Classic Storage Bed (King)

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 08/07/2019 - 12:56
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If you can build a bench, you can build this storage bed.  It's simply three benches!  Optional drawers can add functionality.  Features six oversized cubbies, no box spring is required.  Our step by step plans are easy to follow and include a full shopping list and cut list.

This plan is also available in a Queen version.

platform style diy king storage bed easy to build

Reader submitted photo by Twenty Six 2 Life

storage bed pieces

wood storage bed frame dimensions
Standard king dimensions, sized for mattress 76" wide x 80" long


Shopping List
  • 2 - sheets of 3/4" thick cabinet grade plywood, you can also use MDF or AC plywood for painted finishes
  • 1 - 4x8 sheet of 1/4" thick plywood 
  • 5 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

*For a stained finish, cabinet grade plywood is recommended.  For a painted finish you can use MDF (not fun to work with but inexpensive) or AC Plywood (will need more sanding but also less expensive)



  • 3 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - sheet of 1/4" thick plywood
  • 6 - 18" drawer slides
  • 2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long - cut two drawer shorter and one longer drawer face from each board to fit everything on the boards
Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

SIDE BENCHES (BUILD 2 - Follow Queen Plans)

  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 19-3/4" x 60"
  • 6 - 3/4" plywood @ 19-3/4" x 14-3/4"
  • 4 - 3/4" plywood @ 19-3/4" x 28-7/8"
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 15-1/2" x 60"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 60"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 60"
  • 9 - 1x2 @ 11-1/4"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 60" - back cleats


  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 19-3/4" x 76"
  • 3 - 3/4" plywood @ 19-3/4" x 14-3/4"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 19-3/4" x 36-7/8"
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 15-1/2" x 76"
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 76"
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 11-1/4"
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 76"
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 20-3/4"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 20-3/4"
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 11-1/4"


OPTIONAL DRAWERS FOR KING END BENCH - measure and cut drawers to fit openings and drawer slides

  • 4 - 1x4 @ 18"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 18"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 32-7/8"
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 34-3/8" x 18"
  • 2 - 1x12 @ ~35-1/2" 

OPTIONAL DRAWERS FOR QUEEN SIDE BENCHES - measure and cut to fit openings and drawer slides

  • 8 - 1x4 @ 18"
  • 8 - 1x6 @ 18"
  • 8 - 1x6 @ 24-7/8"
  • 4 - 1/4" plywood @ 36-3/8" x 18"
Cutting Instructions

For three sheets of 3/4" plywood:

  • Rip lengthwise into 6 strips, 8 feet long by 19-3/4" wide
  • From these strips, first cut the 60" long pieces
  • From scraps, cut remaining pieces
  • There will be three scraps, 8 feet long by about 7-1/2" wide.  Save this scrap piece and use as the cleat at the back of the side benches

For the 1/4" plywood

  • Rip plywood into strips, 8 feet long x 15-1/2" wide
  • From these strips, cut the backs for the three benches

For the trim and face frame pieces, a compound miter saw is recommended for nice cuts.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

This bed is made up of three benches.

The two side benches are identical to the queen bed.  Follow the instructions in the queen bed to build two side benches.  Add the cleats for the mattress slats to the backs of the side benches.

The end bench for the king only differs in overall length from the queen.  The steps are listed below for your convenience.


Step 2

Build the end bench with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Three screws per joint is sufficient.

Step 3

Attach back with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 4

Build the face frame first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Nail completed face frame to front of bench with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 5

Build the end bench trim face frame first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails to sides of end bench.

Step 6

Assemble the three benches in the room.  You can screw benches together if necessary.

Cut scrap plywood pieces to fit in cavity and screw to slats on backs of side benches.

Step 7


Drawers are optional.  

Draw a line on 1x4s, 1" up from bottom edge of 1x4.

Attach drawer slides to the 1x4, with front edge of drawer slide cabinet member flush with front edge of 1x4.

The holes in the center of the drawer slide should line up with your pencil mark, 1" up from bottom edge of 1x4 - so you know your slides are being installed level.

Remember that the opposing drawer slide needs to be installed in mirror.

Set the 1x4s inside the cubbies and nail to the sides of the cubbies with 1-1/4" brad nails.  The front edge should be lined up with the front edge of your plywood carcasses.

Step 8

Build drawer boxes to fit drawer slide width.  Measure the distance between the 1x4s, subtract the drawer slide clearances (usually 1" for 1/2" on each drawer slide) and build drawers to this size.

If your opening is true - 35-3/8" - AND your drawer slides require 1/2" clearance (1" overall) AND your drawer box material is 3/4" thick, you can follow the dimensions shown.

Step 9

Install drawers into the slides.

Cut 1x12 faces and adjust to fit.  You may need to sand down edges for a perfect fit, or cut drawer faces down with a table saw.  There should be an even gap around all edges, about 1/8" on all sides.

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In reply to by Jeff P (not verified)


Sat, 10/22/2011 - 23:24

Jeff, any luck on figuring out the undermount drawer slides? I just spent far too many hours scouring the internet learning all about drawer slides (my head hurts! omg there is so much info and so many options and so many little idiosyncrasies amongst all the different was so confusing, so all I could do was read read read read more...and hope they weren't all SOOO expensive). What it seems to come down to is that all the hassle with this particular set of drawers comes from the trim on the front making the drawer so far from the side panels (so it's difficult to side-mount your slides) AND because the drawers are inset (aka flush with the frame, as opposed to an overlay, where the drawer face is on the outside of the frame). I narrowed it down to three undermount slides that were within my budget - one claimed it was for overlay drawers (mounts to the inside of the frame), one for inset drawers (was unclear what that mounted to), and the other for overlay drawer (but mounting to the side wall this time). I ended up just buying the frame-mounting slides for overlay drawers because it was a superrrr deal ($18 for 10 pairs, including S&H). I have no idea if they will work, but I can post back here if I find a way to do it. Otherwise, you could just fiddle with the design a bit to be able to use more common (and cheaper) drawer slides - i.e. make the drawers an overlay design instead of inset, and/or add some wood blocking inside the drawer box behind the face trim to have something to mount the slides to. I will have to play with it once I start building and see if I have any other suggestions :)


Sat, 10/22/2011 - 23:59

You know what...after giving my mind a few minutes away from the computer to rest, it suddenly occurred to me... Most of the applications I was seeing undermount slides used in were for kitchen cabinets, where there is no bottom "floor" in the cabinet. So, the slides have to attach to *something* in the cabinet...thus the side-mount, face-mount, rear-mount brackets, etc that were out there. Now that I think of it, none of them mentioned how the application could possibly change if there were in fact a floor that you could mount the brackets to. So, I'm hoping that it's just as simple as that...the brackets I ordered will just be able to mount to the floor and I can be done with it and happy that I got a great deal :)

Also, you could probably get away with using some center-mount slides (which are technically also in the category of undermount). With drawers this big though, I would make sure to put at least a couple of them on there. And try to use metal and wood guides and slides where possible. Those crappy plastic guides are guaranteed to break with any normal usage of the drawers. (But hey, they're super cheap, so if you don't mind the work of repairing them every so often and are not afraid of your drawers getting dinged up a bit when they fall off the slide, then go for it!)

Anyway, like I said, I'll update once I actually get the slides I ordered and start actually building my drawer boxes :)

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 11/25/2011 - 12:55

Someone was asking about undercount drawer slides. I got mine from Rockler Woodworking. Low-Tec Hardwood sliders for about $11.00 each. But I also put support on the bottom of the drawer openings so the drawers wouldn't tilt from side to side when open. They work pretty well and were super easy to mount.

Here's my version of the bed.

Michelle McDonald (not verified)

Mon, 07/09/2012 - 20:53

thanks for sharing your your bed. would you mind sharing an approx cost of the project? i am wanting to get this started and would like to budget it out. I think it would be a great weekend project. thanks

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 01/07/2012 - 15:14

I am about to embark on making this KING bed! I have some spare time on my hands before my baby is due in April. I just need some conformation on a couple things I'm confused about. I see this it has been addressed in an earlier blog but I want to dbl check. This is my first time building anything and I have little help. My husband thinks I cant nor shouldn't do this but Im out to set him straight;)

1. Will the adjustment measurement of 23 1/ 2 for the foot/end bench(I assume these are the same) be reflected in the measurement of B) 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 20" x 15 of the first cut list,("Cutting List for 2 Benches Same as Queen") or does this measurement stay as is?

2. As mentioned above the king drawer measurement is the same as the queen drawer measurements.
So am I to cut the width of the king drawers to the size of the box measurement once they are created? Is that why there is no precise measurement?
Im confused about this bc in an earlier blog its stated they are the same measurements of the queen but need to be adjusted a little wider for the King meaning this can only be determined by me for my bed once I'm at that point.

I hope this isnt too wordy, Ive tried to be as clear and concise about my questions as possible.
Thank you very much for any input you have on these issues and any warnings you wish to share.


Sat, 01/07/2012 - 20:44

I am the last person to discourage someone from taking on a project, but if you have never built anything before, this might not be the best plan to start with. Any project with drawers must be pretty square to work properly and as a first time builder, that might be frustrating. Any chance you'd like to use baskets in the drawer openings instead? That would change the plan to more of a beginner project...

Best of luck whatever you decide to do!! Sorry I can't help more with your specific questions--I built this bed, but it was in a twin :)