Rustic X Coffee Table

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 07/09/2019 - 10:40
Difficulty
Intermediate
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You can build a beautiful coffee table out of lumber!  For about $50 in materials, this solid wood coffee table with it's X detailing could be yours.  Our free plans include step by step diagrams, shopping lists and cut list - everything you need to get started.

Also in this collection: Rustic X Console Table, Rustic X End Table, and Rustic X Bench Plans

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rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans
rustic x coffee table plans

Beginner Friendly Option

With the popularity of this plan, we have created a Beginner Friendly plan that is very similar.  It uses less tools and the overall cost is under $40.

farmhouse coffee table

The beginner plan is slightly smaller and has a slatted bottom shelf.  You can find the plans here.

Rustic X Coffee Table Plans

Remember a bit back when Hillary  from The Friendly Home built this amazing Rustic X Console Table from 2x4s? 

We've had so much interest from readers, we thought we'd add a coffee table plan to the collection.  

This coffee table is so gorgeous, it's hard to believe it's made from standard off the shelf lumber!

I ENCOURAGE you to stop over and visit Hillary and read about how she battled a wild fire to build this coffee table!  

PS - Hillary is also sharing her finishing tutorial.

Dimensions
rustic x coffee table dimensions
Dimensions are shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 – 2x4 – 8 feet or stud length
  • 4 – 2x2 – 8 feet
  • 1 – 1x12 – 8 feet long
  • 5 – 2x6 – stud length
  • 1 ¼” and 2 ½” Pocket Hole screws
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 16 ½” (legs)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 41” (side trim)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 22 ½” (end trim)
  • 2 – 1x12 @ 41” (bottom shelf)
  • 2 – 2x2 @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)
  • 4 – 2x2 @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)
  • 5 – 2x6 @ 52” (tabletop boards)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First build the two side trim pieces.

Step 2

Then connect together. Hide top pocket holes on top, bottom pocket holes on bottom. NOTE: This plan is sized for 1x12 boards measuring 11 1/4" wide - measure your 1x12 boards, double that number, and cut your side trim to fit - see next step.

Step 3

Build your bottom shelf with 3/4" PHs/1 1/4" PH screws down center. Then drill 3/4" PHs around all outside edges and attach to the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Now attach cut and build the X braces. Attach in place. These are mostly decorative, so don't stress about getting them super screwed in place. Some good glue and screws will do the trick.

Step 5

For the top, we recommend building the entire top with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws on a flat level surface.

Then attached the completed top to the base.
 

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Lindelium18

Thu, 09/12/2013 - 05:47

I'm going to build this table this weekend. That being said, I'd like to address a few of the comments left by others.
1) you do need 3-2x2's. At first I didn't think you did but then I realized you needed 4 of the long pieces. So, yes, you will need 3 of the 2x2's.

2)if your saw does not go to 60 degrees, use a shim. Set your saw to the 45 degree setting. Then, instead of putting your board directly against the back wall of the saw, you will need a shim or spacer in there. If you make a shim, it should be 3-3/4" long, 1" thick and taper down to zero. Or, you can take a 1" thick piece of lumber and put it against the wall of the saw. Then, clamp your piece you're cutting against that and the back wall. This will give you a 15 degree angle plus your saw is 45 degrees so this will equal a 60 degree cut. Make sure all of your lumber is on the same side as the blade.
EDIT: I still ran into an issue of my 10" Miter not cutting deep enough with this shim in there. This one might just be easier with a line drawn and a circular saw...your choice.

3) As for the strength of the bottom shelf, I'm not overly confident it will be super strong... I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet, but here are a few suggestions:
A) glue the seam together and use a couple of clamps to hold it tight over night. Pocket screws won't hurt here either, but the glue will actually hold pretty well as long as its clamped tight and the entire area was covered in glue very well.
B) buy a sheet of plywood instead of the 1x12's. all the edges are covered by your trim pieces, so you won't have to worry about hiding the edge. If looks are important, get a piece of plywood with a veneer top that you like.
EDIT: this is what I choose. It was much easier than the other alternatives.

C) buy 2 of the 8' 1x12's and stack them. This is probably the most complicated and probably over-kill, but it'll definitely be strong. Instead of 2- 1x12's cut 41" you will cut 4 of them. Then, take of of them, and cut it in half, long ways. You should then have 3- 1x12's 41" long and 2- 1x6's 41" long. Take your first 2 1x12's and place them together on a flat surface. Then, take your third 1x12 and stack it right in the middle, like a pyramid. Finally, place your 2-1x6's on the left and right. Every seam gets glued along with the bottom boards getting glued to the tops ones. Clamp it all together and let it set over night. This will take a lot of time, effort, glue and clamps, but essentially what your are creating is a 2x24" board, and it'll be solid!

Also, it may be worth looking into the usual methods of mounting a table top. Since it is 5 separate pieces and not that big, it may not be a big deal; but lumber tends to shrink and expand with humidity. So, normally, tops are not screwed down, but rather, floated on with brackets. Just something to possibly look into.

If you've read this far, I applaud you. I may shoot a video of my build, but I haven't decided yet... Time will tell! :). Good luck!

maryg4

Sat, 10/05/2013 - 19:25

First of all, I sincerely love this site and the step by step instructions! My hubby is having a blast with me searching on your site! I know this is somewhat of a silly question, as we've done a few projects from this site, however our costs tend to be higher than what's projected. I assume it's because we are using higher quality wood, maybe? For this particular project, what type of wood do you recommend using? Thanks!

erincushman

Thu, 10/24/2013 - 13:02

So this was my first time building a good quality piece of furniture, and I've never worked with wood filler before. I didn't realize how careful you needed to be with it - some (okay, a lot) dried outside of the holes. I did sand, but it didn't get all the way out before I oxidized; now I have big white blotches where the wood filler was. Is there any way to fix this? Should I sand it ALL out and restart- should I paint the piece a different color?

The oxidizing would've been perfect (and the table is great!) if I hadn't messed it up with the wood filler. I'm hoping I can somehow salvage???

cfugle

Thu, 02/06/2014 - 05:05

Hi Ana and gang!
Slowly i have been building things using many of your plans. I stumbled across your coffee table plan and decides to make a few revisions to better suit my home and two wood chewing dogs. I really liked the X-design but wanted to prevent 2 over 70lb dogs from walking through the large opening so I made big "V"s instead of smaller "X"s.
http://flic.kr/p/jNGyZw

MBuckson

Wed, 02/26/2014 - 10:44

Hello,

I'm in the middle of building this, but have one quick question...what are the black bracket things on the corners of the tabletop? I have no idea what they're called or used for, but they look really good on the table. Thanks!

briankalwat

Tue, 04/29/2014 - 14:57

Hey Ana!

I'm wondering if you can share how you painted the decorative hardware. Did you just spray paint it? Any special prep to ensure it sticks/doesn't chip?

Thanks so much!