So how do we get a high quality solid wood bookcase without spending $350? Easy. Just build it. Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.
- 3 - 1x12 @ 10feet
- 1 - 1x3 @ 10feet
- 1/4″ Beadboard, cut at 41 1/2″ wide x 32 1/2″ high
- 1 - 1x2 @ 12 feet
- 1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet
Use 2″ nails to fasten all joints and glue unless otherwise noted. Make sure to fasten all joints to all neighboring boards to reinforce your joints. It is always better to nail from two different directions than just one.
- A) 2 – 1×12 @ 32 1/2″ (Sides)
- B) 2 – 1×12 @ 40″ (Shelves)
- C) 1 – 1×3 @ 40″ (Front top trim)
- D) 1/4″ Beadboard, cut at 41 1/2″ wide x 32 1/2″ high
- E) 1- 1×2 @ 40″ (Footer Support)
- F) 2 – 1×4 @ 11 1/2″ on the shortest points, mitered (Side Footers – Router out the top edge with an ogee bit or purchase 4″ base mouldings)
- G) 1 – 1×4 @ 41 1/2″ at the shortest points, mitered (Front Footer – Router out the top edge with an ogee bit or purchase 4″ base mouldings)
- H) 1 – 1×2 @ 44 1/2″ (Back Tabletop)
- I) 1 – 1×12 @ 44 1/2″ (Front Tabletop)
Fastens the shelves, B, to the sides, A, as shown above.
Add the Front Top Trim piece, C, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush.
Add the beadboard, D, to the back as shown above.
Add the footer support as shown above. Keep front edge flush.
Measure the front of the bottom and miter the front footer, piece G, to exactly match. The outside corners will be 45 degrees outward. Then take an exact measurement for the side pieces and cut the footer, mitering the front edge 45 degrees outward.
Add the back tabletop piece, H.
Then the front tabletop, I, and you are done with the framing.