Ridge Media Console

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 08/26/2013 - 10:00
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Free plans to build a solid wood media console with flip down storage for hiding controllers.

Good Monday to you!

I'm so happy to deliver a brand new plan to you today!

My friend Jen Woodhouse loved the Pottery Barn Ridgely Media Console, but wanted to DIY something a little less expensive and a little more custom to her family's needs.  So she asked me to draw a plan for her!  

Oh goody!

And of course, we get to share those plans with you!  You'll find the plans following!

But if you want lots more photos including how those drawer faces were made, building tips and finishing steps, please take a quick second to pop over and say hi to Jen and check out her building post.  

Thanks Jen!

Now for those plans for you all!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

5 - knobs or handles
1 set of butt hinges or piano hinge
1 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 3 feet long (or 8 feet long if you are using a 1x12 for back)
6 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
6 - 1x6 @ 72” long
1 - 3/4” plywood @ 13 1/2” x 58 1/2” (can use shelving materials here)
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
1/4” plywood for the back if not using the 1x12

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Cut List

4 - 2x4 @ 29 1/4”
2 - 1x12 @ 13 1/2”
2 - 1x2 @ 53” (for additional support, use 2x2s here instead - ie heavy bottom shelf loads)
3 - 2x2 @ 13 1/2”
3 - 1x6 @ 53”
1 - 3/4” plywood @ 13 1/2” x 58 1/2” (can use shelving materials here)
2 - 1x3 @ 53”
2 - 1x2 @ 53”
2 - 1x2 @ 7 1/2”
1 - 1/4” plywood @ 53” x 11 1/4” (could use a 1x12 for the back - especially if you are planning to place heavy weight on top this may make sense)
3 - 1x6 @ 70 1/2”
2 - 1x2 @ 16 1/2”
2 - 1x2 @ 72”
1 - 1x8 @ 49 3/4”

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build two of the leg sets by attaching the side apron to the legs.

Step 2

Then attach the leg sets together with the bottom shelf trim.

Note from Jen: instead of using 1 1/4" PH screws, I used 2 1/2" PH screws since it's going into a 2x4. The shorter screws didn't seem to bite in deep enough, so I think the 2 1/2" will hold stronger.

Step 3

To reinforce the bottom shelf, add supports - more for heavier loads. For very heavy loads (stacks of books) maybe try adding a center support leg that is hidden in the middle of the shelf.

ERROR in Diagram: use 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws here.

Step 4

Next, attach your shelf boards to the bottom shelf.

Note from Jen - After attaching the bottom shelf, I jumped to the 2nd graphic on page 5, and attached the tabletop frame (1x2 boards). I also added 3 2x2 supports just for extra strength then I pre-drilled countersunk holes from the underside of the 2x2s to attach the tabletop.

Step 5

Step 6

Then attach front trim. If you want to dress it up, use a jigsaw to cut out the ends as shown in diagram. It's up to you - no structural reason here.

Step 7

Then attach the top trim boards.

TIP: Attach boards in next step to the 1x2 @ 53” first as you won’t be able to fit your drill inside to do the next step.

Step 8

These guys go to the ends to fiish them out - as noted above, you may wish to attach them first, depending on your right angle drill situation (if you don't have one, you won't be able to fit a drill in there to attach to the top trim).

Step 9

Attach back to the console.

NOTE: The benefit of using a 1x12 for the back is added strength if you are putting heavy loads on top (TV). If you use a 1x12, attach with pocket holes to the legs as well.

Step 10

NOTE: Before building the top, you may want to attach the hinges for the flip down drawer face with the top off (make attaching hinges more accessible).

Build your top first using pocket hole joinery. Then attach the completed top to the console.

Step 11

Trim out the outsides of the top as shown above, nailing on the trim.

Step 12

Attach the drawer face to the drawer area with hinges.

Jen used euro style surface mount for full overlay or inset hinges to attach the drawer face.  She also used blocking to bring the inside of the shelf flush.

Jen also wanted the drawers to look a little fancier, like individual drawers, so she attached these false drawer faces.  

You can read more details directly from Jen here on all of her building modificiations.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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