Fancy X Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 05/23/2019 - 11:19
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65.  A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times.  

We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.

dark wood stained farmhouse table with X legs and cross bracing
side view of farmhouse table with cross bracing

 

 

Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag! 

 

 

Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

 

Thanks Whitney!!!

 

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with X bracing
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long

7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long

3” self tapping wood screws 

2 ½” pocket hole screws

2” finish nails

Cut List

ENDS

  • 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
  • 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”

 

MAIN TABLE

2 – 2x4 @ 65”

2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)

4 – 2x10 @ 96”

 

** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:

4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws

Step 2

Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side

Step 3

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.

Step 4

And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8”  short point to short point. 

Step 5

Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends

Step 6

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8

The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes.  But you will have to fill later with wood filler.

An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.

Step 9

And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.

If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

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Comments

ckp (not verified)

Sun, 09/23/2012 - 13:51

My husband built this table and the two smaller benches (we want to put captains chairs at the ends) this weekend. He bought all of the lumber, a $100 Kreg Jig, stain, and screws for $300. The ENTIRE project $300!

Pearidge Concrete (not verified)

Sat, 10/06/2012 - 21:20

I recently built this table and I managed the build this table for around $45.
According to the cut list you need 7 -2x4 but I needed 8 somehow.
At my local lumber yard this is what it cost me.
4-2x10@8foot =$19.36
8-2x4@8foot = $19.04
1-1x4@12foot =$3.12
1- box of 3" screws =$2.37
Kregg Jig= borrowed. (I will be buying one)
Wood Glue= Had on hand
Stain=had on hand
Total =$43.89 before tax

Even if you didnt use the Kregg Jig and had to buy wood glue and stain you can still get by at around $60.

Totally doable.

Chris from Mordy (not verified)

Sat, 09/29/2012 - 04:31

Hi there Whitney, this is my first time on the Ana White site but I am so impressed with these super designs, you are very clever. I am converting it to metrics and please excuse me if this is a silly question, but in the cut list when I add up the 2x4 (5 cuts), I get 52 feet. But the shopping list says buy 56 feet, luckily for me my timber merchant is cutting it all for so I wanted to double check that that I am not missing something with the missing 4 feet? I have read the designs and can't find it. Could you confirm? Many thanks, Chris

Dina M. (not verified)

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 05:56

I was wondering if you used a better quality wood, like cedar or redwood, if you could go with 1 x 4's instead of the 2 x 4's. I'm concerned about the strength but know that the better quality wood is stronger than the cheap stuff...any thoughts? Thanks!

Ashley Rush (not verified)

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 10:51

Forgive my ignorance, but what are PH screws? And how many do you need for the table?

Sunny Espanet (not verified)

Thu, 10/18/2012 - 17:20

Ashley, PH means Pocket Hole screws. Used with the Kreg Jig which produces pocket holes. Go to Whitney's site to see a pic with an example of pocket holes (in the stretcher going between the two "legs" of the table)

David Milligan (not verified)

Fri, 10/26/2012 - 00:23

Step 1 places the 20" upright. I'm struggling with the math here... the table is meant to be 29 3/4" tall in total, but if the thickness of all the horizontals and the top total 13" (1" for the feet, 2" + 2" + 1" for both the bottom and top of the end pieces, plus another 2" for the table top), this leaves only 16 3/4" for the uprights. I can't get my head around how they're supposed to be 20" and still produce a table 29 3/4" tall. And where does the fraction of an inch come from?? Help please...

johannajanelle

Sat, 02/02/2013 - 07:02

david did you figure out this height measurement? we are struggling with the same thing right now.