Fancy X Farmhouse Table

Build X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s for $65 !!! Free DIY plans from


Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!


Author Notes: 

We've been up to our old tricks again!

Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag! 

Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

From Whitney:

This is my very favorite build yet!
I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight.
Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

OF COURSE the center piece is also DIY - so make sure you head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

Thanks Whitney!!!

Shopping List: 

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long
7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long
3” screws, 2 ½” PH screws, 2” finish nails

General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions are shown above.
Cut List: 

8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
4 – 2x4 @ 20”
4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”

2 – 2x4 @ 65”
2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)
4 – 2x10 @ 96”

** For straight cut legs replace these cuts with:
4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel LP)
4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel LP)

Step 1: 

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Then just laminate two with glue and 2” finish nails from each side.

Step 3 Instructions: 

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws here and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

And then add the curved pieces. The ends are going to be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8” , short point to short point. Practice with your saw to get the perfect cuts.

Step 5 Instructions: 

And screw the bottom on ...

Step 6 Instructions: 

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7 Instructions: 

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8 Instructions: 

Then the cross braces

Step 9 Instructions: 

And finally the top! If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10 Instructions: 

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11: 

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 


DROOL!!!!!!!! This is absolutely gorgeous! I have got to find an excuse to build this! Whitney, your table turned out beautiful!!! LOVE the finish!

Speaking of finish, can you share what type of wood (I'm guessing cheap-O, stud-grade 2x4's since you said $65) and finishing techniques you used?

I took a look at the original too. I like this version better.

If you wanted to simplify your build you could use 4x4 anyplace that the doubled 2x4s appear. That assumes, of course, that you can lay hands on good quality 4x4s, and you have the tools to work easily with 4x4s.

I am so going to see if my dad would help me make this (he's teaching me how to woodwork)!

LOVVVEEEEEE the table and have wanted a farmhouse table! Headed to buy lumber this morning, just need clarification on "45 degree angle off square, NOT parallel". I googled it and can only find it on AnaWhite.
Thanks so much! Can't wait to have my table:)

You're just making two 45 degree cuts (on a miter saw), that are not parallel. With parallel cuts, you can just slide the board down and continue cutting, but in this case, you'll either have to adjust your miter saw to go to 45 degrees on the other side, or pick up the board, turn it, and make another cut (it'll look like /________\ instead of
/___________/ ). Hope I didn't confuse you more!

It looks like you could just halve all the width dimensions (instead of 4 - 2"x10" boards, use 2), and then the length and height can be done to your specifications. For length, instead of 8 feet long, I would go with 5 1/2 feet long (allowing enough room for the bench to slide under the table - somewhere around the length (65") of the bottom cross beam of the table - 2/3 of the length seems adequate). For the height, leave yourself enough leg room. Considering the table height is 30", I would get the bench height around 20" (use 2/3 - two-thirds - measurements).

I plan on making benches to these dimensions to match the table. I may tweak these numbers as I go, but they are somewhere in the ballpark.

If someone makes this, can you please make a video of some of the more difficult steps? For instance, some of the diagrams don't specify where to put screws and it is confusing.

I LOVE this table, and I've been dreaming of an table like this for my patio. Do you have plans for benches that look similar to this? I found others on your website, but they don't "match". Which would be fine with me, just thought it would be cool to have similar benches too. Thanks!!!!

Thinking of making it a little narrower and putting the brace to the back more so I can use this in my crafts room against a wall. Thank you Ana for the plans! We are renovating our whole house and a lot of my finishing touches ideas in the woodwork come from this site, and everyone loves the house :)

You can also use bleach (household or pool) to accelerate the decomposition of the softer wood fibers. Apply the bleach, wrap the wood in Saran Wrap, and let the bleach do the work. After a day or so of soaking, unwrap and rinse the board; use a wire brush to remove the softened wood.

Soak a bat of 0000 (extra fine) steel wool in a 500-750ml jar full of vinegar (regular works fine, but "pickling vinegar" works better due to the higher acid content) overnight (8-12 hours). Pour through a coffee filter and then brush on your wood. Leave for 15 minutes and you'll see the wood grey. If it's not dark enough just repeat, but one application is generally plenty) Note: The liquid will still appear clear in the jar, that's OK....this process works through oxidization rather than pigments).

I have ALWAYS wanted a farmhouse table since there are 5 of us in the house and we do love to entertain at holidays too. I was excited to find this posted on Pinterest and even MORE excited when I showed my husband and he's game for building one. Someone had posted and asked about there being possible instructions for benches. Do any instructions like that exist (yet)?? Thanks so much!!

Could you tell me what you would suggest changing to make this a 6ft table? I was planning to take the difference out of the 2x4s that join the ends, but then the cross braces wouldn't fit. Sorry if this is Something obvious, I am new to this kind of thing!

Thanks :)

I was thinking the same thing to put this in my dining room, but figured I could adjust the angle of the cross braces so that there is 12" between them on the bottom brace and it should work. The original table shows the cross braces with a lot more room between them so I think it would work fine.

LOVE this table! My husband and I are building one for our dining room this weekend.
We are going to put a bench on one side and chairs on the other.

I was wondering how many people you could fit on each side comfortably. I may need to adjust the measurements a little to accommodate everyone.


I also am new to wood working, but am in LOVE with this table. The only other projects I have tackled where very specific about each step. I have cut all the end pieces,and will also be adjusting the length by a foot, so will cut those later, but would love a little more info on screw placement, size, how best to hide them. I will be counter sinking and purchased a Kreg jig. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx and keep creating, you inspire us all!

Hey, love it and plan on making it this weekend but im new at this and need some help understanding the cuts. when you say:

4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **


** For straight cut legs replace these cuts with:
4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel LP)
4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel LP)

what does that mean? do i replace those cuts or they are not related at all? sorry, it just really confused me and if anyone could help, that would be great!

Thanks so much for the free plan! My hubby built this table one afternoon. It looks wonderful on our back covered porch! We made ours 6ft long so it wouldn't be so crunchy for walking area. I paired it with wicker/metal patio chairs from Sears. I can't wait to stain and distress it! :)

Are people really building this at $65???

My husband built this table and the two smaller benches (we want to put captains chairs at the ends) this weekend. He bought all of the lumber, a $100 Kreg Jig, stain, and screws for $300. The ENTIRE project $300!

I recently built this table and I managed the build this table for around $45.
According to the cut list you need 7 -2x4 but I needed 8 somehow.
At my local lumber yard this is what it cost me.
4-2x10@8foot =$19.36
8-2x4@8foot = $19.04
1-1x4@12foot =$3.12
1- box of 3" screws =$2.37
Kregg Jig= borrowed. (I will be buying one)
Wood Glue= Had on hand
Stain=had on hand
Total =$43.89 before tax

Even if you didnt use the Kregg Jig and had to buy wood glue and stain you can still get by at around $60.

Totally doable.

Hi there Whitney, this is my first time on the Ana White site but I am so impressed with these super designs, you are very clever. I am converting it to metrics and please excuse me if this is a silly question, but in the cut list when I add up the 2x4 (5 cuts), I get 52 feet. But the shopping list says buy 56 feet, luckily for me my timber merchant is cutting it all for so I wanted to double check that that I am not missing something with the missing 4 feet? I have read the designs and can't find it. Could you confirm? Many thanks, Chris

I was wondering if you used a better quality wood, like cedar or redwood, if you could go with 1 x 4's instead of the 2 x 4's. I'm concerned about the strength but know that the better quality wood is stronger than the cheap stuff...any thoughts? Thanks!

Forgive my ignorance, but what are PH screws? And how many do you need for the table?

Ashley, PH means Pocket Hole screws. Used with the Kreg Jig which produces pocket holes. Go to Whitney's site to see a pic with an example of pocket holes (in the stretcher going between the two "legs" of the table)

Step 1 places the 20" upright. I'm struggling with the math here... the table is meant to be 29 3/4" tall in total, but if the thickness of all the horizontals and the top total 13" (1" for the feet, 2" + 2" + 1" for both the bottom and top of the end pieces, plus another 2" for the table top), this leaves only 16 3/4" for the uprights. I can't get my head around how they're supposed to be 20" and still produce a table 29 3/4" tall. And where does the fraction of an inch come from?? Help please...

Hi Guest Brian, these might be called pocket hole screws, Kreg screws, washer head pocket screws. In our local Lowes there are 2 brands available, the Kreg brand screws (here's a link)

and the Hillman brand (works exactly like kreg brand), here's a link

I've only seen the Kreg brand of pocket hole jigs and drill bits at our local Lowes. These links both have a picture you can show the salesperson.
Hope this helps?

This table is so simple to build! Love the farm look. Looking for matching benches to build to go with it! Thanks for sharing all these amazing plans! I have. Family of 8 and we needed a bigger dining room table, this is perfect and definitely way more durable than any of that "cheap stuff" you find in a furniture store! Looking forward to many many years of meal time memories at my new table!

I just found this site the other from Pinterest and I must say I have fallen in love. I love the video section and the great instruction on how to build your own furniture. I must say you have inspired me.

I was wanting to know if you had a kid version of the x farmhouse table. I would love to attempt to build one for my three little boys. :)

I want to stack two 2x4s (join them together with glue, nails and wood filler) to make the mitered boards for the table ends look thicker like 4x4s. Perhaps even turn the board so the seam is facing floor/ceiling. Any suggestions on how to get the dimensions/angles right for that?

Grant - Stack the 8-foot boards, glue them and clamp them every foot or so. After they have dried, make the cuts through the stack ... you will need a 10" miter saw to cut a doubled 2x4

The cut at the longest dimension will be the same: 11 3/8" with the finished board looking like this: /___ \


Love this table and am wanting to make this for a Christmas party this year. I am wondering how the plans could be modified to suit a square table to seat 12 people?
Also are their bench seat plans to go with this plan?
I have seen the other comments above bu thought perhaps you may be emailing them to people.

Can't wait to make this table it is gorgeous

i need to know how to make benches if i could get demention that would be great. im am building this for a chirtmas present for my wife.

I think i have it figured on how to screw everything together except for the table top. How do you attach the 4 2x10s together and then to the tables base?

I have figured out where to place the screws and such for the base of the table, but have no idea how to attach the 4 2x10s together to make the table top or how to the attach the base to the table top. Any advice?

Hi! I love the plans for the farm house table! I need a larger table that will seat 12 -14 people or larger. HOW WOULD YOU ADAPT THE PLANS FOR A LARGER TABLE?

I can easily handle a table up to 14' long or 8' x 8' sq. on the patio I am building. I prefer the square design.

Love this style of table. i plan on making two tables from this pattern. A long one for outside with the bench seating. A smaller version for the dining area in my home. My dining space is rather small. A similar version of this table is also featured in the Better Homes and Garden Magazine, February issue. The chairs in the article are mix-matched in two different styles. They are also painted in two different colors. I cannot decide if I want benches for seating for the inside table or paint the chairs.

Love it Love it! I am going to build two tables. A long version for outside with the bench seating. A smaller version to use in my dining area space. The Better Homes and Garden magazine shows a similar version of this table in the February editon. In the article the mix-matched chairs are painted in two different colors. Its a really great idea. I am kind of torn between chairs or benches. But in the end I think it will be chairs that will be used inside. My husband would prefer chairs.

How do you attach the cross braces? I read somewhere that someone suggested using countersink screws from the bottom and top. I can't find 5 inch screws. This is my first project.

Melissa Brown

I am confused about that too. Perhaps on the narrow top edge of the 2x4? I am still wondering how to attach the top as well. Are the boards joined together before screwing them down?

So I've now been working on the project for I think two or three months, and so far it's pretty much been a total nightmare. 2x4s and especially 2x10s are not easy to work with other than for simple crosscuts. When I built the base of the table I was having constant issues with not being able to get the cut angles consistent (using a circular saw - I've seen bought a small table saw, partially because of my frustration with this project), and when I eventually got that to a point I called "good enough," the top of the table has proved to be da**ed near impossible. I've probably spent hours sifting through 2x10s (which in itself is not easy work) trying to find the rare few that weren't badly cracked or otherwise damaged, and what I thought was at least reasonably straight, only to get them home and find that they warped or cupped after sitting in my basement for a few days. Then even more frustrating is none of them seem to be cut perfectly straight down the sides, so I'm unable to join them together in a way that makes it look like a single surface - I might as well have been building a picnic table to stick in our dining room. My next step is probably going to be to see if I can find some better quality kiln-dried wood to see if it works better for the top - but it doesn't come in 2x10 form, apparently only 1x10. Side note - I don't know where the $60 materials price came from, but even not counting mess-ups I'd say closer to $100 is probably more accurate once you've included hardware, stain, etc even if you stick with the low-end construction pine - just the 2x10 boards for the tabletop are close to $10 a pop (so hopefully I'll find another use for them since they're basically garbage now that it looks like they're unusable for the table).

Really sorry you are having such problems. Those of us that patronize Lowe's and Home Depot live with similar problems on every project but I guess we get use to it. We learn that sometimes you have to go to both stores to get the total shopping list. But I would suggest that you make your interest and needs known to a "local" lumberyard. They typically stock pine in No 1 grade which is usually straight, un-warped, and the fewest knots. And the price is less than at big Blue or big Orange. Mine even lets me rummage through their pile of sticks and pick my own.

You can cut good joints with a circular saw but try and find yourself a used chop saw. Probably $50 will get you a great saw but equip it with a really good blade which will cost you another $40 but well worth it.

The last comment I have is to ignore the posts that brag about how quickly or how cheaply (or both) they build a project. I would double every number you see in that respect. Hey pockethole screws cost nearly 10 cents each so on a big project with 100 PHs that is $10 by itself. Add in glue, sandpaper, paint or stain and you are nearing $50 and haven't bought wood. So build at your own pace. We all do.


Love this table! I saw the desk version on shabby-chic and am going to attempt it starting today. WISH ME LUCK....THERE IS A FIRST FOR EVERYTHING. However, for the dining room table I was wondering if there are any ways to add extension on the ends? I have seen tutorials for such tables, but didn't know if you had suggestions or plans for this particular table to add extension underneath. Thanks for your help and can't wait to test my skills!

So it's probably been something like 10 months that I've been working on this project off an on, including countless hours of sifting through piles of lumber in hopes of finding the best stock (wasted time since it all warped after I got it home anyway), cutting, hand planing (OH so much planing), and sanding - all to still end up with a curved tabletop. I threw in the towel today - I give up. I'm just hoping I can find another use for the probably $70+ worth of lumber I've got put into this thing. Mind you my expectations probably exceeded what the project was designed for - I wanted a flat, seamless tabletop created from multiple boards. I've seen countless commercially made tables made this way so I figured I should be able to do it was well - but it just isn't going to happen. I did also notice going through photos of other peoples' work that it seems the majority of projects that turned out really nicely were *not* made with pine. If you're someone who's OK with having a tabletop made with multiple, slightly warped, disconnected boards, this project I'm sure is fine. I just had to learn the long, hard way that this thing wasn't going to work out the way I personally wanted it to.

Your frustration is quite evident. I would suggest two things: First, the goal of any project, especially something you are new at is: To Finish. This means, whatever it takes. If it isn't finished, it doesn't exist, and so has little or no use, little is learned and nothing is gained. This applies to earning a Black Belt, earning an MD, running your first race, earning anything you set as your goal; finish.

Second: Accept the result as reflecting the best you can do at this time, and let it go at that.

I once saw a brand new hand built aerobatic aircraft, built by a master German builder named Walter Extra. It was very expensive, a bit less than half a million, and the most beautiful aircraft I had ever seen, but I had an idea. I said to Walter who was there in person from Germany delivering the aircraft, what do you think you could have done better. His eyes lit up and he started in about the paint, and this fitting with that, and on and on... Exactly as I had thought. To the builder it was far from perfect, and to me, experienced with aircraft, the most beautiful creation I had ever seen outside of the military.

Now back to your farm house table; I believe your expectations exceeded your ability and experience, and you weren't willing to accept what you had built as the best you could do. I firmly believe if you could have done better you would have. So, that said, finish it. What ever it may look like, make it so. Use all the ingenuity you poses, use all the determination you poses, use all the tools you poses, finish it, make it live. If you have to use different wood for the top, if you have to use steel underneath to tame the warp, if you have to use biscuits, set a reasonable time limit, say 1 week... and finish it. Then except it for what it is, the best you can do at this time.

Many of the tables you see here looking so beautiful, up close would show many of the same problems and failures you encountered. A picture hides many a flaw that the eye would normally spot.

Your table will be uniquely yours. Use it as you see fit, for a dining table, for an outside table, as a work bench for the next project you tackle, building on what you learned on this one, or give it away. Don't let failure be yours; don't own it, don't accept it, don't settle for it, don't let failure in your house.

I surfed the web searching for a table and that´s it, this is my next to do job. 

I´m writing from Spain, and I was trying to translate units, we use to work in decimal system so I decided to take inches to centimetres. 

The point is that

the 4 2x10@96 you use to do the top does not match my lengths because 

4 x 10 = 40 

and the painting shows 

37 inches wide 

 ¿where are the 3 inches left? 

sorry about my english, and thanks in advance

the length of the table is 96''. Which is too long for my dining room. If i want it to be 72'', will the dimensions change for the other parts?

I did the same - I also shortened the base by 24" - this resulted in the lengths and angles of the two angled boards in the middle of the table changing. After some trial and error I eventually decided to handle this by leaving them off.

I want to make this table along with other projects. What tools would I need to complete this project?

I eventually gave up on the 2x boards for a table top, they just weren't working to create the type of surface I wanted. I ended up buying two pre-glued pine panels and putting them together (at about $30 a pop) and although the tabletop is less than half the thickness of the original plan, I'm much happier with it, and it's taking place of honor in our dining room. I just entered a "brag" post which is on page 15 of the above slide strip if anyone is interested.
Not even counting the wood that got tossed (which was a bunch, although I did re-use the 2x10s by making raised garden beds with them), I'd roughly estimate this project ended up costing about $120, or about twice what is stated at the top of the plan page. That's for 2x4s, the two pine panels, hardware, stain, polyurethane, etc.
It was an amazingly frustrating experience as I think I had pictured something in my head that just wasn't going to happen with these materials, however I'm pretty happy with the eventual end result.

I've just been reading through all the comments on this project, and I saw that you had repeated problems with 2x10s warping _in your basement_. Don't know what your basement is like, but it's bound to be damper and colder than your dining room, as you said you were wanting to build a dining room table. You should really let the wood acclimate where it's going to be used.

When we built our deck, we left the wood out back of the house for a week before we started. Luckily, our very careful screening for bad boards paid off and we could use all but one out of more than 100. Same procedure for wood flooring, letting it rest in the room(s) where it will be used.

Anyway, if you're making a picnic table, let the wood adjust to its new environment outside. A dining room table, let it wait in the dining room. You're much less likely to have nasty surprises as your project "ages," if the wood was fully acclimated before you started to cut and assemble. HTH


Does anyone have a plan or know of where I can get a plan for this but in shorter length? The table I have right now is 64 inch and would like to have it similar to that.

After building the table and deciding I wanted matching benches for it I started looking for plans, with no luck. I decided to use the 2/3 method and it worked great. Here are the measurements for one bench.

I used four 2"x4"x8' and two 2"x10"x8'

Cut List: (All are 2"x4" Lumber except when noted.)
4 - 13 3/8" Cut flush on ends (Bench Leg Spine)
8 - 7 5/8" Cut 45 degrees off center on both ends (X's)
4 - 16 1/2" Cut 45 degrees off center on both ends
4 - 16 1/2" Cut flush on ends
2 - 57" (Bench Stringers)
2 - 17" Ends Cut 45 Degrees parallel (Bench Stringer Supports)
2 - 86" 2"x10" (Bench Seats)

I left the 1x lumber out of the benches because I did not do the rounded look and I wanted them to be about 21" tall.

I began assembling the legs just like the table, measure 5 1/2" from each end of the 13 3/8" pieces and mark a square line on each. This is there you line up the X pieces. Assemble just like you did the table legs until you have both of your frames.

Next, I screwed the 16 1/2" 45 degree off center piece onto the X in place of the 1"x4" from the table, short side toward the X, this lined the miter up with the angle of the X for a nice clean look. Next, I screwed the 16 1/2" flush cut piece to the mitered piece, finishing out that side. I repeated this until both frames were complete.

The distance between my table legs was 65 1/4" and I wanted the bench legs to slide just inside of the table legs. I decided to make the outside distance of the bench legs 64". With 7" in width on the legs I made the stringers 57" each. Screw them to the top and bottom of the bench legs just like you did with the table.

I then attached the 17" seat stringer supports with screws, finishing out the frame.

****Note**** I went ahead and sanded the frame because it was much easier to get to without the seat boards attached.

I then attached the seat boards to the legs with an 11" overhang on each end. I sanded and finished it to match the table. It is drying in my shop as we speak.

I hope this made sense, if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

Robert Powers
Dickinson, Texas

Is there any way to make this table a little more narrow? Instead of 37 inches wide, say.....32/33? Maybe use 2x8's instead of 2x10's for the top? We have a narrow eating area and the table as is is a bit too wide.

This is my first project and I'm super excited about it. The plans don't say how to attach the table top. Any suggestions?

The plans are simple and clear! Thank you Ana and Shanty2Chic! I used a vintage style finish by cover each piece in white acrylic paint....distressing with 100 grit, and then lightly rubbing in weathered gray stain. The look is incredible!

ok...Im not sure why an administrator has NOT addressed this issue (i mean its kinda an important step:)
so what i did was add (2) 2x4 flat between the 2 legs flush with the top of the legs (i placed them towards the outer edge of the legs)..... i attached the 2x4's with 2 pocket screws at either end....Place your top upside down on the floor and set your "base" where you want it, then screw thru the added 2x4 into the top (counter sink your screws)......hope this helps all of you who DONT want to see the tops of screws as you're eating dinner on your beautiful new table :)

ps. you can modify this by adding just 1 2x4 in between the two legs (centered)


Hi.  I have a question regarding attaching the 65" cross beams between the two legs.  Above, it said: 

Step 7 Instructions: 

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges


Does this mean you stacked the pocket holes, one atop the other, on the 2" (1.5) side of the 2x4 so the holes would be hidden by the table top?  If that's the case, I had no idea I could do that with the Kreg.  

Or did you mean to put a 1 1/2" pocket hole on the bottom edge and a 2 1/2" pocket hole on the top edge, or vice versa?  If that's the case, why the difference in the two hole depths?




A 1 1/2" pocket hole depth would be the appropriate depth for a 2 1/2" PH screw, in general. That way it's penetrating 1" into the other piece of wood...I considered your idea (that is, 1 hole up top and one on the bottom) but instead used wood pocket hole plugs, glue and filler to hide the holes and they are virtually invisible. Good luck.

Having trouble finding the dimensions for the wood. I can find them in Douglas Fir but don't want to use Fir. From AZ does anyone know of a good lumber store besides lowes and Home Depot?

Hi there,

I'm hoping to make a table that can accomodate 10 (4 on each side and 1 on each end). When researching dimensions for comfortable seating, 9-10ft seems like the magic range.. I was wondering if anyone had plans for a larger table or can i just adjust the table top length and keep everything the same? would this create a balance or make it wobble?

thanks so much!