Farmhouse Table

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Farmhouse Table

Extremely sturdy rustic farmhouse table that is easy to build!
Special thanks to Jackie, one of our readers for the photo.

image from Country Living Magazine/photo by Lucas Allen

This table was also featured in Country Living Magazine!  Built by Michael and Emily Knotts!

We use our table now as my main work table in the garage.  Hundreds of projects later, she's still going!!!  We ended up putting more stretcher boards down for a lower shelf, and hundreds of pounds of screws are now stored there.  Super strong!


Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!


Shopping List: 

Weathered Stain
Varnish or Finish Oil
8 – 2x4s (should be about $2 a stick)
6 – 2x2s (should be about $1 a stick)
1 - 2×8 (should be about $6)
7 – 2x6s (should be about $2.50 each)
2 3/4″ Screws (About 100)
4″ Screws (About 20)

wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
paint brush
measuring tape
safety glasses
hearing protection
circular saw
General Instructions: 

Always use glue. Use the longest possible screws, and predrill with a countersink bit to hide the screw heads.

30″ High x 38 1/2″ Wide x 96″ Long
Cut List: 

A) 4 - 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Outside Legs)
B) 4 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Inside Legs)
C) 2 -2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (Bottom End Supports for the Stretcher)
D) 1 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Stretcher)
E) 2 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Side Aprons)
F) 2 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (End Aprons)
G) 2 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Overhang Supports, Ends)
H) 2 – 2×2 @ 78″ (Overhang Supports, Sides)
I) 10 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports)
J) 2 – 2×8 @ 38 1/2″ (Breadboard Ends)
K) 7 – 2×6 @ 81″ (Tabletop Pieces)

Cutting Instructions: 
Start by cutting all your boards.
Step 1: 

Notch out boards A, the Outside Legs, as shown above. If you do not know how to notch out boards, watch me notch the boards out for my table in my HOW-TO section.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Notch out the inside leg as shown above. Make sure you notch both the top and the bottom as shown above. Use the measurements from step 2 to notch the bottom. See the below diagram for a closeup on notching the top.

Step 3 Instructions: 

The above diagram show you how to notch out the top of the inside legs.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now screw an inside leg to an outside leg, using glue and 2 3/4″ screws. Be aware of where each leg is placed – it does matter on what sides the inside leg sits. Also, screw through the inside leg into the outside leg to keep your screw holes on the inside.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Now notch out board C, the end support for the stretcher, as shown above in green. This notch is 1″ deep.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Screw the support, C, into the legs, as shown above. Make sure you use 2 screws on the inside leg and 2 screws on the outside legs per side of the end supports.
NOTE: If you would like the support to be on the outside, rotate the legs, keeping the inside legs on the inside, and add 4″ to your stretcher, D. This will reduce your leg room for end chairs, but the notch out will be more visible, like my table and the Restoration Hardware table.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Put your stretcher in place and screw down.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Build your apron on a level surface as shown above, using side apron boards E and end apron boards F.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Fit the apron frame into the base of the table as shown above. Use the long screws to screw at an angle through the apron into the legs. Use 3 screws per leg on all legs. Lots of glue here.
Now is a good time to check your table for square. Visit the HOW-TO section if you do not know how to check for square.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Mark the side apron every 5 3/4″ and place the 2×2 supports, I, as shown above. Remember that a 2×2 is 1 1/2″ wide. This does not have to be exact and the last support will not be exactly 5 3/4″ from the end. Use the 2 3/4″ screws here.

Step 11: 

Add the overhang supports, G and H, as shown above. Keep the top edges flush, use the 2 3/4″ screws. Make sure you screw these in good.

Step 12: 

Now the breadboard ends, J. See the below diagram for measurements:

Step 13: 

Use the long screws to screw the breadboard end into the legs. Then screw from the underside of the overhang support, board G, into the underside of the breadboard end.

Step 14: 

First mark all the ends of the tabletop boards, K, for the screw pattern. The screw pattern I used was 1″ from the end, and 1″ from each side and one in the middle. Predrill the ends on the marked pattern, as shown above.

Step 15: 

Then begin adding the tabletop pieces K, starting with the center piece, as shown below. Screw the center board in place on the ends through the top, predrilled and marked in step 15. Then from the underside of the table, screw through the tabletop supports, I, into the underside of the tabletop boards, K.

Step 16: 

Add the next tabletop boards, K, as shown below. As you screw each board down, take special care to line up the edges with the existing boards. You do not want a gap between the boards on the tabletop. Remember to screw through the top on the ends and then screw through the bottomof the under supports to the underside of the tabletop boards.

Step 17: 

After all the boards are screwed in place, then use the long screws to screw through the tabletop boards into the breadboard ends, as shown above.

Step 18: 

Make sure you have adequately screwed your table together, as shown above.

Step 19: 

Here are some dimensions.

Finish Used: 
Fill screw holes with putty and sand and finish as desired. The Restoration Hardware table actually comes unfinished. I recommend using a “weathered wood” stain, hand rubbed on, and a light mineral oil sealer.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 


I was unsure of my skills so i first made this table as a coffee table. I just modified the dimensions. My wife LOVED IT!!!!! So I built this table this week. My dimensions were 72"x38.5" love it. I stained it an early american color, and put a satin finish varathane on it. This table has the feel of rustic country, but the stain and varathane makes it a little modern. My friends are asking me to make then one! I'll post pictures very soon

Hi Paul! My husband and I are excited to make this table, and are interested in the dimensions that you used. Could you share your plans with us? We total novices so any tips would be great.

Thank you!!

Ok.. so let me just make sure I totally understand. You put screws down through the TOP of the table.. just like you would build decking, etc? I want to knock off the PB Hyde Coffee table, and this is just the look I'm going for, more or less.

Hi Ana!

Thanks so much for creating these plans. My husband and I made this table over Thanksgiving weekend and I LOVE it! I'm afraid to stain it -- I sort of like it just the way it is. Now I just have to move my chandelier and have some friends over to celebrate.

One friend asked, "So, are you actually sitting at the table to eat, or do you sit in the living room so you can look at your table?"

Oh me too! I was scrolling through the comments to see if I could find any comments about an extension! I'm nearly 8mos pregnant with #5, and we've out grown our current table. After suffering from sticker shock at the local furniture store day, my handy hubby and I are going to attempt to build this, and the farm house bed ;o) Which one first.....
Thanks for all of this!! Simply Amazing!

I am also waiting on the bench plans before we jump into making the table. We are going from a counter height table to this farmhouse table, so we would have nothing to sit on until getting a bench made! Can't wait to see the bench plans as well.

We are making benches this weekend. We are just modifying the plans to make matching benches. If we are successful I will post what we did to make it work.

We made the benches and they turned out great! I posted pictures on the Knock Off Wood facebook page since I don't have a website to link to here.
I will do my best to describe what we did. Ana might have to help clarify since I am not that great at this. :)
What we did was cut 3 2x6 pieces to 33 3/4 inches. Then 2 2x8 pieces to 15 1/2 inches - basically we made it match the width of the 2x6's when lined up together. the legs were done the same way as the table but cut to 16 1/2 inches so that the bench would be 18 inches tall. We did the frame the same as the table just scaled it down to size. I hope that helps.

Ana, I am interested in building benches to go with the Farmhouse Table w/stretcher... I have looked all over your site but can't find any, I notice others have asked you about plans and I am just curious if they on on your site and I simply can't find them, or if you haven't had a chance to post them yet?

Ana, any luck with the bench plans for the farmhouse table w/ stretcher? I'm holding off on the table until I can build the benches first, don't want a table and no place to sit...


To extend this table to seat more people (I have a family of 10), would you put a set of legs in the middle (six legs total), or just increase the size of the apron boards from 2 x 4 to 2 x 6to carry the extra length?

I dislike the idea of a six-legged table!

Do you have to include the stretcher? I would like to omit it so that I can have chairs on the ends of the table as well as on the sides.

I would like to know this too. I need to build this by next month because I have a lot of family coming over and need to use the ends of the table too.

I LOVE IT! Thank you so much for posting this! I have so, so, so wanted a Restoration Hardware-like farm table but don't have $3K to spend one either. And even if I did I think I'd try to somehow find one or make one for less. I'm one of those people who always think "I can make that" when I see something. Sometimes it works out and sometimes I just end up buying the real deal but it's always fun going through the process of trying! I am bookmarking this and sending it to my husband right now! :) Thanks!

Can anyone recommend a specific stain (i.e., from say home depot) for the "weathered stain" look? Is the Restoration Hardware table stained? Thanks!

Wondering what type of wood putty would be best to use on the table. Which one will hold a stain or a coat of paint best? My wife prefers there not to be visible screws on the table top, so I need to fill in the screws and stain/paint. I've heard that some of the more inexpensive wood puttys will not hold a stain or a coat of paint.


I love the shape of this table.  It's exactly what I've been looking at for my family.  Our antique table is a little rickety after so many years of use.  We have eight kids and looking at tables big enough for ten people I can't believe how expensive they are, or how hard to find.  After paying a nice Amish man to make us eight chairs and a bench, I realized that hand made furniture is WORTH it, but if those hands could be MINE, what a great sense of accomplishment.  I'm still happy to pay Eli his due, but I think I want to try making this just to have done it.  Thank you for sharing this!!!

Hi Ana, You mentioned this table can be made without the stretcher and using 4x4 posts. Would I simply notch out the tops of the 4x4 posts to fit in the apron frame? Or would you suggest using joiners similar to the Tryde collection?

Hi Ana I was interested in making the square farmhouse table but the link with those instructions isn't working. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong but it tells me the page doesn't exist :/ Please help. Thanks

I was thinking of using 4x4's for legs instead of two 2x4's...I don't see a specific reason for the two 2x4's. Does anyone think that would be a problem?

I LOVE YOUR SITE!!! My husband and I really want to make this table! We are wondering how hard it would be to modify this to make the table legs removable? We do a lot of cross-country moving, so we need something that travels well. With a family of 8, we need something big, durable, and inexpensive also! Thank you so much!

I just built this table, and while it was not my first building project ever, it was my first one without my dad! I waited years to buy a new table because I never could find one that met my needs, we have 8 children, and company frequently. I did make it longer simply by omitting the bread board ends and extending the 2x6's, then I glued and used finishing nails to add a 1x2 over the rough ends. I looks great and will seat 12 adults comfortably. I built 2 benches to match. The plans were easy to follow and very easy to understand, it wasn't hard at all! THANK YOU for this website, I have many more projects on my to do list now!

Why is there a nailer required as part of the tool list? I dont see any nails being used.

First, let me say that this site is absolutely amazing. I actually started to cry when I discovered it. I've been living as an expat in Asia for 8 yrs & getting furniture I really like has proved impossible. Just the logistics of buying this kind of thing from US stores like Pottery Barn, not to mention the whopping price tag, are frightening. So, thank you, thank you, thank you for providing this information and, even more so, for doing it for free!
However, it seems like there are some errors in the math. For example, if the 7 tabletop pieces are each 6" wide, how can the table be 38 1/2" wide? 7x6=42, no? Likewise, if the 2 breadboard pieces are 8" each & the tabletop pieces are 81", how is the table 96" long, when 8+8+81= 97?
But I am not a carpenter [yet! :)], so maybe I'm not reading the plans correctly. Is there something I'm missing?

I LOVE this look. Any advice or recommendations on keeping the crumbs from collecting in the grooves? Thinking of this as an everyday table. Thanks!

Are the breadboards necessary? I kind of like the look without them, but I don't want to sacrifice the integrity of the table. Great plans.

Any idea how much this table weighs? I am planning to build but have concerns about moving it once completed.

Also, Avi, I like the idea of a wider table ... which makes it heavier of course. Did all of your cuts work?

Hi Ana,
I just finished the bench but am wondering what you did to fill the gaps between the 2x4s on the legs. It looks like they are 4x4s. Did you use wood filler or glue and sawdust? I am planning on staining them and would like it to look more finished.
I love your site and can't tell you how happy I am to build. I too am a stay at home mom and building is my new "job". I have recently refinished all my cabinets and put up chair rail and beadboard. The farmhouse furniture is going to look amazing in my "new" kitchen.
Thanks again for your amazing work

When my Daddy was 80 he built me a country dining table like this one from Alabama heart pine. Now I'm building a new house and have feared that the dining area is too narrow for the chairs I have. The bench is the perfect solution!! Thanks so much for the plans and all the inspiring ideas at this site!

I'm frustrated searching this site. Step one of the farmhouse table tells me to "Notch out boards A, the Outside Legs, as shown above. If you do not know how to notch out boards, watch me notch the boards out for my table in my HOW-TO section." I was ready to bravely move ahead and notch out the boards, then I noticed that I could see you do it. I spent 1/2 an hour looking and never did find the demonstration. can you help?


Hi Anna,
I love this table and would like to build it for our dining room. Since we like to have chairs on each end of the table I was thinking of building it without the cross beams so that they can slide easily underneath. Do you think it needs the cross beams?
I think I am going to shorten the length to about 66 inches long and then build 15" extensions for each end. Thanks!


I found this site by Googling plans for a dining room table. I am amazed by what I've found here! So this table is going to be the first thing I build, but I'm having a little problem...

When you say, "watch me notch the boards out for my table in my HOW-TO section" where is this how-to section? Maybe I'm being a dope, but I can't find it!


This is awesome!!
I am actually making this table now, thanks to your inspiration!

I have a question though, just because I am trying to be as detail oriented as possible to make it (rustically) perfect. In your step three, you have the width as 1 1/2 inches wide. Wouldn't that measurement actually only be 1/2 (the width of the 2x4? Step 9 seems to prove my point that the 2x4 butting up against it is flush with the edge of the longer 2x4. Thanks, I appreciate the work you put into this!

I am wanting to build a dining room table and I found the plans for your farmhouse table. I printed off the plans for the table and would like to know how to get the plans for the bench. This is exactly what we have been looking for! Thank you. Kyle

I'd enjoy working with wood because this is an activity that we usually has done along with my father growing up. I have usually experienced the mind list of "why didn't I build up that" things just like book shelves, a console table, and also coffee table. Using your site to inspire, I Am Aware that we could possibly do a couple of from it! Thank you for presenting your own skills to be a useful resource - look ahead to checking out your website!


I would like to make this table but would like the legs to have an arc and cross at the ends. Any idea on how I would do this? What would the new dimensions be?


Getting the legs to cross isn't a major problem, and there are plans on here for benches and tables with similar designs. Sorry, don't know where, but you'll have fun cruising the plan catalog anyway.

As for putting an arc on things, I'm not sure what you mean. If the legs themselves have a curve to them, that's a much more advanced project and you'll need to learn how to do either a steam bend or a bent lamination. Both are considered advanced topics. Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Volume 2, covers this in depth and would definitely be worth your time and money.

An arc in the apron can easily be cut with a jig saw and cleaned up with a rasp and spokeshave.

Me and my wife have been looking to build a table identical to the one you built but only square instead of rectangle. have you ever built a square one? if so do you happen to have plans?

I just found your blog and I love it. I signed up because your blog gives me hope that I can achieve building furniture. Thanks so much for the informatiion. I will be a followers forever.

Does anyone know how deep the notch's should be cut out?

The dadoes for the stretchers on the ends should be cut to the same depth as the thickness of the stretchers. That can be measured with a ruler, but it would be better done with a marking gauge.

Can you provide me with the link for your how to notch out the legs on the farm table?

Also I have a 10" table saw, can I subsitute a 8" dado blade?

Thank you for your help

I searched through the site looking for some Farm House Chairs that go with the Table and the Bench but couldn't find any. Any chance of making some ? It would be REALLY GREAT if you would be able to do that. Thanks

There are a few plans for chairs on this site. You won't find plans for chairs like are shown in the photo because those are moderately non-trivial to built.

If you want to try building your own chairs, I can recommend a book called "Chair Making Simplified." My wife gave it to me a fews years back for Christmas. That books really isn't for beginners though, since tool #1 that you'll need is a lathe with at least 36" between centers.

A book with some good advice on building chairs and other furniture with precious few tools is Woodworking With Your Kids by Richard Starr. If Richard Starr has eighth-grade girls building chairs and tables with hand tools, a bit of willingness to learn and you'll be building your own new dining room set.

I was wondering if there was a version of this plan available where the dimensions shown in the images are visible? I would love to make this table, but I am having a very hard time reading the measurements from the images provided.


Would you be able to construct this table without the lower bars on the table, so that the head and foot of the table could have a chair pushed in? I like this plan except for that small detail.

My daughter's fiance' built this table for me and I love it! I'm going to have a glass top made for it etched with a border design and our family initial in the center. I want to protect the top while still keeping the beauty of the wood visible. Thanks for the great plans!

That top sounds beautiful. When you have the top it would be great if you could post pictures. I must confess a weakness for etched glass.

I see a lot of questions regarding the lower bars - asking if they are necessary.... but I don't see any responses. I'm thinking the responses may not be visible to the other guests.... so I'm submitting the same questions again..... I'd like to use the ends of the table.... are the lower bars necessary???

I was just wondering where the pictures are for the remaining steps. I am a begining builder and I know how to follow plans very well, but understanding a couple of the last steps has me a little confused. I know I would probably understand if I seen the picture and realize I was being dumb, but without it I am unsure if I would be able to fully finish the table. Thank you in advance for any response and help.

I am looking for these pics too. Just realized they have been missing since April. I am about ready to put the top on and also am trying to figure out what she means when it says to drill into the breadboard ends after all the 2x6s are screwed on. Did you ever figure it out? Hope you had a successful build!

Hello! This will be my first time to try and build something. The table will be way too long for my room at 96 inches. Do you have instructions or measurements for this table but smaller?



I love these plans and I'm driving to wine country to purchase some repurposed redwood to build it. The boards that I'm getting are 2x12 (actual dimension) and I was wondering how I should rip them for this project. The easiest thing in my mind is to just rip the 2x12 into sections like 2x2 (6 of them)? Will it matter much, or since most of the measurements are just .5 inches bigger than the nominal counterpart it will all work out? Thanks!

I would just modify the plans to accommodate the width of lumber that you have. It's something you should do anyway, because there are variances in width in the material from lumberyards and home centers. Especially home centers.

I would just modify the plans to accommodate the width of lumber that you have. It's something you should do anyway, because there are variances in width in the material from lumberyards and home centers. Especially home centers.


I love these plans and I'm driving to wine country to purchase some repurposed redwood to build it. The boards that I'm getting are 2x12 (actual dimension) and I was wondering how I should rip them for this project. The easiest thing in my mind is to just rip the 2x12 into sections like 2x2 (6 of them)? Will it matter much, or since most of the measurements are just .5 inches bigger than the nominal counterpart it will all work out? Thanks!

Just a caution that your design calls for 2x6s for the top and you are suggesting to screw each piece down in 3 places while leaving no gap. This is fine for today, but wood moves with the seasons and you will either end up with gaps, cracks, cupping or all three over time.

This is actually the reason why real breadboard ends were made for tabletops. The breadboard normally holds the boards making up the table top via sliding mortises allowing for the movement that is inherent to all woods.

So, just a caution, that this will give you 'the look' but the top may not hold up well over time.

Hi Ana,

Love your site and this table! I have two questions.

1) Do you think the reccomened wood on the tabletop will bow overtime if the table is kept indoors?

2) I am considering using oak for the tabletop. Any thoughts or concerns about this? I thought it could look great and last longer.



First let me just say that you are amazing!!
Here is a question from someone who is in the dreaming stage. Never built anything in my life and own no tools. You are an inspiration and I am trying to learn about what would be involved before even thinking about the next step.
The instructions for all these projects for the shopping list talk about the width and depth of the lumber needed (eg. 2 x 4). What length are all these pieces that you are talking about? Do they come in standard lengths? It seems like the stores carry them in 8 ft, 10 ft, 12 ft etc. Which length would I need to follow the instructions for this table?
Thanks for the help.

If the plan doesn't need 8', the shopping list will occasionally have the board length listed (they often come in 2' increments, so it would be like... a 1x2 @ 4' or something), but if not, go with the 8'.
Keep dreaming, but don't take too long! It's much better to dive right in! You'll love it!