West Elm Side Table Bookcase

Submitted by KateJolie on Tue, 04/05/2011 - 12:46
Additional Photos

Although, the cost is relatively small at $199, yet I am guessing it could be much less if made and not to difficult of a project to try out for my first attempt.  If someone with experience is willing to post their instructions I would be so excited.  Thanks.



Wed, 04/06/2011 - 09:11

i wouldn't attempt this without a Kreg jig for hidden pocket holes. depends on how wide you want it, but I'd use (assuming both sides of the "L" are the same) 6 1x8s to form the shelves, it looks like the space between the bottom and the floating shelf would need plywood behind it. the risers i would use 1x8s for too, so they're the same depth as the shelves and just cut to desire height. it looks like they're about 3 feet deep, so i'd say you need to buy 3 1x8s at 6 feet long for the shelves and probably 1 more for the risers. then i'd buy a really really good quality plywood to do the backs of the bottom sections. i'd join all of the pieces together with Kreg jig pocket holes. I'd build the "floating" sections first, as it looks like they are just 2 1x8s for the shelves at 3' each and then 2 risers for each one, probably at 6 inches or so high.

Tsu Dho Nimh

Thu, 04/07/2011 - 07:15

WOW - very pretty. But its sleekness demands more skill than something "rustic". Any bobbles or wobbles or flaws in the material will show.

To make it work, you need top-quality absolutely flat unwarped wood, and it's thicker than standard. That's not a problem with MDF (they use ash veneered MDF), but you would have to use 2 layers of furniture-grade plywood, with edge-banding to hide the plywood.

Or make the shelves and supports like Ana's "floating shelf" or "barn shelf - a wood sandwich.

Getting the shelves squared demands absolutely precise cutting, screwing, and gluing, and clamping.

The backing is one piece with two very precisely placed cutouts. If you make it two pieces, you lose strength. They can do it with a computer-controlled laser cutter.

Start with the $10 ledges or a couple of storage crates for practice, making them as perfectly as possible. then evaluate your skill level.

Pam the Goatherd

Fri, 04/08/2011 - 06:45

This would be very simple to do, but as Tsu Doh Nimh says, you'll have to make the back one piece because the integrity of the entire table depends on it being sturdy enough to support everything.

I would work with 1"x12" for the shelves and supports/risers and good quality 1" plywood for the back if you can find it.  If not, then 3/4" is as thin as I would go.

You do realize that the wraparound is actually two separate identical units, right?

To figure out how long and tall you want it to be you will have to measure the sofa or chair that you want to put it with. The shelves should be cut that long.  The distance between the bottom piece and the middle shelf should be 12", so you'll cut that support/riser at 12".  Then you'll have to measure the actual thickness of your boards to figure out how tall to make the support/riser between the middle and top shelves so that your unit is the height that will work best with your sofa.

In order to make the back piece "hide" under the top shelf you will need to rip/trim the bottom and middle shelves and both risers so that they are narrower than the top shelf by the thickness of the back board.

You will need to figure out how far in from the ends that the supports/risers go based on the measurements for you particular space.  They should both be placed the same distance in from the ends of the shelves.  It looks like they placed them somewhere between 1/4 and 1/3 in from the ends so that the center space is about 1 1/2 times as long as the end spaces. (I hope that makes sense when you are reading it cuz it's really hard to put into words rather than drawing, but my skill with the plan drawing software is non-existent).

I would assemble the bottom and middle shelves and both supports/risers before cutting the back piece, screwing and gluing the supports/risers to the shelves by screwing through the shelves (I don't think using a Kreg jig for this will give it the sturdiness that it needs). Once you have the shelves and supports together and square you can cut your back piece to fit exactly by laying the assembled shelves on the board and tracing the cut-outs (make sure all is perfectly square before doing any tracing or cutting.

After you make your cut-outs you can then attach the back by screwing into both the shelves and supports.  Finally attach the top by screwing and gluing it to the support and the back board.

I would paint this piece rather than stain it to cover up the screw holes.

This table would probably look good with Ana's Step Up Side Table and Rolling C End Table. They are very similar in the sleek, modern look.

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