Build a rustic X coffee table with free easy plans from Ana-White.com

Additional Photos

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

Handmade by: corey_smiley
Handmade by: FatBobK2
Handmade by: Bryant Grice

About Project

Author Notes:

Hey hey!

Happy Monday!

Thanks so much with your patience with the site this morning. We are growing (it's a good thing!) and are due for a server upgrade, but ALWAYS know keeping the site up and running fast is super important to me, and we are working very hard to improve the user experience of this site. What can I say? I APPRECIATE you each and every time you visit, and want to make sure each time you visit is pleasant for you. Thank you!

We have started working again at the Momplex! So this week, I will start posting about our progress up there! I also owe you some Alaska stuff too :) Cause you ARE going to come visit, right?

But today, I just couldn't wait to share a new plan with you!

Remember a bit back when <the super amazing> Hillary built this amazing Rustic X Console Table from 2x4s?

Yup, 2x4s! And some Hillary magic.

Well, after 22,000 of YOU <hey, thanks!> pinned the console table, of course we HAD to put together coffee table plans for you!

And man is she beautiful!

I ENCOURAGE you to stop over and visit Hillary and read about how she battled a wild fire to build this coffee table! Thanks Hillary!

PS - Hillary is also be sharing her finishing tutorial and <gasp!> an end table plan!!!! Can't wait!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

2 – 2x4 – 8 feet or stud length
2 – 2x2 – 8 feet
1 – 1x12 – 8 feet long
5 – 2x6 – stud length
1 ¼” and 2 ½” PH screws

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

compound miter saw

nailer

sander

countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List:

4 – 2x4 @ 16 ½” (legs)
4 – 2x2 @ 41” (side trim)
4 – 2x4 @ 22 ½” (end trim)
2 – 1x12 @ 41” (bottom shelf)
2 – 2x2 @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)
4 – 2x2 @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)
5 – 2x6 @ 52” (tabletop boards)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

First build the two side trim pieces.

Step 2

Then connect together. Hide top pocket holes on top, bottom pocket holes on bottom. NOTE: This plan is sized for 1x12 boards measuring 11 1/4" wide - measure your 1x12 boards, double that number, and cut your side trim to fit - see next step.

Step 3

Build your bottom shelf with 3/4" PHs/1 1/4" PH screws down center. Then drill 3/4" PHs around all outside edges and attach to the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Now attach cut and build the X braces. Attach in place. These are mostly decorative, so don't stress about getting them super screwed in place. Some good glue and screws will do the trick.

Step 5

Build your top with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. Then attach to top of table through the side support apron pieces with 2 1/2" screws (you can use a few PH screws if you have them handy).

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

May I Suggest a Finish?

Vintage Distressed Pink using Minwax Stain

Minwax Oil Based Stain on Birch

Minwax Water Based Stain - Gray

Not Much >>

What's going on up here in Alaska.

LOVE!

Ana everything you do with this site is perfect! It is a happy moment in my day when I check to see what cool new thing Ana has that I might someday build! Keep up the great work! And I LOVE LOVE LOVE this table, thanks again for another amazing plan!

Mindi@ http://mylove2create.blogspot.com/

posted by dmcarwin | on Mon, 2012-07-09 13:13

Another one?!

You just keep doing it! Every time I build a coffee table, you post plans for ANOTHER one I want to build! Love this. It's absolutely fantastic, and I just have to build it and find a friend who needs one ;)

posted by brookifer86 | on Mon, 2012-07-09 13:59

Love love! The providence

Love love! The providence bench was beautiful and I can't wait to get this started! Maybe in a great aqua or bright sky blue. Thanks for the site and all of the encouragement Ana! Blessings. Warmly Jay. ;o)

posted by zookeeperjay | on Mon, 2012-07-09 18:30

screeeeeech!!! (running to wood pile)

awesome awesome awesome. Can't wait to build it!!

posted by smacneil | on Wed, 2012-07-11 06:16

Great table !!! When you

Great table !!!
When you drill to attach the tablet top to the base, do you drill from above and fill the holes in the table to with wood filler ?

posted by I Rub | on Wed, 2012-07-11 19:37

Nope, I turned the table

Nope, I turned the table upside down and screwed in the top from underneath. Less work. :)

posted by Hillary (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-08-01 14:14

End Tables....

CAN'T WAIT for the end table plans!!!!! This plan is so so beautiful!!!

posted by MamaHowell09 (not verified) | on Thu, 2012-07-12 12:29

No plans yet, but here is how

No plans yet, but here is how I did the end table. Hopefully plans will follow, although it was super easy to modify the coffee table plans. :)

http://thefriendlyhome.blogspot.com/2012/08/oxidized-x-end-table.html

posted by Hillary (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-08-01 14:15

WHat wood?

Hi, I'm looking to get into making furniture. I was just wondering what sort of wood you use to get that rustic look, sort of weathered? Or how do you treat the wood or stain it.

Thanks, great site by the way,

Chris

posted by Pyney (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-07-13 19:14

Wood finishing

Hi Chris,
Check out the link at the top for Hillary, she as step by step instructions on the oxidizing process she uses to get that awesome grayish color. I can't wait to make this!!
Cheryl

posted by Cheryl Lowery (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-07-27 08:58

Chris, you should check out

Chris, you should check out the link at the top of the page for Hillary. She has step by step instuctions for the process she uses to make the wood that beautiful grayish color. Check it out!

posted by Cheryl Lowery (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-07-27 09:04

Supply list

I just finished building this table this morning! It is awesome but I still need to sand and finish it. I will submit a brag post later when finished (if my oxidizing finish turns out as good as Hillary's). The only thing that happened to me though was I needed 3-2x2's not just 2. I didn't see any way to cut the 2 that I had to be able to make the side aprons and the x braces. Maybe it was just me and my inexperience though. Either way, I'm very happy with my new table! Thanks Ana and Hillary!

posted by Meagan84 | on Thu, 2012-08-09 17:10

I can't wait to see your

I can't wait to see your photos! Let us know how the oxidizing went. Crossing my fingers for you. I feel personally responsible. ;)

posted by Hillary (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-08-15 19:02

Hi Hillary. I submitted a

Hi Hillary. I submitted a brag post. I don't know why it's not showing up here, but it is on Ana's homepage. I'm really happy with the results, but if I could go back I would have sealed it with poly instead of wax. While I love the feel and subtle sheen of the wax, it is not holding up well against the kids. It's only been a few days and it is scratched from my little ponies and matchbox cars. It won't be long before I haul it back out to the garage and reseal it. :( we live and learn though, right?!

posted by Meagan (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-08-17 13:38

Bummer! The good news is that

Bummer! The good news is that it is really easy to take wax off. All you need is a rag and some vinegar -- that should take it off. I'll go find your brag post!

posted by Hillary (not verified) | on Tue, 2012-08-28 00:35

Thank You!

Thank you for the tip! I was wondering how I was going to get the wax off. That helps a lot!

posted by Meagan84 | on Thu, 2012-08-30 18:53

Question about pocket hole placement

Hi. I am in the process of building this table. I have a question about the placement of the pocket holes for joining the top pieces. Lets call the top boards piece A,B,C,D and E. When joining A to B then B to C and so forth, do you recommend drilling all the pocket holes in board A with the screws going into board B or would it be better to alternate, drilling every other hole in A, with screws going into B, and the alternating holes would be drilled into B with screws going into A.
I hope this question makes sense. It sounds complicated but I have no idea how to word it more simply.

Thank you so much Ana and Hillary for the amazing plans and beautiful example. I am so excited to get this built. It will be a house warming gift for my best friend's son.

posted by Autum (not verified) | on Thu, 2012-09-06 16:01

Hi, Autum. I just go one way.

Hi, Autum. I just go one way. So drill into one edge of each board except the last one, and then join A to B, B to C, C to D, etc. The joints are really strong, especially with glue between the boards. No need to complicate it. :)

posted by Hillary (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-09-23 13:36

number in parentheses

I was just wondering what the number in parentheses after kreg jig means.

posted by georgeandjacksmom | on Thu, 2012-09-06 17:37

Can you be more specific? I

Can you be more specific? I don't see it.

posted by Hillary (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-09-23 13:39

My husband and i are getting

My husband and i are getting ready to make this - can't wait!!!! Thank you for all your plans - and even more for making them free!!! Its wonderful to be able to afford beautiful pieces!

posted by Natalie Spear (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-09-23 16:19

Material List Revision - 2x2's

If you are building this, be sure to purchase three (3) 2x2's by 8-ft long as the material list above is not sufficient. Also, if you are wanting to put baskets on the bottom shelf, be sure to measure the height of the baskets prior to cutting the legs - you may also want to modify the height of the legs or space between the bottom shelf and top support to allow enough space.

posted by WTG (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-09-30 18:56

My wife and I really want to

My wife and I really want to build this table. However, I am confused about something... The tools list says that you'll need a countersink drill bit, but nowhere in the building instructions does it say anything about countersinking screws. According to the plans, all of the wood is joined with pocket holes and screws using the Kreg Jig.

Do I need a countersink drill bit?

posted by KevinPelo (not verified) | on Sat, 2012-10-27 12:55

Wood?

Where does everyone buy their 2x4's? Do you just use the dimensional lumber from orange or blue? It's usually pretty rough and dinged up. Can you buy better quality 2x4's somewhere?

posted by orangesugar | on Mon, 2012-11-26 18:51

Help!!

how is the bottom shelf held up????

posted by billy (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-11-30 22:48

I used the pocket holes to

I used the pocket holes to secure the bottom shelf.

posted by Chris Hluchyj (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-12-02 18:41

Hardware

Where was the hardware bought from?

posted by Chris Hluchyj (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-12-02 18:42

I like the design, made one

I like the design, made one for myself.
http://www.midsouthmakers.org/2012/12/diy-rustic-x-c…eekend-project/

This is what I purchased to cut down on waste.

SHOPPING LIST:
3 – 2x4 – 8 feet or stud length ripped excess boards down to 2x2's on the table saw.
1 – 1x12 – 8 feet long
2 – 2x6 – 10 feet
1 - 2x6 - 8 feet
1 ¼” and 2 ½” PH screws

posted by Ben E. (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-12-05 15:29

X-design

I was looking at the diagram, and the X is attached at the top and bottom, but when it was made it was attached to the sides. Shouldn't the cut list be different if it is attached to the sides? Or is this just Hillary's version? Looks good either way, just curious.

posted by jwarner (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-12-14 13:19

posted by jwarner (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-12-14 13:20

I have a silly question: is

I have a silly question: is the X strictly necessary? I'd prefer to have both ends open. Would I need to reinforce it some other way?

posted by Chad (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-12-16 21:45

Few Questions...

Please excuse the simple nature of my questions. I have never done a woodworking project and hope to make this my first.

1) How many PH's per board to attach each of the top boards and shelf boards to one another?

2) When you attach the bottom shelf I assume you flip it over and attach them from the bottom with PHs. What holds the board in place while you are trying to screw it upside down. Seems ackward the way I am visualizing it, but I'm sure there is a way that you experience people know of.

Thanks so much!

posted by Carina Vause (not verified) | on Mon, 2013-01-14 17:25

1) I usually go every 8-10

1) I usually go every 8-10 inches.
2) I think I turned it on its side when I did this, and used a clamp to hold it all together.

posted by Hillary @ The Friendly Home (not verified) | on Mon, 2013-01-14 20:36

Thank you Hillary

posted by Carina Vause (not verified) | on Tue, 2013-01-15 00:53

Do I need a compound miter saw?

Hi Ana! I'm obsessed with your site and am now convinced (and confident!) to build my own coffee table. I live in a small one bedroom in manhattan. I was hoping not to purchase a saw as this is 1) expensive and 2) takes up much needed storage! Do you think I would get by if I just had home depot cut the wood to the specified sizes? If not, is there a compact, affordable and safe saw that you would recommend? Thank you so much!

posted by JessicaB (not verified) | on Tue, 2013-01-15 00:11

Hey, Jessica! I doubt that

Hey, Jessica! I doubt that you can get someone at Home Depot to make these cuts...unless you make good friends with one of the employees! Too many cuts for this and too much precision required. Plus, I've heard from Daniel at Manhattan Nest that the HDs in your city are pretty crappy with their cuts. A shop teacher from a local high school might be willing to make the cuts for you, for a small fee.

Any small miter saw will do most of what you need for Ana's plans and miter saws are the safest and easiest to use of all the saws out there, I think. Pawn shops and Craigslist are great resources for inexpensive ones -- you don't need a brand new one, though you might want to invest in a new blade. Or get yourself a nice handsaw and a miter box.

Good luck!

posted by Hillary @ The Friendly Home (not verified) | on Tue, 2013-01-15 00:57

Thanks Hillary!

That is some really great advice. I will also try some of the smaller lumber shops, they might be a bit more friendly!

posted by Jessicab (not verified) | on Tue, 2013-01-15 11:58

Dark L shape on corners

What are the dark L shape things on the corners? Is that purely decorative? Thank you for all the contributions everyone makes to this site. I'm so glad I came across it. You all have inspired me to start building furniture. This will be my first project. Looking forward to some daddy and me time. :)

posted by Yanira (not verified) | on Sat, 2013-01-19 00:17

My first

This was the first thing I built from your blog. I simply could not find anything in the stores that fit my style, that and I hate buying anything when I could build it myself. I had a lot of fun with this and it was great being able to get back into woodworking after so many years of metal fabrication. Wood is so much warmer. Thank you for the plans. I'll post a picture soon.

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posted by pongkaja | on Sat, 2013-02-09 10:38

We have started working again

We have started working again at the Momplex! So this week, I will start posting about our progress up there! I also owe you some Alaska stuff too :) Cause you ARE going to come visit, right? top web hosting

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posted by passionlab | on Tue, 2013-04-02 08:15

wood not straight

Thanks for the plans!

I have been working on building this. The only problem is that I just could not find enough 2x6es that are completely straight. Any tips for dealing with bent wood?

posted by cnads | on Sat, 2013-04-13 12:48

How to Repair Warped Wood

I'm sure you don't need this anymore but when I ran into this problem, I found the below link and it worked. I think it took about 2/3 days and was not perfect but was very improved. I seem to run into this problem with 2x2's from Lowes. I went to the mom and pop lumber yard yesterday and just about passed out when I was told the total to make this table. I will not be going back there for anything except 2x2's because everyone they had was perfect.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2078078_repair-warped-wood.html

posted by jbayer80 | on Wed, 2013-04-24 06:59

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posted by allennaismith6 | on Sun, 2013-04-14 05:30

60 degree cut!

How did everyone make the 60 degree cut? My miter saw does not go that far. I know I can "eye", cut and test until I get it to fit but was wondering if someone on here had a easier way to make the X's.

P.S. so far this is crazy easy to build. I hate to say that having to still cut the X's. NOTE: You WILL need 3 2x2's to make this.

posted by jbayer80 | on Wed, 2013-04-24 06:54

60 degree cut

I think what people are doing is placing the boards against the wood at the angles they'll go, scribing with a pencil and then angling the wood/blade to match the cut. I saw one blogger do it that way, anyhow. What I have done to get a cut that excels my miter saw's angles is to place my board at a 90 to the blade (needed two people to do this - couldn't support the board and make the cut - but I was also doing a 6' long board so you may be able to get away with this) and then do the math to get it to the proper angle. Ok, I make no sense. In this case, if you put the board at a 90 to the saw, you would set your miter saw at 30 degrees. Depending on your saw and the board you're cutting, this may not be safe. Another option would be to use a protractor to mark the 60 degree cut and cut it with a circular saw.

Gina - Lady Goats
DIY Blogger (when I'm not procrastinating)
http://www.ladygoats.com

posted by Lady Goats | on Wed, 2013-04-24 11:25

Can someone point me in the right direction where to get the decorative bolts and the corner brackets in black or any decorative type of color.

posted by mainman38 | on Tue, 2013-04-30 00:04

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Getting Started

Plan Catalog

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Rustic X Coffee Table

Additional Photos

Handmade from this plan >>

About Project

Dimensions

Materials and Tools

Cut List

General Instructions

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Finishing Instructions

May I Suggest a Finish?

Coffee Table, living room, Intermediate, farmhouse

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