DIY Greenhouse

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 03/04/2019 - 16:31
Difficulty
Intermediate
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DIY Greenhouse plans - build your own DIY greenhouse, free step by step plans by ANA-WHITE.com

Building your own greenhouse is something you can tackle and save a ton.  We built this greenhouse about six years ago, and it still looks brand new and is as sturdy as ever.  We are happy to share our plans with you - see below.

Here's some photos of the build -

 

Near completion of the framing stage. We used 12' long pieces of corrugated metal roofing for the side walls.

We ran the corrugated roofing horizontal.  This was very easy to install and we have had zero issues with this design.

We also trimmed the corners out with metal flashing to make everything look nice and finished.

The greenhouse plastic wrapped right over the corrugated metal - like it was meant to be!

 

The only part that was slightly tricky was the ends - but really no big deal to add the greenhouse plastic panels.

 

Our DIY greenhouse turned out great and we are so excited to share the plans with you.

 

 

 

Please post a pic or share if you build!

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above for the DIY Greenhouse. It's a good size for a standard family of 4 or 5

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long - use on back wall
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long - use on sides/ridgepole DO NOT CUT
  • 32 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 11 - 12 foot x 26" standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panels
  • 1 - 8 foot long x 26" wide standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panel (use on door side)
  • 3 - 12 foot long tin panels (use on sides and back)
  • 1 - 8 foot long tin panel (use on front)
  • Tin screws
  • 28 - 4' long ribbing strips
  • L flashing (optional for the corners)
  • You'll need either metal gussets for the trusses or to cut plywood ones from 1/2" plywood
Common Materials
3 inch screws
Cut List

Cut list is in plan at each step

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Back wall framing.  Cut 2x4s as listed below.  Screw together with 3" screws or nail together.

  • 2 – 2x4 @ 118 3/8”
  • 6 – 2X4 @ 32”

 

Step 2

Side Wall Framing - Build TWO

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 144”
  • 14 – 2X4 @ 32”

 

Step 3

Front Wall Framing

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 32”
  • 4 – 2X4 @ 42 ½”
  • 2 – 2X4 @ 81 ½”
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 33 3/8”

Build the front walls as shown.

Step 4

Attach the four walls together with 3" screws at corners.

Step 5

Step 6

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 117 7/8” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 1/2" DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 55 3/8 (TOP CUT TO DOGEARED POINT, 22 ½ DEGREES)
  • 2 – 2X4 @ 55 ¼” (TOP CUT TO DOGREARED POINT, BOTTOM CUT 45 DEGREES OFF SQUARE, END CLIPPED)

The back truss is built same as front. See next step for close up of the center cuts

Step 7

This board was a little tricky to cut - practice first!

Step 8

1 – 2X4 @ 141”

NOTE: If you use gussets - we used 1/2" plywood - this will affect your ridgepole length. 

Step 9

 

  • 10 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT PARALLEL)

  • 10 2X4 @ 47 1/4” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT PARALLEL) - shorter rafters go up to meet the ridgepole.  I marked all shorter rafters to avoid confusion.

 

For the common rafters of this barn style greenhouse, we ended up using plywood gussets to save money. After cutting quite a few, I figured out how to cut gussets the super quick and easy way - got gusset cutting down to less than a minute each.

We put gussets on both sides of each rafter joint with glue and screws. We made all of the small trusses first on the ground, then it was just a matter of stacking them on the ridgepole and attaching to the studs. We used 8 screws per gusset. Common rafters are installed flush to top of ridgepole and flush to outside of side walls. We had to "toenail" the screws in - meaning they are screwed in at an angle. We used glue and 3" screws from both sides.

Step 10

The plan will get you through the framing.

At this point, you could use plastic paper, lexan glass panels, you name it to seal the frame in.

We used the corrugated plastic panels detailed earlier for installation. IMPORTANT: If you do not use panels you will need some sort of lateral support to keep the greenhouse from swaying side to side. Try 12 foot long 2x4s. 

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Kim from Texas (not verified)

Sat, 08/25/2012 - 17:08

Well now, that's about the cutest lil greenhouse I ever did see! My husband and I were inpsired. We bought the materials and we'll be constructing the "lil cutie" next week. I read the post about the horizontal placement of sheeting along with the one on venting. Snow is not an issue in our part of Texas but we do have lots of rain. We are using environmentally recommended treated lumber for the entire project. I will take notice and comment how it holds up over time. (I do not think it'll be a problem) We will, however, need some sort of venting for mid summer as it's disgustingly hot down here. However, we thought the plan was laid out perfectly fine for our needs. We will figure out the venting problem next summer. I'll let you know how it works for our weather and I'll post a link to your site onto our site along with pics after it all said and done. Thanks again!! The Reshards

In reply to by Kim from Texas (not verified)

FernDawg

Mon, 10/14/2013 - 13:03

Seriously...the Gambrel framing is great however Ana got it all wrong with the corrugated polycarbonate (not corrugated glass as she stated). Rain or snow it will rot the wood eventually because water will leak in. Also she should have used foam gaskets/inserts instead of wood. Wood will rot.
Here's a link for Lexan Corrugated Polycarbonate panel installation

http://www.hobby-greenhouse.com/lexan.htm

Actually the metal side walls should be vertical as well.

Vi Wood (not verified)

Fri, 09/07/2012 - 09:19

Ana,

Can't thank you enough for the plans, we've been looking for some plans for a long time now.
However I will build the greenhouse double length, I need a larger greenhouse and will make the pitch on the roof steeper.

A vent is a must and if I need heat then I will build one of this solar panel: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2007/04/26/almost-free-garage-heat-j…

Good luck planting your dream garden.

Liv (not verified)

Sat, 09/08/2012 - 19:01

This is amazing! Thank you so much for sharing the plans and sharing the knowledge to the community out here! We appreciate it. I know what you mean about putting things off until you decide "why not RIGHT NOW?" That's how I've finally started getting things done!

I miss Alaska like crazy; I love living vicariously through other people's blogs!


Liv

Heidi from the… (not verified)

Sat, 10/06/2012 - 15:53

Hubby and I want to have a green house really bad and this just might fit the bill.
Wondering if you secured it to the ground? We get wind storms and I know that it blew away one of those metal kit garden sheds you can buy.

NormaJean Mahar (not verified)

Sun, 10/07/2012 - 10:38

I really like the looks of this greenhouse. It also looks easy to build. What I have a question about is, shouldn't the plastic greenhouse panels be turned the other way for people who live in the Northern climates where there is sometimes 1-3 ft. of snow? Othen that I really love this idea.

Guest named Gary (not verified)

Sat, 10/13/2012 - 07:10

Nice page however it's unfortunate you attached the corrugated polycarbonate horizontally which is not recommended by Sabic, Sun Tuff etc. The panel should be
installed with the hills and valleys aligned vertically. This allows snow ( I would imagine in Alaska you get plenty of snow) to slide off the roof and looks a lot better. See greenhouses at hobby-greenhouse.com to see what I mean they use Lexan Corrugated I purchased on a few years back.

leonardo85

Thu, 10/18/2012 - 04:51

We need to save our environment so that our future generation can have a secure shelter. The more we resort to nature and its elements the better for us. Medicines that are made with herbal essence are way better for you. For instance, Kratom has healing properties, so look for natural solutions for you, this is the best way to save our dear old planet.

Jack and Pams Place (not verified)

Fri, 12/07/2012 - 05:15

Hi there, I am semi retired and my wife and I are looking to open a small Business on our 30 acres. We both love gardening and making candles, birdhouses and such. I am curious about the greenhouse plans I found of yours while searching. I see people asking about a smaller version but what if I make it say, 20 ft long? Just adjust the measurements as I would with the shorter version I would think. I would like to attach a shed, store to it and it looks like if I build the trusses closer together it would take the winter snow. I may just make the outside walls higher for the head room and butt the greenhouse to it. Any thoughts? Am I on the right track with it? Thanks in advance, Jack and Pam

teresa hansen (not verified)

Sat, 12/08/2012 - 08:28

hey ana the green house looks great i just have a few questions 1. Im relatively new at this and my husband and sons and ok me we built this beautiful green house frame out of angle iron and outside out of plexiglass we snagged a deal at the local restore from habitat for humanity but the plexiglass is not durable on the outside so we r going to have to replace it with that corrugated stuff you have on yours,Im curious if it islong lasting in the conditions up there in alaska and we were thinking of angling it the other way so as to allow the snow here in utah to fall off the roof but still not sure give me your best synopsis please. 2. also the heating and cooling we only need it for maybe a 6-8 weeks prior to planting so the best possible economical outcome that you have found woud be most helpful. excited spring planter Teresa!