2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long
4 - 1x12 @ 46 5/8"
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it.
This plans uses pocket holes. Before joining any boards, identify all necessary pocket holes on each and every board and drill all pocket holes.
On three of the 1x12s @ 46 5/8" long, trim the top and bottom edges out with 1x2s as shown above. Attach with glue and 1 1/4" finish nails from the back side to hide your nail holes.
All of the 1x12s @ 46 5/8" should have pocket holes drilled on the insides, on the long edges, approximately every 8-12 inches. On the 1x12s that you trimmed out, attach legs as shown above.
Featuring five shelves and five drawers, this bookshelf/dresser isn't just a smart storage solution. It's also a top bunk support system.
You could either use pocket holes for 1 1/2" stock, or 2 1/2" screws countersunk to join two of the leg panels as shown above. For added stability, you could also add the 2x2s shown in step 8 now too. Use glue and adjust for square.
The remaining 1x12 will fill in the back.
There are a couple of different means to attaching the shelves. What I would do is first attach the shelf trim (steps 6 and 7) to the shelves, and then attach the shelves as shown here. Use glue and pocket hole screws (1 1/4") to attach the fixed shelves from the underside.
If you have not already attached the trim to the top/bottom shelves, do so with either 2" finish nails and glue, or 1 1/4" pocket hole screws from the underside.
Shelf trim. The difference in this shelf trim is that it is 1x2s instead of 2x2s. You can use 2x2s, it's just the look.
This cabinet is designed for drawers with a 1x8 face. Measure the width of you 1x8s. With a 7 1/4" wide 1x8, you will be able to have drawer faces with 1/8" gaps around all sides. Attach the 2x2 drawer dividers as shown above. These are not supportive (no weight will be resting on them) so you can use 2" finish nails and glue.
Now it's time to build the drawer boxes. Each box needs to be 1" less in width than the opening for the drawer (for standard drawer slides). Measure first your drawer opening, and then build your drawer to fit.
Attach 1/4" plywood to the bottoms of the drawers. Use the drawer slides that are bottom/side mount so that the weight of the drawer is resting directly on the drawer slide (see below link).
Attach the drawer slide to the drawer boxes and insert the drawer box. Remember, the drawer will get a face, so the drawer box needs to be inset 3/4". Then cut your 1x8 drawer faces to fit the opening (the ideal is 11 1/4" wide) so that there is an even gap around all sides of the drawer face. Attach the drawer face to the drawer box with 1 1/4" nails and glue.
Finally, if you desire, you can add 1x2 trim to the sides of the drawer box to give the shelf a more rustic feel. Just use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.
When you to to assemble the bed, you can simply screw from the top underside of the shelf with 3" screws into the underside of the top bunk.