Free step by step woodworking plans to make an industrial style Farmhouse Table. Features metal stretcher and lots of details to make your table interesting and unique.
We also have matching bench plans available here.

Preparation
6 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long
2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - Black Iron Pipe 60" long, both ends threaded Bolts/Caps and Washers for decorative touches
4 - 6" Black Bolts with washer and Nuts (1/4" would work fine)
Legs
- 4 - 1x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
- 4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
- 4 - 2x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
- 2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2" (End Aprons)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 31" (Stretcher)
- 8 - 1x2 @ 4 1/4" (One end cut at 10 degree angle, longest point measurement)
- 4 - 1x2 @ 16 1/8 (cut to fit - spacer)
Table
- 2 - 2x6 @ 45 1/4" (Side Aprons - short point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square)
- 3 - 2x2 @ 20" (Supports)
- 2 - 2x2 @ 67" (Sides)
- 2 - 2x2 @ 30" (Ends)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 33"
- 2 - 1x4 @ 33"
- 6 - 1x6 @ 67 1/8" (cut to fit)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
We'll start by making the legs. The most important part of the legs is getting your cuts right. Some of the cuts are bevels and some are angles, so pay attention in the diagrams. All angles will be ten degrees off square. Remember, you will need to assemble two sets of legs, and the legs are mirrors of each other. You can use finish nails and glue. Start by attaching the 1x4 to the top 1x2 as shown above.
Step 2
Step 3
Step 7
Step 9
Bolt the breadboard end on as shown above. Use 6" bolts with washers as done here.
Step 11
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Ashley Ez (not verified)
Mon, 07/25/2011 - 14:44
Winter?!?!?
I can't even imagine already thinking about winter! We still have sunny, HOT days ahead of us AT LEAST through November. And usually Christmas day is spent in shorts here on the gulf coast. Gorgeous plans!
bulcaoma
Tue, 07/26/2011 - 13:46
rectangle hardware fittings?
I like the look of the rectangular iron hardware at the base, but no idea where to purchase this or if I'll have to 'fake it' with paint and wood. Any thoughts. I've worked through how to finish out the pipe with fittings, but still stumped on this.
Also thinking of making it expandable at the breadboards rather than middle(easier and the base can be fixed)--rockler.com has some extensions that do this.
Guest (not verified)
Thu, 08/04/2011 - 05:11
Mistake in cutting directions??
Just finished the legs...I think the "4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)" direction should read "one end cut at 10 degree angle, other end square" it created a 10 degree gap where the 2x4 stretcher meets and Im trying to figure out the best way to fill it...am I wrong? Either way I have this gap to deal with :\
Allie (not verified)
Fri, 08/12/2011 - 14:45
You are correct
There is a mistake in the cutting directions. I got lucky and only had enough scrap to get one and a half legs done before I had to run out and get more, so only one of my legs are goofed. After I stained it, your don't even notice.
C (not verified)
Wed, 08/01/2012 - 16:14
Quite right. I had to trim
Quite right. I had to trim the 1x2 to make the bottom edge square, and lengthen the 4 1/4" 1x2. Luckily I hadn't cut the 4 1/4 piece yet before I realized something didn't seem right.
mebohn
Thu, 10/13/2011 - 07:26
Anyone added depth?
Has anyone made it 38" deep like the PB table dimensions? If I tweak it, will it make the table less sturdy? I'm just thinking 33 1/2" might be too narrow. Please let me know if you've done this already!! Thanks!
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 12/26/2011 - 16:41
Desk adaptation?
Has anyone tried adapting this for a large writing desk?
Thanks!
Guest (not verified)
Wed, 01/18/2012 - 16:32
Added depth
It would be easy enough to modify the depth/width, just add an extra 1x6 to the top and make all width measurements 5 1/2 inches wider and that should line up just fine. Your legs would be wider apart which could/should make the table more stable.
Guest (not verified)
Thu, 01/19/2012 - 18:01
there seems to be an additional problem
there seems to be an additional problem with the legs.
the cut list has 2 - 2x6 @ 38 1/2 for end aprons the diagram shows the end aprons at 29"
what is the length that should be used?
thanks
Guest (not verified)
Thu, 01/19/2012 - 18:07
above problem
that should read 2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2 not 38.