I've included pocket holes in the diagrams for those of you with a Kreg Jig. You can also use countersunk screws with glue, or even finish nails, as this cabinet is fully framed. 

Now the bottom shelf. It sits 2 3/4" from the bottom.

Mark the placement of the center divider and attach in place.

You will need a pocket hole jig to make these shelves fixed. But certainly, you could use shelf pins to make adjustable shelves. Here's a great tute on how you can use pegboard as a guide for drilling your shelf pin holes.

These are for your drawer guides. Use either 1 1/4" screws or nails to attach to the sides as shown in the diagram.

What really makes a cabinet like this one is the cutout footer. Use the diagram above to help you cut a pattern from the footer and attach. You can also start by attaching the footer, and then cut the footer out afterwards.

Use 2" finish nails and wood glue to attach the side trim.

Now the header. Attach to the center divider as well.

And now the drawer trim. You will need to either use pocket holes from the back or 2" screws and glue from the sides, outside to secure trim in place.

And finally the top front. Attach in place with glue and finish nails.

Install drawers into the cabinet as shown above with the drawer slides. Here's a tute on the type of slides you should use and also how I install a drawer.  Remember that the drawer box needs to sit 3/4" inset from the face frame to allow for the drawer faces (see next step).

Now here's the fun part, cut your drawer faces to fit the openings, and center of the drawers. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails (careful about the hardware locations) and glue. Then remove drawer and attach faces to drawer boxes with 1 1/4" screws from the inside.