How to Build a Floating Table with a Door

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 06/02/2010 - 18:37
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If you are looking for a fast simple modern table to build, this just could be it. Using an inexpensive hollow core door and simple legs, you can build this table. Cut list has been updated to reflect reader comments (thank you readers!).

32" Wide x 80" Long x 30" High


Shopping List

Flush Hollow Core Door (no holes cut out of it or hinges) measuring 32″ x 80″
4 – 1×3, 8′ Long
4 – 1×4, 8′ Long
1 1/4″ Screws
2″ Screws
Wood Glue
Finishing Supplies

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

7 – 1×3 @ 29″ (Under Table Supports)
2 – 1×3 @ 78 1/2″ (Inner Apron)
4 – 1×3 @ 28 1/8″ (End Legs)
4 – 1×4 @ 28 1/8″ (Side of Legs)
2 – 1×4 @ 73″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×4 @ 25 1/2″ (End Aprons)

Cutting Instructions

Hollow core doors come in a variety of widths, from 24″ to 36″. You can use any of these door sizes, you will just need to adjust the cut list for the door size. I love the idea of using a 24″ wide door and hacking yourself a office desk that is almost seven feet long! You could hide some caster wheels in the legs too.

From our reader comments, you will need to adjust the measurements of the plan to the exact dimensions of the door that you purchase. Please review all comments attached to this plan.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface, be safe, and have fun! And check for square after each step. Predrill all of your screwholes to avoid splitting the wood.


Step 1

Construct the table frame as shown above from 1x3s using 2″ screws and glue. Screw through the inner aprons into the under table supports. Leave about 12″ space between the supports.

Step 2

Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach the end legs as shown above. Leave the 1/2″ gap on the tops (shown above as the bottom). Check the legs for square. These are the 1×3 boards.

Step 3

Attach the side legs to the table frame using 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Then attach to the end legs down the side, keep outside edges flush.

Step 4

Keeping the top edge (shown above as the bottom edge) of the aprons flush with the legs, leaving a 1/2″ gap from the top of the table frame and fasten in place with 1 1/4″ nails and glue (you can also use screws, but it’s not a support issue, so nails would be quicker and easier to hide).

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
With a wood filler, fill all your nail holes and let dry completely. Overfill the holes because wood filler tends to shrink when dry. Then sand, starting with a coarse grit sandpaper and work your way to a fine grit sandpaper. Prime. Then paint as desired.
Help Improve This Plan

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Crystal Monkman (not verified)

Fri, 03/11/2011 - 16:02

I see that you updated this plan since my last note on this but it's still not right. If you go to the store and buy a door marked 32" it will actually be 30" wide. The plan used to say that and then in the actual instructions showed a 32" wide door. When I was half way done building and found my top was two inches too narrow I of course immediately thought--I'll go buy a 34" door and that will be that BUT they don't sell 34" doors standard at the Home Depot so I was back home rebuilding for a couple more hours.



Tue, 12/18/2012 - 03:57

Assuming I am using a non-solid core door. Is it ok to attach the door to the frame with PH screws from the frame into the perimeter of the door?

I am also thinking of putting a vertical divider down the middle of the door (1x6 on edge) so each grandkid will have their personal side of the desk. It will be placed perpendicular to the wall and will be shorter than in your plan but the concept you put forth is really helpful.


Sat, 01/19/2013 - 23:02

This is an awesome project!I like it a lot and I am thinking to build this table in my living room as it is very useful.I have a friend who works at the Cincinnati door store and I asked him to bring me a hollow core door.