Rustic X End Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 08/15/2019 - 00:03
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own end tables!  These gorgeous rustic style end tables are built from 2x4s and lumber.  We love the large size and the open bottom shelf. Stain or paint any color. Our beginner friendly plans make it easy with step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.  

Also in this Collection: Rustic X Console Table, Rustic X Coffee Table and Rustic X Bench Plans

Collections
rustic x end table plans

Rustic X Living Room Table Collection

This end table is part of a collection of living room furniture that you can build. All the plans are available for free for your use.

It all started with this beautiful X Console Table, built by Hillary from The Friendly Home.

And then we added this beautiful Rustic X Coffee Table, also built by Hillary.

Now, Hillary used up her scraps and built X End Tables!

 

DIY Wood Finish

Hillary used a steel wool and vinegar solution to age her end table. Want the same finish? Get the step by step tutorial here.

Dimensions
rustic x end table plans
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 3 feet long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long corner bracket hardware decorative bolts
  • 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" Pocket Hole screws
  • wood glue
Cut List
  • 8 - 2X4 @ 22 1/2" - Legs
  • 4 - 2X2 @ 16" - Trim
  • 2 - 1X12 @ 16" - Bottom shelf
  • 2 - 2X2 @ 26 1/2" (LONG POINT TO SHORT POINT, ENDS ARE PARALLEL, 50 DEGREES OFF SQUARE) *
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 13 1/4" (Longest edge, one end cut at 50 degrees off square, other end cut at 10 degrees off square, see diagram) *
  • 5 - 2x6 @ 27" - Top

*You may wish to trace and cut these in place

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building two ends as depicted in diagrams. You can also attach with countersunk 2 1/2" screws and glue.

NOTE: Yellow board width should be 22 1/2"

Step 2

Next attach the 2x2 sides.

Step 3

And then build your bottom shelf and attach to bottom of console.

Step 4

Now it's time to fit your cross braces. A standard miter saw should cut a 50 degree angle off square. If not, you will need to mark it with a square (remember 50 degrees is off square, so that means the angle off the board edge would be 40 degrees.

Another trick is to just hold the board in place, mark the angles, and cut. These aren't support boards or anything like that, so some glue and a few nails or countersunk screws from top/bottom will do the trick.

TIP: We recommend building the entire X first, the attaching the complete X inside the end table.

Step 5

The smaller X pieces can be cut to fit.  Attach with a 1-1/2" pocket hole and 2-1/2" pocket hole screw, one screw per joint.

Step 6

Next build your top ... and attach in place with countersunk 2 1/2" screws. If you have the PH screws on hand, I just use a few of those!

Step 7

And then add the decorative hardware!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Clinton (not verified)

Sun, 09/09/2012 - 18:56

This will be my very first furniture project. This design is awesome! In step 6 it says build top first with 1 1/2 Ph ( does ph mean phillips head?). What does build top first mean? Combine the 1x6's to themselves and then attach to table? If so what technique do you use to combine them to one another?

MrsGig

Sun, 09/09/2012 - 20:46

PH = Pocket Holes. One great tool to add to your toolkit is a pocket hole jig. Kreg makes several nice sets, and I have the Kreg Jr., which has been very handy on a number of benches, odd jobs, and deer blinds. It has been well worth the money.

Where it refers to 1 1/2 PH - that is refering to the size screws for the pocket holes. You use the pocket holes and screws to join the 1x6's together.

Clinton (not verified)

Mon, 09/10/2012 - 08:50

Thank you for the quick lesson. Looks like I will be picking up the kreg tool from lowes. The pocket holes for the 1x6. If I take two boards and lay them next to each other I will drill the pocket hole along the seam? Do that until all are joined and then attach to top by screwing along apron from underneath? Ok I believe last question. The bottom shelf you will join together by pocket holes along Sean similar to 1x6? Then pocket holes along outer from underneath?

Clinton (not verified)

Mon, 09/10/2012 - 08:55

Thank you for the quick lesson. Looks like I will be picking up the kreg tool from lowes. The pocket holes for the 1x6. If I take two boards and lay them next to each other I will drill the pocket hole along the seam? Do that until all are joined and then attach to top by screwing along apron from underneath? Ok I believe last question. The bottom shelf you will join together by pocket holes along Sean similar to 1x6? Then pocket holes along outer from underneath?

MrsGig

Tue, 09/11/2012 - 03:06

Yes, you have the concept now. I would suggest watching a few videos on the Kreg site or check Ana's videos. Also try it out on scrap wood once you have your jig..

Jon (not verified)

Wed, 09/12/2012 - 17:28

Hi!

I was wondering you could elaborate on securing the smaller pieces of the X. It says to attach the screws out of site but where would that be?

I can't seem to see where they are screwed in the picture (which is a good thing I guess!)

Any input would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

Hillary (not verified)

Sun, 09/23/2012 - 11:46

Hi, Jon. I just attached the x pieces using screws wherever I could reach. For me, that was on top of the top x pieces and on the underside of the bottom ones -- I think I flipped the table over to do the bottom ones. I also used dark screws for that, so that they wouldn't be obvious. You can find them if you're looking for them, but they don't stand out. A pneumatic nailer would probably be better, but I didn't fee like firing up my air compressor!

Kris Taylor (not verified)

Sat, 09/15/2012 - 08:10

I have made furniture before, however the top warped.. What kind of wood are you using for this project? How do you get your projects from warping?? Any help would be great!
Thanks!!!!

Hillary (not verified)

Sun, 09/23/2012 - 11:51

I've actually not had that problem unless the wood I bought was already warped. I'm pretty picky about what I bring home, especially if it is for a project that isn't meant to look rustic.

Buying the driest wood you can find will help. If it is cool to the touch and if it is especially heavy, it is still wet. Sometimes only wet wood is available, especially when you're buying 2x4s and 2x6s like for this project. Also, I think center-cut boards are supposed to warp less? Looking at the end grain to see the growth pattern can sometimes give you a clue. That would be a good thing to Google -- I know there is lots of info out there about it. Good luck!