Cut List

Cut List:
3 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/2" x 17-1/4" (bottom & sides)
3 - 1x2 @ 21" (carcass supports)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 24" x 18" (top)
2 - 3/4" x 3/4" cove moulding @ 24" (top and bottom trim)
4 - 3/4" x 3/4" cove moulding @ 18" (top and bottom trim)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 17-1/4" x 10-3/8" (doors)
4 - 1/2" x 1/4" moulding @ 14-3/4" (trim)
6 - 1/2" x 1/4" moulding @ 10-1/4" (trim)
4 - 1/2" x 1/4" moulding @ 6-3/4" (trim)
12 - curved moulding (cut out of 1/4" plywood - see diagram)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 23-1/4" x 22-1/2" (back)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 21" x 16-1/2" (optional shelf)

Drawer:
2 - 1x2 @ 18-1/2" (drawer front/back)
2 - 1x2 @ 14" (drawer sides)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 20" x 14" (drawer bottom)
1 - 1x3 @ 20-3/4" (drawer face)
2 - moulding @ 20-3/4" (drawer face trim)
2 - moulding @ 2-1/2" (drawer face trim)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Scroll Saw
Shelf Pin Jig
Iron for Edge Banding
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

If it's easier (depending on your legs and how they attach) you may want to attach the legs now.

Step 2

You'll want to edge band the front edges of the side panels. If you are a perfectionist, you'll want to take about an 1/8" off the front edge (you'll need a tablesaw) to allow for edgebanding (depending on thickness of your edgebanding). If you are painting, you can also fill the front edges of the plywood with wood filler, sand and paint.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top in later steps on the insides.

Attach side panels to base with 3/4" pocket holes along bottom inside edge with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Attach top supports at front and back - also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top in next step.

Step 4

Attach top to sides and top trim with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Build the drawer to fit your drawer slides and openings - the drawer shown is for drawer slides that require 1/2" clearance on each side (total of 1" clearance) and if your opening is true to width. Place pocket holes on outsides - they will be hidden by drawer face. Attach 1/4" plywood to bottom with nails (3/4") and glue.

Step 7

Install drawer 3/4" inset, and place drawer face on top and nail on in a few places (avoid areas where you will add hardware), leaving 1/8" gap to top and sides. Remove drawer and add a few 1-1/4" screws from back side.

Step 8

Attach drawer bottom trim with 1/8" gap above, so all around the drawer is 1/8" gaps. Use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws to attach.

Step 9

Cut doors out of 3/4" plywood and attach with hinges.

Step 10

Create a pattern for the moulding and cut out with a scroll saw.

Step 11

Attach moulding to drawer faces with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 12

Attach back plywood with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Comments

spiceylg

Wed, 02/04/2015 - 10:02

That is seriously impressive and the scroll work? Wow! First time! Nicely done!