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Benchright Farmhouse Table

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Benchright Farmhouse Table

About Project

Free woodworking plans to make a Farmhouse Table inspired by Pottery Barn Benchwright Table. Features metal stretcher and lots of details to make your table interesting and unique. Save thousands off retail the do it yourself furniture way.

Author Notes: 

While I know it's still July, and summer for most everyone else, yesterday, while helping out at the Momplex , I found myself shivering all bundled up. 



And this morning, the snow line dropped on the mountains.  Those mountains are like a giant clock, ticking with a dropping snow line, reminding us that winter is coming very soon.


But not everyone is worried about that.


I shiver just looking at that!

And it occurred to me that as much as we cringe to think of it, fall is just around the corner.

And with fall comes my most favorite of Holidays, Thanksgiving. 


What better excuse to build a farmhouse table?  We of course have lots of table plans, but when I saw the Reclaimed Wood Benchwright Farmhouse Table from Pottery Barn, I just HAD to draw you up a plan.  So beautiful!

The base is sized for a five foot long iron pipe, available at most home improvement stores in the plumbing aisles.  There's tons of iron fitting that you could use to "dress" the table up with.



Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Benchright Farmhouse Table
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

6 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long
2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - Black Iron Pipe 60" long, both ends threaded
Bolts/Caps and Washers for decorative touches
4 - 6" Black Bolts with washer and Nuts (1/4" would work fine)

2 inch screws
3 inch screws
2 inch finish nails
wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List: 

Legs
4 - 1x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
4 - 2x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2" (End Aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 31" (Stretcher)
8 - 1x2 @ 4 1/4" (One end cut at 10 degree angle, longest point measurement)
4 - 1x2 @ 16 1/8 (cut to fit - spacer)

Table
2 - 2x6 @ 45 1/4" (Side Aprons - short point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square)
3 - 2x2 @ 20" (Supports)
2 - 2x2 @ 67" (Sides)
2 - 2x2 @ 30" (Ends)
2 - 2x4 @ 33"
2 - 1x4 @ 33"
6 - 1x6 @ 67 1/8" (cut to fit)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Benchright Farmhouse Table

We'll start by making the legs. The most important part of the legs is getting your cuts right. Some of the cuts are bevels and some are angles, so pay attention in the diagrams. All angles will be ten degrees off square. Remember, you will need to assemble two sets of legs, and the legs are mirrors of each other. You can use finish nails and glue. Start by attaching the 1x4 to the top 1x2 as shown above.

Step 2

Benchright Farmhouse Table

Now attach the 2x4 to the legs as shown above. Use glue and 2" finish nails - don't worry, we'll be further suporting this leg shortly.

Step 3

Benchright Farmhouse Table

Now sandwich in the apron and stretcher as shown above. Stretcher will overhang 1/2" on each outside end.

Step 4

Benchright Farmhouse Table

And now simply fill in the blanks.

Step 5

Benchright Farmhouse Table

Once your legs are done, you can add the side aprons. Screw with 3" screws and glue - or pocket holes if you have a Kreg Jig.

Step 6

Benchright Farmhouse Table

And attach the supports - these will give you something to nail your top boards on too.

Step 7

Benchright Farmhouse Table

I'd love to see these bolted on with a iron bolt for a little extra touch. Attach with 7 1/2" overhangs on ends.

Step 8

Benchright Farmhouse Table

Now the end supports. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 9

Benchright Farmhouse Table

Bolt the breadboard end on as shown above. Use 6" bolts with washers as done here.

Step 10

Benchright Farmhouse Table

Nail down the 1x4 to the ends as shown here.

Step 11

Benchright Farmhouse Table

And finally top with the 1x6s. Note, you can use other boards for the top, for example reclaimed wood boards for a more rustic look.

Step 12

Benchright Farmhouse Table

Drill holes in the stretchers and add iron pipe. Use fittings to secure pipe in place.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Happiest Girl Ever!

Oh finally, finally!!! Thank you so much, Ana!!!! I have been wanting this one forever!! I even tried to figure it out in sketch-up, but never got it right. As always, you are so amazing and I can't wait to have a house full of your furniture! (Getting there, slowly but surely!) :)

 
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PS

I guarantee this one is much more sturdy than the PB counterpart...my 2 year old bumped into theirs and set all the dishes on top wobbling. Most of the bulk of this piece on theirs is illusion.

 
Ana White's picture
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I have to tell you . . . I

I have to tell you . . . I drew this plan up a while back, but just couldn't post it quite yet because I didn't feel it met Farmhouse Table requirement #1 - STURDY. But after adding the 2x6 aprons, this is going to be a heavy and sturdy table. Thanks for commenting, it's always good to hear from owners of the pieces that inspire us!

 
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Another great plan!

I would love to build the round table. Do you think there is a slight chance that you might find the time to draw up the plans for the round (extendable) table? Thank you for all your hard work!

 
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YayYayYayYayYayYay!!!!!!

Ana, I have been waiting and waiting and waiting for these plans. I've been coveting this table from PB but couldn't swallow the price tag. I figured I'd save and save and save to buy, but now I don't have to! Thank you soooooo much!

 
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AWESOME!

I LUV this table. I had a Pottery Barn Outlet 5 miles away (it closed), this table was $900 there and the wood was junk and easily scratched. Thanks Anna for your awesome plan!

 
gabbiegal's picture
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Square???

Do you think this would look okay converted to be square? I really want a square dining room table. NOt sure if it would work though.

 
kristen's picture
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Love it

I saw this on Pottery Barn not too long ago and I really liked the iron and wood look. Thanks for the plans! I've been a very regular member for the better part of a year now, and you STILL manage to surprise me even after all this time. I didn't think a plan would show up for this table due to the iron in it, but that can't stop Ana ;)

I've considered building a much-needed new table for our home, but I really want it to be able to expand (I know that even the PB one cant'). This plan may change my mind though...

 
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Materials List Adjustment

The 5th item down on the materials list, 3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long, should be 3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

 
Ana White's picture
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Thanks for the catch - just

Thanks for the catch - just fixed it. Appreciate you taking the time to let us know. Ana

 
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Winter?!?!?

I can't even imagine already thinking about winter! We still have sunny, HOT days ahead of us AT LEAST through November. And usually Christmas day is spent in shorts here on the gulf coast. Gorgeous plans!

 
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rectangle hardware fittings?

I like the look of the rectangular iron hardware at the base, but no idea where to purchase this or if I'll have to 'fake it' with paint and wood. Any thoughts. I've worked through how to finish out the pipe with fittings, but still stumped on this.

Also thinking of making it expandable at the breadboards rather than middle(easier and the base can be fixed)--rockler.com has some extensions that do this.

 
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Mistake in cutting directions??

Just finished the legs...I think the "4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)" direction should read "one end cut at 10 degree angle, other end square" it created a 10 degree gap where the 2x4 stretcher meets and Im trying to figure out the best way to fill it...am I wrong? Either way I have this gap to deal with :\

 
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You are correct

There is a mistake in the cutting directions. I got lucky and only had enough scrap to get one and a half legs done before I had to run out and get more, so only one of my legs are goofed. After I stained it, your don't even notice.

 
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Anyone added depth?

Has anyone made it 38" deep like the PB table dimensions? If I tweak it, will it make the table less sturdy? I'm just thinking 33 1/2" might be too narrow. Please let me know if you've done this already!! Thanks!

 
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Desk adaptation?

Has anyone tried adapting this for a large writing desk?
Thanks!

 
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Added depth

It would be easy enough to modify the depth/width, just add an extra 1x6 to the top and make all width measurements 5 1/2 inches wider and that should line up just fine. Your legs would be wider apart which could/should make the table more stable.

 
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there seems to be an additional problem

there seems to be an additional problem with the legs.
the cut list has 2 - 2x6 @ 38 1/2 for end aprons the diagram shows the end aprons at 29"
what is the length that should be used?

thanks

 
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above problem

that should read 2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2 not 38.

 
Ana White's picture
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Cut list not matching diagrams

Hey everyone, sorry for any confusion. I just went through the cut list and diagrams, and the cut list is actually 1/2" less in width than the diagrams show to get the table down to 33" total width to match the width of 6 - 2x6 boards (33"). I hope this makes sense?

 
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We will be having our 10th

We will be having our 10th child in May, our current table is woefully inadequate. Structurally, would this exact design work for a 12 foot table or would it need some additional support? Many thanks

 
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so in building follow the dimensions

So in building this I would want to follow the dimensions on the cut list and scale down the diagram widths by 1/2" when referring to the diagram? I can do that simple enough. Thanks for the clarification.

 
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Type of Wood

Hey! Great plans, do you have a recommendation on type of wood that would most closely resemble the Pottery Barn table?

Thanks,

Matt

 
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Two questions

Hi! My husband and I are so excited to have found your page with all of these great plans. We were wondering if you had a price estimate for building this table, and also as the previous commenter asked, what type of wood you would use?? Thank you so much!

Rachel

 
claydowling's picture
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Project pricing

Lumber prices are pretty radically different in different areas. You'll need to price them in your area to get a good idea. It also depends on where you buy the lumber from in your area. I can buy the lumber cheaper at a lumber yard than a home center.

As for the wood to use, buy pine or another softwood. If you're asking this question, you don't have the tools or techniques necessary for hardwoods. Of the softwoods, I most strongly recommend white or yellow pine. That means avoid anything labeled "whitewood" which may be spruce or fir. Yellow pine typically has a stamp on it somewhere (often the ends) with the letters SYP (Southern Yellow Pine). I don't know what the markings are for white pine, but if you go to an actual lumber yard (not a home center) and ask for it they'll be able to get it for you.

Look for No. 2 pine to get the most bang for your buck. It's not as clear as the Select & Better grade, but it's free of major knots and generally decent wood. It will have a lot less twisting and bowing. Home centers usually sell a grade lower (don't remember what it's called) that will be full of ugly knots and have a tendency to be twisted, warped and bowed.

 
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pipes

I just finished this table and a set of benches to match it and they turned out great. I followed these plans almost exactly. Mine is 1/2 inch narrower to accommodate the slightly narrower old barn siding I used for the top. It looks great and I am super excited about it. The only issue is that on the benches and the table the bottom spreader is about 57" apart not 60" so the pipes won't fit. I'm working on a solution to that and will do a brag post of these after I get them stained and sealed in two to three weeks.

 
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Table Built Stuck on Stain

Hi I've been working on this table for over a week now and its finally built. Like many I was inspired by the pottery barn table as well. What I have absolutely no clue on and could REALLY use some guidance is how to achieve the stained look? I used ash as my wood and really want to get near the color of this table or the one I saw on Shaunna's page. Can you help me and point me in the right direction?

 
claydowling's picture
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Stain selection

Try to find a store that sells General Finishes stains. Part of their sales display is a sample board showing how the stains look on a couple of different wood types.

I've been working with General's water based dyes and stains over the last month, and I've found them a lot better than what other manufacturers are offering. When I read the contents, I understood why. General is using the same formula I advocated over on my blog. I wish I could claim it's because they finally recognized my brilliance, but they were doing this long before I thought of it.

 
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Benchwright Bench?

I just finished building this table and Oh My Goodness it is beautiful! I want to build benches for it, but I'm not a smartie and wanted to know if Ana or someone else has done this? Or has some dimensions for me? I will also be submitting my brag post soon :). Tip for those interested in building: Listen to Ana when she says to Read Through All Directions AND Comments Before Building!

BTW- Ana you are AWESOME!

 
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finish?

we want to get the look of this table and we don't want a shiny lacquer look. we bought a light pecan stain that we think will look great but what do we do about sealing so that it is resistant to red wine stains? etc? is there a super matte sealant we can get?

 
claydowling's picture
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Finish sheen

Stephanie,

You can buy both water based and oil based polyurethanes with a matte or flat finish. You just need to remember to stir it before you use it, because the bits that make it matte settle to the bottom.

 

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