DIY Greenhouse plans - build your own DIY greenhouse, free step by step plans by ANA-WHITE.com
Building your own greenhouse is something you can tackle and save a ton. We built this greenhouse about six years ago, and it still looks brand new and is as sturdy as ever. We are happy to share our plans with you - see below.
Here's some photos of the build -
Near completion of the framing stage. We used 12' long pieces of corrugated metal roofing for the side walls.
We ran the corrugated roofing horizontal. This was very easy to install and we have had zero issues with this design.
We also trimmed the corners out with metal flashing to make everything look nice and finished.
The greenhouse plastic wrapped right over the corrugated metal - like it was meant to be!
The only part that was slightly tricky was the ends - but really no big deal to add the greenhouse plastic panels.
Our DIY greenhouse turned out great and we are so excited to share the plans with you.
Please post a pic or share if you build!
Preparation
- 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long - use on back wall
- 5 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long - use on sides/ridgepole DO NOT CUT
- 32 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 11 - 12 foot x 26" standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panels
- 1 - 8 foot long x 26" wide standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panel (use on door side)
- 3 - 12 foot long tin panels (use on sides and back)
- 1 - 8 foot long tin panel (use on front)
- Tin screws
- 28 - 4' long ribbing strips
- L flashing (optional for the corners)
- You'll need either metal gussets for the trusses or to cut plywood ones from 1/2" plywood
Cut list is in plan at each step
Instructions
Step 1
Back wall framing. Cut 2x4s as listed below. Screw together with 3" screws or nail together.
- 2 – 2x4 @ 118 3/8”
- 6 – 2X4 @ 32”
Step 2
Side Wall Framing - Build TWO
- 4 – 2X4 @ 144”
- 14 – 2X4 @ 32”
Step 3
Front Wall Framing
- 4 – 2X4 @ 32”
- 4 – 2X4 @ 42 ½”
- 2 – 2X4 @ 81 ½”
- 1 – 2X4 @ 33 3/8”
Build the front walls as shown.
Step 4
Attach the four walls together with 3" screws at corners.
Step 5
Step 6
- 4 – 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
- 1 – 2X4 @ 117 7/8” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 1/2" DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
- 1 – 2X4 @ 55 3/8 (TOP CUT TO DOGEARED POINT, 22 ½ DEGREES)
- 2 – 2X4 @ 55 ¼” (TOP CUT TO DOGREARED POINT, BOTTOM CUT 45 DEGREES OFF SQUARE, END CLIPPED)
The back truss is built same as front. See next step for close up of the center cuts
Step 7
This board was a little tricky to cut - practice first!
Step 8
1 – 2X4 @ 141”
NOTE: If you use gussets - we used 1/2" plywood - this will affect your ridgepole length.
Step 9
- 10 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
- 10 2X4 @ 47 1/4” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT PARALLEL) - shorter rafters go up to meet the ridgepole. I marked all shorter rafters to avoid confusion.
For the common rafters of this barn style greenhouse, we ended up using plywood gussets to save money. After cutting quite a few, I figured out how to cut gussets the super quick and easy way - got gusset cutting down to less than a minute each.
We put gussets on both sides of each rafter joint with glue and screws. We made all of the small trusses first on the ground, then it was just a matter of stacking them on the ridgepole and attaching to the studs. We used 8 screws per gusset. Common rafters are installed flush to top of ridgepole and flush to outside of side walls. We had to "toenail" the screws in - meaning they are screwed in at an angle. We used glue and 3" screws from both sides.
Step 10
The plan will get you through the framing.
At this point, you could use plastic paper, lexan glass panels, you name it to seal the frame in.
We used the corrugated plastic panels detailed earlier for installation. IMPORTANT: If you do not use panels you will need some sort of lateral support to keep the greenhouse from swaying side to side. Try 12 foot long 2x4s.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Frosty Garden
Wed, 01/27/2021 - 11:44
You can do any length you…
You can do any length you want on the studs, technically. We used 32" on ours, which allowed us to get (3) studs per 2x4x8 when you split the kerf. We guessed that the original plans were for 33", but it was later realized this was very lumber inefficient.
gfm2965
Fri, 03/05/2021 - 09:47
RE: Question on lower wall studs
Thanks for your response! But it does make a significant difference, 32" or 33" studs. For one thing, the tin panels are 36" wide, and the 33" studs bring the wall height to exactly 36" Using a shorter stud means an inch extra on the panels, so you would need to cut an inch off (a pain). Also, the height of the tall verticals supporting the ridgepole depend on this measurement, so what height should they be? Thanks again!