Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers (Queen)

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 09/25/2018 - 23:40
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Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed in queen size.

Also check out our Full and Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed plans.

farmhouse bed with storage drawers
farmhouse storage bed dimensions queen

Reader submitted photo by BEEKEEPER has some modifications from plans

So excited to add this plan to the Farmhouse Bed Collection! Thank you for requesting!

It's an updated approach to our most popular plan.

I've made a few changes to this bed.  The panels are plywood (although you can still do beadboard paneling or planks for a more country look) and the overall width is 7" narrower than the tradditional Farmhouse Beds.  The reason for this is the mattress on this bed extends all the way to the outsides of the legs, instead of to the insides.  
So if you have a compact space, this bed is a great alternative to the Farmhouse Bed.  It's smaller and includes six huge HUGE drawers for storage.
Please do not attempt this bed as a beginner project with the drawers.  For drawers to work, you must build perfectly square, and all cuts must be square and straight.
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Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers

dimensions diagram of farmhouse bed with storage drawers in queen size
Dimensions are shown above for queen size.


Shopping List
  • 3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
  • 5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
  • 6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
  • 4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
  • 6 Knobs or handles

NOTE: Drawers are optional - can be added later or just used as storage shelves.  The shopping list DOES include materials for the drawers, so if not building drawers, please adjust shopping list accordingly

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
paint brush
Cut List


  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"


  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 19"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"


  • 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
  • 8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 80-1/4" x 15"


  • 2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
  • 18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)


  • 12 - 1x10* @ 23 1/4"
  • 12 - 1x10* @ 14"
  • 6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"

*Plywood cut into 9 1/4" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" thick plywood; for direct conversion to cut list use 3/4" thick plywood


  • 6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 2

From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 3

From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces as shown above.

Step 4

From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.

Step 5

The largest cuts on this diagram should be 80-1/4" long, NOT 79-1/2". 

Step 6

This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).

If you are using traditional screws, mark the legs where they meet up with the panel at the top and bottom (where the panel is covered in trim. Use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a hole 2" deep into the legs. In this hole, use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a second hole all the way through the 4x4s. Attach to panel with 4" screws and glue.

Step 7

Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.

Step 8

Hooray, an easy step! Attach as shown above.

Step 9

Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.

Step 10

The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...

Step 11

This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 12

You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.

Step 13

Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.

Step 14

Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.

Step 15

Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.

Step 16

Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.

Step 17

Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.

Step 18

Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.

Step 19

Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.

Step 20

Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Thu, 04/18/2013 - 19:37

To cover the plywood end grain, I used screen molding to cover, glue and nails.
To help protect the paint from wear, last coat was clear poly.

Got a deal on baskets that had glides so I did not make drawers.


Tue, 04/23/2013 - 08:37

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Thu, 05/23/2013 - 03:39

I built it. I altered the design a couple of ways. I put blocks under the 'boxes' that are the storage units where they abut against the headboard and foot board. That way, I knew they would be easy to take off and put back on again later without having to hold the boxes looking for screwholes. I used 3/4 plywood, primed and painted, glued and screwed.

I also did some substantial carving on the legs, head and footboard and backlit a headboard insert with LED lighting.

All in...VERY strong. If you want to see pictures of the bed and the build, you can click the link below. Its my facebook page. I posted this on Ana's site, but I didn't get much response. Its possible that I somehow didn't make the couple of pics public or something.…


Tue, 08/27/2013 - 04:27

Wow! That is amazing. Do I even want to know how much that carving machine costs to buy? Does it require a computer or something?

You said Ana made mistakes in her plan. Can you outline what mistakes she made and what you did differently?



Thu, 06/20/2013 - 21:59

I love all the plans for the storage beds on here but we are looking to get a king size to build one for.


Thu, 08/08/2013 - 22:07

Is this design plan for a queen sized bed? Does anyone know? If not, could someone please tell me how I figure out how to change dimensions for a queen?

Thank you!


Tue, 08/27/2013 - 04:42

I have a few questions about this plan:
How would you stop the mattress from sliding? Even though my mattress weighs 90lbs, it tends to slide.

Where can I find the plans for the Full version of this bed?

Are there any plans for double drawers (one on top of the other) instead of just single drawers?

What about the space in the middle of the bed? It looks like it could be used for storage-- what options are there for accessing that storage?
(I love Birdsandsoap's hinged footboard idea).

What modifications could be made if I wanted to use something like SUSPA® 100 LB Gas Spring/Prop/Strut/Shock to have the top lift up to access storage under the mattress?

Are there any better ideas for accessing that space?

Instead of a footboard, what about a footboard dresser like the Lea Industries Dillon footboard dresser?

If I wanted to have this sit on the floor so nothing could get underneath, but wanted it propped up on something with a toekick on the sides instead, what would I have to change?

Are there diagrams of suggestions for more support in the middle?

Thanks for these plans. It really is giving me a lot of ideas. I admit the storage part and platform are the part that I am looking at the most since I love my existing headboard. I do not currently have a footboard though.

In reply to by zannej


Tue, 08/27/2013 - 05:41

Hello Zannej,

I don't have all answers for your questions, but I can suggest for the 1st question about preventing the mattress for sliding, I can guess that using some wood shims would stop the sliding. Also, unless you have pleennnttyyy space on the side if you want to make the drawers with more depth.

For the other question about using double drawers, you may want to reconsider it, as you may be getting the bed level way to high. I speak from experience, my in-laws have a solid wood king size bed with double drawers and doors opening on the footboard to access the "middle" storage area. My wife have to open the bottom drawers in order to "climb" to the bed.

Just my 2 cents.


Wed, 08/28/2013 - 12:59

I was thinking of making shallower drawers or of having single drawers but the faces would give the illusion of double drawers. I have a 14" mattress but I used to have a 24" mattress. For awhile (before I was able to remove the old one) I had the new mattress stacked on top of the old on on top of the box spring which is on a metal frame. That was actually a bit too high for me, but I could easily add another 10" of height to my mattress and have it be comfortable. It's actually easier for me to get in and out of that way.
But you do have a good point. I wouldn't want the bed to be too high since I'm only 5'5".
Now, for my brother's bed it can afford to be higher because he's about 6'3".

Doors on the footboard would be another option as well. I wish the hydraulic lift thing was easier to figure out because that way we could access storage near the headboard.


Tue, 08/27/2013 - 05:35

Ok, so six months later...bed is still every bit as strong. I did add on item: I cut a piece of plywood the exact size of the bed and threw it on top of the boxes,under the mattress. It has been described as the most comfortable rock ever...

To the person asking and the carving machine, its around 1,500 which sounds like a lot, but I've made five pieces of furniture with it and its the gift that keeps giving (not really a gift, my wife was gonna kill me when I bought it). But seriously, I have no talent for carving and what I wanted, it was the easiest we to get closest. If you're interested, you can go to to see about the carving unit.

now into the next project!

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