Do you think it would be terribly difficult to add doors? We moved into a townhouse with an itty, bitty kitchen and I need some overflow storage. I like that these are adjustable. :)

DH is a bit OCD though and will not be ok with my crockpot and cans out for all to see!

Is the photo going to be featured in your book? It should be.

Amazing! I love how you know what I need at the moment I need it. And a video like this is wonderful, and you're very tv-genic :-).

Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive learn something like this before. So very good to locate somebody with some exclusive concepts on this subject. realy thank you for beginning this up. this internet site is something that is needed on the net, somebody with somewhat originality. valuable job for bringing something new to the internet!

I've experienced the pain first hand of nails from a brad nailer that pull out. I didn't know about glue coated nails. Those might be necessary for a future project.

If you don't have a nailer, I read a good article a couple weeks ago about using cut nails: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/…

They're supposed to have a better gripping power than a regular nail. The article also has some good points about how to choose the right nail for the job, something I'd never known before. I'll be picking up a box of the trim nails with my next Lee Valley order.

You really like your purple long tee don't you?

I apologize too did not mean to come off so defensive! What is up with me??? Thank you for reading and visiting!

Lol I'm actually wearing the purple top right now!

You always look like a supermodel Ana:-) Even in cold weather gear!!

Ana I find that when I use my kreg jig pocket hole thingy that the wood splits when I am attaching the screws. Am I putting the holes too close the end or am I putting the screws in too far? Thanks for you help.

Chances are you're over-tightening the screws. If that's a persistent problem for you, try switching to a doweling jig and use dowel tenons to attach your joints. It's a little harder than a pocket hole jig, but not a lot, and it won't split out the wood. Most hardware and home improvement stores sell doweling jigs.

If you want to go really hard core, you could learn to cut dados and rabbets to capture the uprights in the top and bottom. That takes more expensive tools, but is very strong and will look very sharp. You can cut those with a router, which is expensive, or a hand saw and a chisel or router plane. I've done both and found the hand tools easier for getting a good accurate cut. Plus, it's just fun to watch the wood roll away from the chisel.

My wood split on the dream dollhouse project that I made... Like you, it was normally when the holes were drilled too close to the end. I just put wood glue where it split and clamped it til it was dry. Then sanded it down before painting it. I redrilled the holes on the second floor so they were about 2 inches from the end and it made a world of difference.

I was just about to buy the cube self from Ikea but I wasn't happy with the thought of that. I love your version so much better. I love the adjustable selves. And I can make it the exact size that I want it to be. You always come up with what I need. First I need to build a storage self in my daughters room for her books, tv, and toys. That should be really easy with this same method. BTW I love your new videos!! You are so encouraging!!

Seriously, could you be any cooler? Awesome website! Can't wait to try this!

I would simply put a nail at each side of the opening and tie a piece of rope on them, so that I can hang a cute little curtain to cover the inside.

I really appreciate you posting videos here and there about the projects. It really gives me the visual boost needed to accomplish jobs. I recently bought a kreg jig but have yet to use it. Seeing someone else handling one really helps me see how its done. Maybe I can attempt something when the kids go to bed tonight :) Thank you so much for your site.

Ana,
Great project, I'm hoping mine turns out as nice. Just a note, your cut list doesn't mention the two inside 1x12's, it looks like they are 42 3/4 long?

Ana, what kind of wood did you use for the 1x12 boards? In your video, you mentioned using poplar for the trim - which I'm definitely doing.

Did you use poplar for the 1x12's as well or did you use a softer wood there? I am heading to HD (either today or tomorrow) to buy wood for a tall version of this (2 cubbies wide x 4 cubbies tall). So kind of a mix of your two plans put together. :)

Pine is cheaper, so that's why I was wondering. :) The whole thing will be painted so mixing the woods won't be that big of a deal. Just curious what you used in your video.

Does anyone know how I could attach this to the wall?

If you want to hang it on the wall, there are a couple of things you can do:

1) A french cleat makes it easy to move. http://www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html These are great for cabinet systems in workshops or craft rooms, because it's easy to rearrange your cabinets as your needs change.

2) You could screw through the back and into studs with very long screws. There are special cabinet screws that are designed not to pull out easily. I think I've seen them at Lowes and Home Depot, but I'm not sure.

Thanks for the link, I took at it and it looks like something to add to the arsenal. I assume for the second option that you're talking as if I added a back to it.

Is it possible to just make this without a pocket hole drill? Can you just use regular screws? I definitely can't afford to buy one right now, but we do have a regular drill.

You are so inspiring! We want to build a couple of step cubby bookcases (something like this: http://fromthesourceny.com/blog/2010/05/railroad-step-shelving/).  the plan is to have a left and right shelfing unit with a space between to divide our loft into an office area and a sitting area.

Can you give a few pointers on how you would modify the plans to do the steps?Thanks again for your great website!!

Doris

Did anyone else build this using the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig? I am in the middle of building this project now, and on the two 1 x 12's in the middle of the bookshelf, you end up with holes that go all the way through the board when you drill both sides. I didn't see anything about this issue on the Kreg site or in this post, so I was wondering if this happened for anyone else? Maybe no one else considers this an issue? Or maybe it won't really be very noticeable?

First, I love this website!

Second,
I purchased the materials and tools listed above, made all the cuts and was ready to start pre-drilling holes using the Kreg Jig when I noticed something.
None of the steps ever mention the two center vertical boards. The ones the shelves actually need to sit on. I was looking around like I had lost a whole 1x12 wondering what I did wrong. The materials list says you only need three 1x12x8 and none of the cuts listed mention the two 42 3/4 inch center boards. Did I read something wrong or do I need to go buy a fourth 1x12x8? I hate having to stop right in the middle when it was going so smoothly.. Thanks!

I am totally loving this site. Way to go Ana! I am in the process of building this cubby shelf and I love the plans available. Thank you for all you do!

The box frame picture seems to indicate that the top rests on the side panels , however the pocket holes seem to attach from the top towards the side panel. Should it not be the other way around?.

Hello Saved By Grace.

Thanks for the suggestion. Just wondering if the joint would last long if the pocket hole were put on the vertical board. The reason I say that is because
the pocket hole will be the direction of pull (if one were to lift it move etc..)

I am considering reducing the lenght of the top horizontal board to 431/2 inches
and also reducing the middle vertical boards by 42 inches. Will update when
done.

Hey Ana...not sure if I missed it but what are the measurements and size of wood used for the actual shelves?

Can anyone who painted this project lend some advice as to which you did first and why...paint or drill the shelf-pin holes? My concern for painting first is the possibility of maring the painted surface when drilling the holes. Conversely, I'm worried about drilling the shelf-pin holes first and then having the holes get "filled" with paint and having to take the time to clean each and every one of them out! Not sure if this is really an issue but I've never used shelf pins so I just want to make sure.

By the way...for a beginning woodworker (and advanced woodworkers I'm sure) this site is incredible! Thank you so much for the valuable tips, videos, and plans. Top notch!

Hello,

When I plan my cutting list, I calculate 4 1x12 instead of 3...

Can't wait to build this! 

I started the large cubby bookshelf project and the shopping list calls for 3 1x12 @8 ft long. By the time I made the required cuts 2 @ 45 1/2", 1 @ 45", 1 @ 43 1/2" and 2 @ 42 3/4" for the box I had used up all 3 1x12's. Is that a typo and you're suppose to have 4 boards? Now I don't have wood for the shelves and I'm hoping I didnt do that wrong. 

Thanks!It is very helpful. I would like to share with you something that has worked for me.  A huge thanks to my friend who suggested me: https://bit.ly/31tsaI2 me through which I could access the world's largest collection of wood plans for every project imaginable. It's very very detailed expalanation helped me build projects with no waste of time searching or thinking for a plan. Searching in the internet has been a time cosnsuming thing for me, with very incomplete details that they provide. It saved a lot of my money too. Oh Gosh! I just can't recommend this enough and trust me, it's worth every penny.

I had to go buy another 1x12 for the shelves. Perhaps the buy list should read 4-1x12's instead of 3?

The plan shorts you one 1X12X8. Three 1X12s will make the unit, you need an additional 1X12 to make the shelves.