Classic Storage Wall, Extra Wide Media Unit

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 01/19/2010 - 22:40
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This extra wide media base is sturdy and solid, featuring ample storage. If you need more storage, simply add storage bases and hutches to create an entire media suite from other plans in the Classic Storage Collection.

Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.

62" Wide x 25" Deep x 22 1/2" Tall


Shopping List
  • 2 – Sheet of 3/4″ A1 Plywood in desired Species or MDF if you are painting 
  • 1 – 1×3 at least 62″ Long 
  • 2 – 1×2 
  • 1 – 2 1/2 base moulding (optional) 
  • 1 – sheet of 3/8 Plywood or MDF (matching your A1 if you are staining the project) 
  • 2 – Sets of either butterfly hinges or Face Frame Euro Hinges 
  • 2 – Pulls or Knobs 
  • 8 – Shelf Pins
    Edge Banding (If you are staining the project)
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List
  • A) 1 – 1×24 @ 60 1/2″ (Bottom) 
  • B) 2 – 1×24 @ 19 1/4″ (Middle Partitions) 
  • C) 2 – 1×24 @ 21 3/4″ (Sides) 
  • D) 1 – 1×24 @ 62″ (Top) 
  • E) 1- 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 62″ x 22 1/2″ (Back) 
  • F) 1- 1×3 @ 62″ (Bottom Trim) 
  • G) 2 – 1×2 @ 62″ (Top Trim and Top Edge Trim) 
  • H) 2 – 1×2 @ 17 3/4″ (Side Trim)
    Optional Base Moulding, 2 1/2″ overall height, 62″ Long
    2 – 1×24 @ 28″ (Shelves)
    Door Cut List – Recommend measuring the opening in the drawer and building the drawer 1/4″ smaller thean the overall opening. Remember that the door will cover the middle partitions, as shown in the diagrams. These dimensions give are the ideal door dimensions. 
  •  I) 2 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 17 1/4″ x 15 1/4″ (Backs of Doors) 
  • J) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 15 1/4″ (Rails on the Doors) 
  • K) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 14 1/4″ (Stiles on the Doors)
Cutting Instructions

A 1x24 is simply 3/4" plywood ripped into 23 1/2" wide strips, 8 feet long. You can get two 1x24s out of each sheet of plywood. This system is used to ease building, creating straighter cuts, and conserve wood. Most plans on use standard width boards for these reasons and more.
If you cannot find 3/8″ plywood, you can use 1/2″ plywood for the backs and 1/4″ stock (for example maple 1/4″ thick x 1 1/2″ wide). Hobby stock is available at our local Blue store in a wide variety.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. From 2 of the 1×24 boards, cut the the top and a shelf, and the bottom and a shelf. Then cut the remaining sides and middle partitions out of a third 1×24. You will have one 1×24 leftover for future projects.

Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue.

My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy.

Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.


Step 1

Bottom and Middle Partitions. Fasten with 2″ fasteners the bottom, A, to the middle pieces, B (green) as shown above.

Step 2

Sides. Use the 2″ fasteners to fasten the sides to the bottom as shown above. There will be a 1 3/4″ clearnance under the bottom shelf.

Step 3

Top. Fasten the top to the sides and middle partitions, as shown above. Use the 2″ fasteners. Make sure you fasten the middle partitions to the measurements shown above.

Step 4

Back. Fasten the back with 1 1/4″ fasteners to the top, bottom, sides and middle partition, as shown in the above diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Trim. Fasten the top trim in place, as shown above. Be sure to fasten to the middle partitions and the sides. You will not be able to fasten to the top. See next step.

Step 7

Top Edge Trim. Fasten the top edge trim in place, as shown below. Make sure you fasten through the face of the trim into the top of the project.

Step 8

Side Trim. Fasten the side trim to the base unit, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 9

Doors. Test your backs to make sure they fit in the openings. Notice how the doors cover the middle partition. Use 5/8″ fasteners, lots of glue and clamps to fasten the rails to the back of the doors, as shown above.

Step 10

Door Stiles. Fasten the stiles, as directed in step 9, to the doors. Lay flat to dry, preferably with something heavy on top. If you are staining the project, you will need to add edge banding to the top and inside edges of the doors. This is easy and inexpensive to do (see HOW-TO section for a post on Choosing your Wood).
After you have finished the project, attach the doors to the cabinet using either butterfly hinges or euro hinges for face framed cabinets.

Step 11

Optional Base Moulding. If you would like to dress the base up, add moulding as shown above. The moulding will need to be less than 2 1/2″ in overall width.

Step 12

Shelves. Determine where you will place your shelves. Drill holes 1″ from the front and 1″ from the back on both middle partitions, 1/2″ deep, with a 1/4″ drill bit, where the base of the shelf will sit. Insert shelf pins and place your shelf in the base unit. If you are staining your base unit, you will need to add edge banding to the front edge of the shelves.

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Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 01/28/2010 - 07:22

Hi Christy, the doors need to be 1/4" less than the overall opening to allow the doors to open and close. Sometimes when you build you can get "off" a little, making the distance greater than the measurements given. Sometimes its not you, sometimes the boards that you select can be slightly narrower than they should be, making your doors get a little off. If you have yet to cut your doors, take overall measurments and then subtract 1/4" from the overall opening on the height and width. Then build your doors to these dimensions.

If you have already cut your plywood backs, you can cut your stiles slightly longer, and have your bottom rail sit over (not flush) with the bottom of the plywood. You will never see this. But make sure you keep the top edges flush.

Heather (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 09:14

I am so incredibly excited! I found your site last week via apartment therapy and have been poring over it all week. My dad is so good at woodworking and I have always been intimidated. Well, he and I are going to build this together! He's going to teach me all he knows and then I plan on going on my own from there. Thank you sooooo much for this site!!

Heather (not verified)

Fri, 03/05/2010 - 09:41

Love this. I am picturing in in my tv/family room. It is so beautiful, I can't wait till we come off our spending freeze (dog needed surgery).

Angela (not verified)

Tue, 05/18/2010 - 12:28

Do you have Gail's measurements for the smaller media stand? I am only interested in the middle portion. Thanks!

orange sugar (not verified)

Fri, 07/16/2010 - 17:01

Hi Ana. I'm getting ready to build this with a few modifications in dimensions and working on my cutting layout.

One thing I wanted to point out. Shelves for the sides, behind the doors, aren't included in the cut list. I'm assuming people would want shelves in there, right?

Brian (not verified)

Wed, 04/20/2011 - 12:10

I found your site looking for a cheaper alternative to buying the furniture at the store, which could cost thousands.  I built a desk and two bookcases that I found here all for under $100 a piece.  Thank you for helping people who don't have thousands to spend on quality furniture.  This console is definitely next on the list. 

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 02/04/2012 - 14:23

This is awesome, going to try it as my first projet. One problem..the images don't size fully so I can't see all the measurements?