The best workbench you can build! This workbench features a miter saw stand, with roll away carts to hold all your tools and create work spaces. It's easy to customize, and the best part, it all rolls away when done!
Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com
This is one of my most favorite workbenches I've ever designed and built!
Miter Saw Stand
The base of this workbench is a miter saw stand -
But here's the big problem with a sliding miter saw: It needs 32" (or more depending on your saw) depth-wise to slide.
So what to do with the space under the workbenches, that need to be 32" deep? I knew 32" deep shelving would be a terrible idea, as stuff would just get lost back there (kitchen cabinets are 24" deep and that's about as deep as you want to go).
So instead of 32" deep shelving where stuff goes to die, I decided to put roll out carts that function as both storage and work surfaces.
And then when you are done working, they carts neatly tuck under the workbench, saving space in the garage and putting everything away
After designing, tweaking, redesiging, stressing over how to optimize materials to help you save money when building, and then more tweaking .... we built this!
It may look complicated, but I promise, this one is easy. It is big, but it is not difficult to build, and you'll be amazed at how fast it comes together.
Customizing Tool Storage and the Carts
Once you have that perfect workbench built, it's time to start customizing it for your needs. There's a spot for a vacuum under the circular saw, so you can manage your sawdust easier.
Then on one of the carts we cut out part of the top and attached a bench tool to this. We did this for all the bench tools that needed a home.
So when you need a bench tool - like this Kreg Jig - all you have to do is slide it into the cut out, use it, and then store it. The Kreg Jig piece is lightweight, so it stores upside down in the space.
How cool is that?
On the side of that cart, we added a clamp bar, so clamps are within easy reach, but always have a home to go back to.
On the second cart, we customized it to hold a table saw. When not in use, it just is a flat surface, but when in use, the tablesaw deck is significantly larger and easier to work with. The cut out area helps to contain the sawdust, and you have a nice place to store your table saw.
The second cart also functions as an outfeed table for your tablesaw. This is especially handy when using the tablesaw by yourself.
We are so very proud of how this workbench turned out. It is the result of many hours of consideration of how a home woodworking workshop is used, balanced with trying to minimize complexity and materials cost. I wanted this project to be accessible to a new woodworker, but not be something they would outgrow as their skills increased.
We hope you love it as much as we do.
Workbench with Roll Away Carts and Miter Saw Stand Plans
Preparation
• 4 Sheets of 3/4” plywood
• 2 sheets of 1/4" plywood
• 8 – 3” casters with brakes
• 3/4” screws for attaching caster wheels
• 11 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
• 8 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
• 3” self tapping wood screws
• 2” and 1-1/4” 18 gauge staples
• 4 handles for carts
Workbench Cut List
• 6 – 2x4 @ 49”
• 4 – 2x4 @ 28”
• 8 – 2x4 @ 39-1/2”
• 2 – 1/4” plywood @ 39-1/2” x 31” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 2 – 3/4” plywood @ 52-1/4” x 31” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 4 – 2x4 @ 29-1/2”
• 2 – 2x4 @ width of saw (shown at 24”)
• 2 – 3/4” plywood @ width of saw x 31” (shown at 24”)
Cart Cut List
• 2 –3/4” plywood @ 48” x 30” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 4 – 3/4” plywood @ 8-1/4” x 30” (cut from scraps, see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 24 – 1x2 @ 28”
• 8 – 3/4” plywood @ 8-1/4” x 28” (cut from scraps, see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 4 – 1/4” plywood @ 30” x 28-3/4”
• 4 – 3/4” plywood @ 48” x 29-1/2” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
Suggested Plywood Layouts for the Cuts
Instructions
Step 1
Workbench Step 1: Build Workbench Frames
Attach using 3” wood screws and glue at corners. Check for square and adjust as needed.
Step 2
Workbench Step 2: Legs
Attach legs to frame with four 3” screws and glue. Check to make sure legs are installed square with the frame.
Step 3
Workbench Step 3: Bottom Support
Attach bottom support to back legs of bench, 4” from bottom of legs. Use 3” wood screws and glue.
Step 4
Workbench Step 4: Plywood Side
Use glue and 1-1/4” staples to attach ¼” plywood to side of workbench. Remember to plywood the outsides of the bench as shown in below diagram:
Step 5
Workbench Step 5: Workbench Top
Attach workbench top to frame with 2” staples and wood glue.
Step 6
Miter Saw Shelf Step 1: Cleats
Measure the height of your miter saw deck. Add 3/4” to this measurement. Attach top cleats to sides of workbenches this measurement down from top of workbench. Cleats are flush to back, 1-1/2” less on front side. Use 3” screws.
Attach bottom shelf cleats with 4” space underneath.
Step 7
Miter Saw Shelf Step 2: Front Trim
Attach front trim to workbench legs and cleats with 3” screws.
Step 8
Miter Saw Shelf Step 3: Shelving
Place plywood shelving on cleats and attach with 1-1/4” staples and glue
Step 9
Cart Step 1: Caster Wheel Height
Measure the overall height of your caster wheels. Maximum clearance under workbench is 36” but some space should be left to allow cart to slide in. Cut list as shown is for casters with 3-3/4” clearance – adjust your cuts if your caster wheels are different heights.
Also double check the final location of your workbench for sloping garage floors and give extra room if in doubt.
Step 10
Cart Step 2: Cart Frame
Use 2” screws to attach cart front to cart shelf end with 1x2s. Build two of the cart frames.
Step 11
Cart Step 3: Shelves
Attach remaining 1x2s to shelves with 1-1/4” staples from underside. Then attach shelves inside cart frames with 2” screws or staples and glue.
TIP: Cut two 9” blocks of wood and use as spacers when placing shelves.
NOTE: Shelves can be placed at any height – customize to fit your needs and toolset.
Step 12
Cart Step 4: Shelf Backs
Attach backs to shelves with 1-1/4” staples and glue.
Step 13
Cart Step 5: Top and Bottom
Attach top and bottom to cart frame with 2” staples and glue
Step 14
Cart Step 6: Caster Wheels
Install caster wheels on bottom of carts with ¾” screws.
Step 15
Step 1: Benchtop Cutout
Use a circular saw or jigsaw to carefully cut out the top of the workbench cart, following back of shelves and cutting to depth needed for your bench top tools. Make sure you leave about 2” extra for adding the cleat in step 3.
Step 16
Step 2: Bench Top Cleats
Cut 1x2 cleats 1-1/2” less than the opening depth. Screw to the insides of the workbench cart, so the 1x2 top is flush with the bottom edge of the plywood workbench top.
Step 17
Step 3: Benchtop Tool Shelf
Attach a 1x2 cleat flat to 3/4” thick plywood cut to match the opening of the benchtop. Test fit and adjust if necessary.
Step 18
Step 4: Bench Top Tool
Attach Bench top tool to the removeable tabletop piece as recommended by the tool’s guide. Only lighter tools should be hung upside down. Additional cleats can be added inside cart for storing more benchtop tools.
Step 19
Step 5: Tablesaw Modification
Repeat steps as directed for benchtop tools, except custom cut tabletop out to fit your tablesaw, leaving enough room for the tablesaw fence, guides and accessories to freely move. Use cleats and ¾” plywood to create a shelf for the tablesaw. When installation is complete, the tablesaw deck should be slightly higher than the tabletop itself. Secure tabletop to shelf.
Comments
rjcarr1911
Sun, 07/19/2020 - 17:12
1 - I used brad nails to…
1 - I used brad nails to secure the bench tops to the bench frame. I believe I used about (5) 1 3/4 brad nails on each side of each bench top.
2 - I didn't attach plywood to the sides either, and I don't believe I will.
4 - you add 3/4 of an inch to your miter saw height so the miter saw will sit flush with your bench tops (since your bench tops are 3/4 of an inch). if you don't add 3/4 of an inch to this measurement, then your miter saw will be 3/4 of an inch higher than your bench top. this is a good baseline, but I had to do LOTS of tweaking to get everything flush & level. a huge pain really. just make sure your benches are level by themselves first. and then make sure they are level with one another. and then try to make your miter saw flush / level with the bench tops. but then again maybe I did more work than was necessary. wouldn't be the first time.
5 - I prefer plywood. the scratches and what not will drive me nuts a little at first, but I will eventually get over it. I do however plan on finishing with teak oil and polyurethane to manage some surface damage. and now that I think of it, hopefully that won't mess up all of my attempts of trying to get everything flush / level.
6 - structurally, the seem pretty sound. I've only made one so far. I did notice however that the plans call for 1x2 to support a table saw, which sounds insane. but if you look at the pics, it looks like the table saw is supported by 2x4. so I would love some clarification there.
Bgstewar
Sat, 08/01/2020 - 12:35
Would a 12" sliding Dewalt…
Would a 12" sliding Dewalt miter saw fit this table if the cutout was made bigger? It needs a lot of room for the sliding rails.
rjcarr1911
Tue, 08/04/2020 - 06:54
yes, that's the saw I have. …
yes, that's the saw I have. especially if you follow the dimensions in the plans. the workbenches are deep enough to allow full range of motion of the slide. also, your shelf will have to be wider than the plans call for in order to fit that saw. maybe even a little bit wider to allow full range of motion of the miter angles. the saw will have to sit just about all the way forward on the shelf to prevent it from hitting the workbenches when making 45 degree miter cuts. I haven't even attempted bevel cuts, but I don't believe there should be any interference there.
jkjackson
Sun, 09/06/2020 - 18:59
Brilliant use of space! I’m so excited...and have a question. :)
I’m so excited to find this plan! It is such an answered prayer for our needs. Thank you for sharing! I’ve already started it and am curious about the staples. I can’t find any staples that are 2”. What do you recommend as a substitute? A shorter (1 1/2” staple) or a 2” brad nail? Thanks again!
In reply to Brilliant use of space! I’m so excited...and have a question. :) by jkjackson
mvgreen3
Wed, 09/23/2020 - 22:17
They provide minimal…
They provide minimal structural support, and I mean minimal, so either would suffice.
joshua.b.harper7
Wed, 10/14/2020 - 09:40
Question before I build
Hey Ana, I want to build this bench. I, however have a Dewalt 744 table saw with a rack and pinion style gate. I wanted to try to get your opinion on what I should do about building it into the cart still. I was thinking I would just turn it sideways and build the shelving differently on one of the carts to sit on. Maybe rabbet on the underside of the top of the board for the rack to slide. What do you think?
htse
Thu, 12/17/2020 - 21:31
Share CAD model file?
Are you able to share the CAD model file? I love the design, but would need to make a few modifications to fit my space.