Rhyan Console Table
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Rhyan Console Table
Free DIY plans to build a beautiful console table based on the Pottery Barn Rhys console table, which is no longer available.
This console table has enough style to carry an entire room. I've been in love with it since first seeing it in Pottery Barn's catalogue, and have been trying to figure out how to incorporate it into my living room. When the doors [finally] fell off of my TV stand, I KNEW this would work to hold all of our TV accessories! Thankfully, Ana sent the plan over to me so that it could be built before being posted, to make sure the plan's accurate.
In addition to a drawer, I also added Euro hinges inside the top drawer face to easily open for cable box access. The hardware for the drawers was purchased here
1 – 1x4 @ 10 feet long
1 – 1x6 @ 3 feet long
2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x12 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x12 @ 10 feet long
5- 2x2 @ 8 feet long
¼ sheet of ¼” plywood or hardboard
2 sets 12” white drawer slides euro style bottom corner mount
2 sets narrow profile hinges and magnetic clasps OR Euro Style non mortise butt surface mount hinges
Knobs and handles
2 – 12x12 sheets ¼” acrylic glass and mirror clips
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
3 – 1x12 @ 43 ¾”
6 – 2x2 @ 11 ¼” (cut to width of 1x12s)
2 – 1x12 @ 13”
2 – 1x12 @ 13 ¾”
4 – 2x2 @ 32”
6 – 2x2 @ 43 ¾”
4 – 1x2 @ 13”
2 – 2x2 @ 17 ¼”
1 – ¼” plywood @ 16” x 46 ¾”
Drawer and Door cut list in instructions
Drill ¾” pocket holes along all sides of the shelves (only ends are shown, but go ahead and drill front and back sides too). Attach with 1 ¼” pocket hole screws and glue the end trim, keeping top edges flush.
Put one shelf aside (shown at bottom of diagram). From remaining two shelves, attach dividers and sides as shown above, hiding pocket holes to insides. Use ¾” pocket holes and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws and glue.
IMPORTANT: When pre-drilling the pocket holes in the dividers, go ahead and do some on the front and back, as well as the top and bottom. These will help when attaching the face frames.
The face frames will use a mixture of 1 ½” and ¾” pocket holes. If you are using any ¾” stock, revert to the ¾” pocket hole and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. For joints of 1 ½” stock to 1 ½” stock, use 1 ½” pocket holes and 2 ½” pocket hole screws.
As you build the face frames, make sure the frame stays true to measurements and matches up with the storage boxes. Check to make sure door and drawer openings measure true to size.
You will build two of these.
Attach face frames to box and bottom shelf through predrilled holes using glue and ¾” pocket hole screws. Add additional fasteners where needed to secure face frame to shelves and storage box.
Attach back with 1 ¼” finish nails and glue, nailing to all boards.
4 – 1x4 @ 12 ¾”
4 – 1x4 @ 14 ¾”
2 – 1x6 @ 17”
1 - 1/4" ply @ 12 3/4" x 16 1/4"
Build drawer boxes 1” less in width than the opening with 1x4s. Attach plywood to bottom. Attach drawer slides to sides of bottom and install drawer in cabinet. Drawer should sit inset when closed ¾” from outside of cabinet to give room for drawer face.
With drawer fully pushed in, align drawer faces up with drawers, with an even 1/8” gap on all sides. Nail on with 1 ¼” finish nails and glue. Remember to avoid areas you will add hardware to.
Next build doors from 1x2 stock. When satisfied with doors, test fit with hinges. Add acrylic glass to back using mirror clips. Install clasps to keep doors closed when shut.