Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/28/2019 - 16:18
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy.  It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out.  You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands. 

Reader submitted photo by JHAVINGA

Collections
beautiful farmhouse bed in king size

The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.

farmhouse bed grey paint

I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out.  And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.

The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.

 

What Wood Do You Use

We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards.  You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").

 

Matching Nightstands

This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands.  I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!

matching farmhouse nightstands

 

Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans

We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes.  You can still access the old plans here.

If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Dimensions
Dimensions diagram for king farmhouse bed
Designed to fit STANDARD king approximately 76" x 80

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 4x4, 8 feet long

1 - 2x2, 8 feet long

7 - 1x6, 8 feet long

4 - 1x4, 8 feet long

2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long

18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)

2 straight brackets (6" overall length)

150 - 1-1/4" brad nails

150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)

*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats.  You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand

 

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit

 

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats

2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit

 

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports

1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit

4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs

2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"

11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws

 

NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step

Step 2

Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.

Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.

Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.

Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram) 

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.

Step 3

Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue.  Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step

Step 4

Measure the top overall width.  Cut a 2x4 to this width.  Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.

Step 5

Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.  

Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.  

If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.

Step 7

Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.

Step 8

Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs.  Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.

This completes the footboard.

Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.

Step 9

Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.

Step 10

Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.

Step 11

Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3

Step 12

Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.

We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.

Step 13

Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.

Comments

jaycobkramer

Fri, 07/17/2020 - 13:51

I love the design. I have the lumber in the garage and about to put it into motion. One question about color: What paint or stain did you use in the initial picture. It's the distressed off white color with black or brown coming through the off white color?

awcahoon

Sat, 08/08/2020 - 09:29

I want to build this bed and I'm trying to figure out if I should go with pocket holes vs no pocket holes. Any thoughts about that? I have the pocket hole jig and I get that it's easier to build without them. I assume that there are visible screwheads with this plan and wondering if the bed looks better without them. Any other considerations?

NyRangers34

Mon, 09/14/2020 - 07:57

Does anyone have pictures of this plan with cove molding inside the panels and under the 2x6's? Thinking of adding a tiny bit of detail.

MrWiggles

Mon, 09/28/2020 - 07:44

Just built this bed - thanks so much, Ana, your directions made it easy. I had to alter the plans for a 10" thick foam king mattress but all I had to do was lengthen the headboard slats and cleats by 2 inches, or there would be a big gap between mattress and headboard. Also for the center legs I used pocket holes to attach to the footboard - I didn't want to use screws through the footboard, keep it clean. This site rocks!

NyRangers34

Fri, 10/02/2020 - 18:27

Great plans. Changed some specs to fit a 5" box spring and rails 8" off the floor. Also adjusted the rail and support length to give some space for comforter and quilt to tuck between footboard and mattress. and instead of screwing through the footboard panels into the two by four middle supports, use 2x2s at the same level as the side cleats on the footboard for the side supports and toenail or toe screw into those.

boettg33

Sat, 10/31/2020 - 04:09

Ana

We have an older Sleep Number mattress that has a plastic base. First question is do you know if this bed would work with this mattress? Second question would be if we could eliminate the plastic base by putting down a sheet of some type over the center legs?

Thank you

Jason

boettg33

Sat, 11/07/2020 - 06:42

Please let me know about my questions above. If you don't know, I'm going to go ahead with the build and make modifications to suit removing the plastic base of the Sleep Number bed. Most likely I'll put down a thin sheet of product over the legs center legs to support the top mattress.

I'm going to build this for my wife for X-mas. Throughout the build process I am going to document with pictures and comments on Instagram, @zen2185.RI. The build process will not be posted until after X-mas. You will get full credit for the design and I'll put links to the design and your wonderful site.