2x4 bunk beds that look anything but! We love the modern look of these sturdy bunk beds. Built in sections, it's easy to move in and out of a room. There's good reason this plan is a reader favorite.
You'll love how easy and inexpensive they are to build! Our free step by step plans include diagrams, shopping list and cut list.
- 7 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 6 - 2x6 @ 10 feet long
- 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
- 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 2 1/2" self tapping wood screws for most of the joinery (about 150)
- If you have a brad nailer, 2" brad nails would be nice to use in step 2
- 2" self tapping wood screws for attaching the slats (about 50)
- Recommend using 32 - 3 1/2" bolts with nuts and washers for attaching siderails to headboard/footboard
- You'll also need wood to create the slat system if you mattress is not a "bunkie board". We recommend 1x4 lumber, spaced about 4" apart - you'll need about 10 1x4 at 8 feet long.
- For each guardrail, you'll need another 2x6 @ 8 feet long and about 3 feet of 2x4s
- For the ladder, you'll need two more 2x4 @ 8 feet long
Bunk Bed Cut List
- 18 - 2x6 @ 36"
- 4 - 2x4 @ 72"
- 4 - 2x4 @ 18"
- 4 - 2x4 @ 33"
- 4 - 2x4 @ 10"
- 4 - 2x6 @ 82"
- 4 - 2x2 @ 75"
- Slats cut at 39" or bunkie board
Guardrail Cut List (for one guardrail)
- 2 - 2x6 @ 48"
- 2 - 2x4 @ 16"
Ladder Cut List
- 2 - 2x4 @ 59-1/4" - long point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 25 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel
- 4 - 2x4 @ 17-1/2"
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Build the two bunk bed ends by attaching the 2x6 @ 36" to the 2x4 legs. There should be a 1/2" gap in between the 2x6 slats, and 1" on space on either side on the 2x4 legs.
We recommend two 2-1/2" self tapping screws per joint to attach from the outside - don't worry about it looking nice, this all gets covered.
Once your ends are built, add the leg spacer trim pieces. Now this plan assumes your 2x6s are 5 1/2" wide. I would use a scrap 2x6 piece as a spacer to make sure you are getting the right gaps for the next step. Start at the bottom and work your way up. TIP: Cut the top sections last as they may be long or short depending on the width of your 2x6 boards.
We recommend using 2" brad nails and glue to attach, as the nails are easy to hide.
Sand, paint or stain the two end panels and your 2x6 @ 82" siderails now.
Move the pieces into the room.
To assemble, drill four holes in pattern on each end of the siderails, through the legs. Attach with bolts and washers. This way, your bed can easily be taken apart and moved.
Screw 2x2 cleats to the inside of the siderail with 2-1/2" screws and glue, screw about every 8-10".
Screw 2x6s to 2x4s from inside, leave a 1/2" gap in between.
Screw guardrail to back side of the bed siderails.
Mattress slats - use 1x4s or similar laid on top of the 2x2 cleats to support the mattress. We recommend 2" screws for keeping the slats secured.
Place the slats around the guardrail legs.
Cut the mattress legs at 25 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement, ends ARE parallel.
Then cut the top end off, 1-1/2" back, at a 90 degree angle from the top angled cut end.
Use 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws to attach ladder rungs to the ladder legs.
Attach ladder from inside of the siderail with 2-1/2" screws.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.