Rustic X Coffee Table

Build a rustic X coffee table with free easy plans from


Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!


Author Notes: 

Hey hey!

Happy Monday!

Thanks so much with your patience with the site this morning.  We are growing (it's a good thing!) and are due for a server upgrade, but ALWAYS know keeping the site up and running fast is super important to me, and we are working very hard to improve the user experience of this site.  What can I say?  I APPRECIATE you each and every time you visit, and want to make sure each time you visit is pleasant for you.  Thank you!

We have started working again at the Momplex!  So this week, I will start posting about our progress up there!  I also owe you some Alaska stuff too :)  Cause you ARE going to come visit, right?  

But today, I just couldn't wait to share a new plan with you!

Remember a bit back when <the super amazing> Hillary built this amazing Rustic X Console Table from 2x4s? 

Yup, 2x4s!  And some Hillary magic.

Well, after 22,000 of YOU <hey, thanks!> pinned the console table, of course we HAD to put together coffee table plans for you!

And man is she beautiful!

I ENCOURAGE you to stop over and visit Hillary and read about how she battled a wild fire to build this coffee table!  Thanks Hillary!

PS - Hillary is also be sharing her finishing tutorial and <gasp!> an end table plan!!!!  Can't wait!

Shopping List: 

2 – 2x4 – 8 feet or stud length
4 – 2x2 – 8 feet
1 – 1x12 – 8 feet long
5 – 2x6 – stud length
1 ¼” and 2 ½” PH screws

measuring tape
safety glasses
hearing protection
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions are shown above.
Cut List: 

4 – 2x4 @ 16 ½” (legs)
4 – 2x2 @ 41” (side trim)
4 – 2x4 @ 22 ½” (end trim)
2 – 1x12 @ 41” (bottom shelf)
2 – 2x2 @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)
4 – 2x2 @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)
5 – 2x6 @ 52” (tabletop boards)

Step 1: 

First build the two side trim pieces.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Then connect together. Hide top pocket holes on top, bottom pocket holes on bottom. NOTE: This plan is sized for 1x12 boards measuring 11 1/4" wide - measure your 1x12 boards, double that number, and cut your side trim to fit - see next step.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Build your bottom shelf with 3/4" PHs/1 1/4" PH screws down center. Then drill 3/4" PHs around all outside edges and attach to the bottom shelf.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now attach cut and build the X braces. Attach in place. These are mostly decorative, so don't stress about getting them super screwed in place. Some good glue and screws will do the trick.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Build your top with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. Then attach to top of table through the side support apron pieces with 2 1/2" screws (you can use a few PH screws if you have them handy).

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 


Ana everything you do with this site is perfect! It is a happy moment in my day when I check to see what cool new thing Ana has that I might someday build! Keep up the great work! And I LOVE LOVE LOVE this table, thanks again for another amazing plan!

You just keep doing it! Every time I build a coffee table, you post plans for ANOTHER one I want to build! Love this. It's absolutely fantastic, and I just have to build it and find a friend who needs one ;)

Love love! The providence bench was beautiful and I can't wait to get this started! Maybe in a great aqua or bright sky blue. Thanks for the site and all of the encouragement Ana! Blessings. Warmly Jay. ;o)

Hi, I'm looking to get into making furniture. I was just wondering what sort of wood you use to get that rustic look, sort of weathered? Or how do you treat the wood or stain it.

Thanks, great site by the way,


Hi Chris,
Check out the link at the top for Hillary, she as step by step instructions on the oxidizing process she uses to get that awesome grayish color. I can't wait to make this!!

Chris, you should check out the link at the top of the page for Hillary. She has step by step instuctions for the process she uses to make the wood that beautiful grayish color. Check it out!

I just finished building this table this morning! It is awesome but I still need to sand and finish it. I will submit a brag post later when finished (if my oxidizing finish turns out as good as Hillary's). The only thing that happened to me though was I needed 3-2x2's not just 2. I didn't see any way to cut the 2 that I had to be able to make the side aprons and the x braces. Maybe it was just me and my inexperience though. Either way, I'm very happy with my new table! Thanks Ana and Hillary!

Hi Hillary. I submitted a brag post. I don't know why it's not showing up here, but it is on Ana's homepage. I'm really happy with the results, but if I could go back I would have sealed it with poly instead of wax. While I love the feel and subtle sheen of the wax, it is not holding up well against the kids. It's only been a few days and it is scratched from my little ponies and matchbox cars. It won't be long before I haul it back out to the garage and reseal it. :( we live and learn though, right?!

Hi. I am in the process of building this table. I have a question about the placement of the pocket holes for joining the top pieces. Lets call the top boards piece A,B,C,D and E. When joining A to B then B to C and so forth, do you recommend drilling all the pocket holes in board A with the screws going into board B or would it be better to alternate, drilling every other hole in A, with screws going into B, and the alternating holes would be drilled into B with screws going into A.
I hope this question makes sense. It sounds complicated but I have no idea how to word it more simply.

Thank you so much Ana and Hillary for the amazing plans and beautiful example. I am so excited to get this built. It will be a house warming gift for my best friend's son.

Hi, Autum. I just go one way. So drill into one edge of each board except the last one, and then join A to B, B to C, C to D, etc. The joints are really strong, especially with glue between the boards. No need to complicate it. :)

My husband and i are getting ready to make this - can't wait!!!! Thank you for all your plans - and even more for making them free!!! Its wonderful to be able to afford beautiful pieces!

If you are building this, be sure to purchase three (3) 2x2's by 8-ft long as the material list above is not sufficient. Also, if you are wanting to put baskets on the bottom shelf, be sure to measure the height of the baskets prior to cutting the legs - you may also want to modify the height of the legs or space between the bottom shelf and top support to allow enough space.

My wife and I really want to build this table. However, I am confused about something... The tools list says that you'll need a countersink drill bit, but nowhere in the building instructions does it say anything about countersinking screws. According to the plans, all of the wood is joined with pocket holes and screws using the Kreg Jig.

Do I need a countersink drill bit?

Where does everyone buy their 2x4's? Do you just use the dimensional lumber from orange or blue? It's usually pretty rough and dinged up. Can you buy better quality 2x4's somewhere?

I was looking at the diagram, and the X is attached at the top and bottom, but when it was made it was attached to the sides. Shouldn't the cut list be different if it is attached to the sides? Or is this just Hillary's version? Looks good either way, just curious.

I was looking at the diagram, and the X is attached at the top and bottom, but when it was made it was attached to the sides. Shouldn't the cut list be different if it is attached to the sides? Or is this just Hillary's version? Looks good either way, just curious.

Please excuse the simple nature of my questions. I have never done a woodworking project and hope to make this my first.

1) How many PH's per board to attach each of the top boards and shelf boards to one another?

2) When you attach the bottom shelf I assume you flip it over and attach them from the bottom with PHs. What holds the board in place while you are trying to screw it upside down. Seems ackward the way I am visualizing it, but I'm sure there is a way that you experience people know of.

Thanks so much!

Hi Ana! I'm obsessed with your site and am now convinced (and confident!) to build my own coffee table. I live in a small one bedroom in manhattan. I was hoping not to purchase a saw as this is 1) expensive and 2) takes up much needed storage! Do you think I would get by if I just had home depot cut the wood to the specified sizes? If not, is there a compact, affordable and safe saw that you would recommend? Thank you so much!

Hey, Jessica! I doubt that you can get someone at Home Depot to make these cuts...unless you make good friends with one of the employees! Too many cuts for this and too much precision required. Plus, I've heard from Daniel at Manhattan Nest that the HDs in your city are pretty crappy with their cuts. A shop teacher from a local high school might be willing to make the cuts for you, for a small fee.

Any small miter saw will do most of what you need for Ana's plans and miter saws are the safest and easiest to use of all the saws out there, I think. Pawn shops and Craigslist are great resources for inexpensive ones -- you don't need a brand new one, though you might want to invest in a new blade. Or get yourself a nice handsaw and a miter box.

Good luck!

What are the dark L shape things on the corners? Is that purely decorative? Thank you for all the contributions everyone makes to this site. I'm so glad I came across it. You all have inspired me to start building furniture. This will be my first project. Looking forward to some daddy and me time. :)

This was the first thing I built from your blog. I simply could not find anything in the stores that fit my style, that and I hate buying anything when I could build it myself. I had a lot of fun with this and it was great being able to get back into woodworking after so many years of metal fabrication. Wood is so much warmer. Thank you for the plans. I'll post a picture soon.

Thanks for the plans!

I have been working on building this. The only problem is that I just could not find enough 2x6es that are completely straight. Any tips for dealing with bent wood?

Thanks for the plans!

I have been working on building this. The only problem is that I just could not find enough 2x6es that are completely straight. Any tips for dealing with bent wood?

I'm sure you don't need this anymore but when I ran into this problem, I found the below link and it worked. I think it took about 2/3 days and was not perfect but was very improved. I seem to run into this problem with 2x2's from Lowes. I went to the mom and pop lumber yard yesterday and just about passed out when I was told the total to make this table. I will not be going back there for anything except 2x2's because everyone they had was perfect.

Good luck!

How did everyone make the 60 degree cut? My miter saw does not go that far. I know I can "eye", cut and test until I get it to fit but was wondering if someone on here had a easier way to make the X's.

P.S. so far this is crazy easy to build. I hate to say that having to still cut the X's. NOTE: You WILL need 3 2x2's to make this.

I think what people are doing is placing the boards against the wood at the angles they'll go, scribing with a pencil and then angling the wood/blade to match the cut. I saw one blogger do it that way, anyhow. What I have done to get a cut that excels my miter saw's angles is to place my board at a 90 to the blade (needed two people to do this - couldn't support the board and make the cut - but I was also doing a 6' long board so you may be able to get away with this) and then do the math to get it to the proper angle. Ok, I make no sense. In this case, if you put the board at a 90 to the saw, you would set your miter saw at 30 degrees. Depending on your saw and the board you're cutting, this may not be safe. Another option would be to use a protractor to mark the 60 degree cut and cut it with a circular saw.

Can someone point me in the right direction where to get the decorative bolts and the corner brackets in black or any decorative type of color.

This darn X gets me every time. I tried it with the X bench . . . couldn't get it. Just kept it off . . . . It is getting me again. I modified the size to fit my living room. The whole darn thing is built . . . . minus the dastardly X. So my first question for any math minded people is how do I get the right measurement for my cuts. My second hang up is that my cool miter saw doesn't go to 60 degrees so I will have to do it by hand . . . . :S

But REALLY need help just figuring out how to measure the length . . . is it the measurement from corner to corner long end or short end . . . . or something entirely different. HELP!

Mine ended up not even being a 60 degree angle. I just got a level and put it corner to corner for the x part, got my measurements, and cut it. I think for the solid 2x2 that goes on the x part, my angle was like 26 degrees (both cuts are the same way). And the cut is corner to corner, long to long. After that, the others are simple. Hope this helps

can you give me a few more details? How did you find the angle on the solid 2x2? I have gone through quite a few 2x2s with the wrong measurements . . .:S You said you measured long end to long end . . .

AHHHHHH so frustrated with this part :(

Measure corner to corner. Then cut ur 2x2 at that length. Then cut both ends off at a 26 degree angle. Might have to trim some off but that should do it for the long piece. Let me know if it doesn't and maybe I can do some step by step pics and email them to u!

Had to have 3 2x2's instead of 2. So I would definitely suggest doing the same if you plan to do this project. But instructions were very clear and mine turned out awesome! Stain is drying tonight and will post pics tomm! Planning on building the end tables soon!!

First, I'm new to the site and I love it. I just got the kreg jig and I'm looking to familiarize myself with it tomorrow, however, is there a more detailed instructions on how to build this? I feel like it's hard to understand where to put the pilot holes, how to secure the 1x12's together or to the base.

Thanks again!


I'm going to build this table this weekend. That being said, I'd like to address a few of the comments left by others.
1) you do need 3-2x2's. At first I didn't think you did but then I realized you needed 4 of the long pieces. So, yes, you will need 3 of the 2x2's.

2)if your saw does not go to 60 degrees, use a shim. Set your saw to the 45 degree setting. Then, instead of putting your board directly against the back wall of the saw, you will need a shim or spacer in there. If you make a shim, it should be 3-3/4" long, 1" thick and taper down to zero. Or, you can take a 1" thick piece of lumber and put it against the wall of the saw. Then, clamp your piece you're cutting against that and the back wall. This will give you a 15 degree angle plus your saw is 45 degrees so this will equal a 60 degree cut. Make sure all of your lumber is on the same side as the blade.
EDIT: I still ran into an issue of my 10" Miter not cutting deep enough with this shim in there. This one might just be easier with a line drawn and a circular saw...your choice.

3) As for the strength of the bottom shelf, I'm not overly confident it will be super strong... I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet, but here are a few suggestions:
A) glue the seam together and use a couple of clamps to hold it tight over night. Pocket screws won't hurt here either, but the glue will actually hold pretty well as long as its clamped tight and the entire area was covered in glue very well.
B) buy a sheet of plywood instead of the 1x12's. all the edges are covered by your trim pieces, so you won't have to worry about hiding the edge. If looks are important, get a piece of plywood with a veneer top that you like.
EDIT: this is what I choose. It was much easier than the other alternatives.

C) buy 2 of the 8' 1x12's and stack them. This is probably the most complicated and probably over-kill, but it'll definitely be strong. Instead of 2- 1x12's cut 41" you will cut 4 of them. Then, take of of them, and cut it in half, long ways. You should then have 3- 1x12's 41" long and 2- 1x6's 41" long. Take your first 2 1x12's and place them together on a flat surface. Then, take your third 1x12 and stack it right in the middle, like a pyramid. Finally, place your 2-1x6's on the left and right. Every seam gets glued along with the bottom boards getting glued to the tops ones. Clamp it all together and let it set over night. This will take a lot of time, effort, glue and clamps, but essentially what your are creating is a 2x24" board, and it'll be solid!

Also, it may be worth looking into the usual methods of mounting a table top. Since it is 5 separate pieces and not that big, it may not be a big deal; but lumber tends to shrink and expand with humidity. So, normally, tops are not screwed down, but rather, floated on with brackets. Just something to possibly look into.

If you've read this far, I applaud you. I may shoot a video of my build, but I haven't decided yet... Time will tell! :). Good luck!

First of all, I sincerely love this site and the step by step instructions! My hubby is having a blast with me searching on your site! I know this is somewhat of a silly question, as we've done a few projects from this site, however our costs tend to be higher than what's projected. I assume it's because we are using higher quality wood, maybe? For this particular project, what type of wood do you recommend using? Thanks!

So this was my first time building a good quality piece of furniture, and I've never worked with wood filler before. I didn't realize how careful you needed to be with it - some (okay, a lot) dried outside of the holes. I did sand, but it didn't get all the way out before I oxidized; now I have big white blotches where the wood filler was. Is there any way to fix this? Should I sand it ALL out and restart- should I paint the piece a different color?

The oxidizing would've been perfect (and the table is great!) if I hadn't messed it up with the wood filler. I'm hoping I can somehow salvage???

Hi Ana and gang!
Slowly i have been building things using many of your plans. I stumbled across your coffee table plan and decides to make a few revisions to better suit my home and two wood chewing dogs. I really liked the X-design but wanted to prevent 2 over 70lb dogs from walking through the large opening so I made big "V"s instead of smaller "X"s.


I'm in the middle of building this, but have one quick question...what are the black bracket things on the corners of the tabletop? I have no idea what they're called or used for, but they look really good on the table. Thanks!

Hey Ana!

I'm wondering if you can share how you painted the decorative hardware. Did you just spray paint it? Any special prep to ensure it sticks/doesn't chip?

Thanks so much!

Hi there,

Do you happen to have any way of making plans for this coffee table in a square design? If not, do you have any suggestions? Love your designs and your ideas... thank you so much for sharing all of them!

Thanks so much!

P.s. I am super amazed that you have kids, a husband, a house to keep and you still get all of this done. When I'm working on building something, the cleanliness of my house quickly goes downhill. It seems I can either have one or the other, but yet I keep on coming back for more! I've come to the conclusion that you must have a cleaning lady. That is the way I rationalize my inability to keep up with both... shhh, don't ruin it for me. ;o)

Has anyone found a basket (or set of baskets) that fit well with the suggested measurements of this table?

Hubby built this table before I could find baskets, and now I can't find anything that doesn't seem to be "swallowed" by the width of the table.

Otherwise we LOVE it. It is sturdy and withstands my two young boys plopping down on it throughout the day. ;)

Hi Ana,

Building this Rustic X Coffee Table this weekend. My first furniture project ... Curious where you found the decorative corners for this piece? After looking through a lot of your different ideas and projects, I need to find a supplier for this type of material...




I had the same problem as you. I went to several hardware stores and I was unable to find them. What I ended up having to do was purchase some metallic ones and sand them with fine grit sand paper. After doing this I spray painted them with a flat black (non-glossy) color. It worked for me.

Several sections in the instructions say to use 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" PH screws.


Step 5 Instructions: 
Build your top with 1 1/4" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. Then attach to top of table through the side support apron pieces with 2 1/2" screws (you can use a few PH screws if you have them handy).


So my question is, which screw length do I use in these sections? 1 1/4" or 2 1/2"?


I am currently building this table for my wife for our 5 year anniversary. I noticed a difference between the table and the plans. For some reason the X cross on either end of the table do not match the picture Ana put up of the table. I wonder why she chose to do this?