Plans for Industrial Workbench Console from Ana-White.com
8 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
4 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (could also use 2x4s)
4 - caster wheels
2-1/2" wood screws (get the self tapping torque head ones)
24 3" lag screws (for decorative exposed heads)
1-1/4" finish nails (for attaching bottom shelf boards)
2-1/2" pocket hole screws (you'll just need 8 for attaching bottom apron)
4 - 2x4 @ 34-1/2" (longer leg pieces)
4 - 2x4 @ 31" (shorter leg pieces)
2 - 2x6 @ 22-1/4" (middle leg stretcher - passes through notches)
2 - 2x6 @ 13-3/4" (shorter bottom stretcher)
5 - 2x4 @ 20-3/4" (top "studs")
2 - 2x4 @ 88-1/2" (front/back top aprons)
2 - 2x6 @ 88-1/2" (bottom shelf front/back aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 31" (center legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 22" (inside center legs)
2 - 2x2 @ 81" (could also use 2x4s - for setting shelf boards on top)
15 - 1x6 @ 20-3/4" (bottom shelf boards)
3 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long (top boards)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Notch out the 8 leg pieces as shown here.
To notch out, set your circular saw blade to a depth of 3/4". Make cuts in notched area about every 1/4". Use a chisel to remove material from notched out areas after cutting.
Image from MakeZine
Fit the longer 2x6 inside the leg sets, attach with 2-1/2" screws from inside (starting screws on the longer 2x4) with glue.
Take care to make sure you are attaching square - you can use the shorter 2x6 as a spacer on the bottom (see next step) to help you here.
Attach bottom 2x6 with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. If you don't have a pocket hole jig you can alternatively attach by screwing at an angle with the 2-1/2" screws or you could notch as done with the upper 2x6 piece.
UPDATE: One of our readers suggested that when you attach this board with 1-1/2" pocket holes, the screw lands between the two leg boards. I suggest drilling 3/4" pocket holes instead (this will move the pocket hole inward enough) you can still use the 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Attach top 2x4 in place with 2-1/2" screws and glue. This completes the two leg sets.
Attach 2x4 studs in between top aprons - these guys will support the tabletop in later steps.
Attach center leg to top and bottom aprons with 2-1/2" wood screws and glue.
Fill in void behind center leg with smaller 2x4.
Attach 2x2 cleats to insides of 2x6 aprons, about 3/4" down to allow for shelving boards (see next step).
Start in center and work outward, laying the 1x6 shelf boards down. The end 1x6s will need to be notched out with a jigsaw to allow for the legs to set inset.
Glue and nail down.
Attach tabletop boards to studs and aprons on top with 2-1/2" screws and glue. Overhangs are even on ends and front/back.
Attach casters to the bottom of legs.
For finishing details, please visit Jilly and Mia.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.