Free plans to build a upholstered settee or dining room banquette bench
2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
2 – sheets 1/8” plywood or other backing material (firm cardboard could work for back but probably not seat or upholstery webbing)
12 – 4” ¼” diameter bolts with nuts and washers
2 ½” PH screws
4 – 5 yards upholstery batting
4-5 yards (depending on fabric direction/print and width maybe even more) fabric
THIS LIST DOES NOT INCLUDE PILLOW SUPPLIES
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
2 – 2x4 @ 34 3/8” (top end cut at 5 degrees off square, shortest point measurement)
4 – 2x2 @ 56” (back supports)
1 – 2x4 @ 56” (back supports)
1 – 1x2 @ 56” (back support cleat)
4 – 2x6 @ 27” (seat supports/side aprons)
1 – 2x4 @ 59” (back)
1 – 2x6 @ 56” (front)
1 – 1/8” plywood @ 59” x 22” (back covering if not using webbing)
1 – 1/8” plywood @ 59 x 30” ((seat covering if not using webbing)
*** Jenny actually modified this bench so the seat is 24" deep to accommodate standard sized foam. To make this modification, you will need to cut seat supports/side aprons to 21" length instead of 27".
First, cut your legs for the back. Jenny actually made her legs longer for a taller seat - you can see how she did that here.
Once your legs are cut, you can build the back.
Then you'll want to add some cleats just to give you something to finish the back off with when you go to add plywood if you are using plywood.
Again, something to nail plywood on to and finish off the bottom edge of your upholstery.
In this plan, I call for 1/8" thick hardboard - but all you really need is something firm so there's no hard wood boards in the back when you lean against it. You could also do webbing. The back side of the back won't necessarily need the hardboard because no one will be resting against it (check out the back side of your couch - you'll be able to feel the frame boards through the back fabric).
Set the back aside, let's work on the seat framing.
Jenny really liked the seat angled back for comfort, so we opted to cut the 2x6 seat supports down a bit to get this angle. Mark and cut with a circular saw.
Now build your frame as shown above. Note that we did change things up and integrate the front legs into the frame for better support. Jenny also recommends adding corner supports to keep the frame square and stronger.
Next, it's time to make sure the frame fits with the back. Also, here you can drill bolt holes to later attach the two upholstered sections together. Fit the back and seat together with bolts and test out to make sure everything fits and is solid. Then take the two pieces apart to upholster individually.
NOTE that you can permanently attach the seat to back here, but you will most likely have to do a lot more sewing - that's why bolts are recommended.
Cover the back in foam and batting, followed by fabric slipcovered and stapled on the bottom. For more details from Jenny on how she upholstered her bench, you can go here.
Next, upholster the seat. You can do 1/8" hardboard for a firmer seat as shown here, or you can add webbing. You can also opt to place the foam cushion on top, followed by batting and fabric, or you can add batting and fabric to the seat, and then sew a cushion for on top.
Once the two pieces are upholstered, attach with bolts and tighten underneath.
And then add any pillows to the seat or back!