King Size Fancy Farmhouse Bed

Free plans to build a fancy farmhouse bed in king size from Inspired by Pottery Barn Somerset bed.


Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!


Author Notes: 

On our facebook page, you requested plans for a king size Fancy Farmhouse Bed (queen plans here).  Pretty happy to deliver on that request today!

The Hall Way has already built the King version by adjust the plans themselves, and look how beautiful this bed is!!!!

And if turquoise is more your thing, here's a king made by Celestmonks

What color will you paint yours?

Shopping List: 

26+ feet of 1x6 boards or tongue and groove (recommended)
4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
9 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 3 feet long

Recommend 1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
Recommend 1 1/4" and 2" finish nails
Recommend 4 1/2" diameter bolts, with nuts and washers, 3 1/2" or longer (for attaching headboard to bed base)

1 – 8′ Stick of Chair Rail moulding (use this stick on the bottom tier of the headboard)
4 – 8′ Sticks of Base Cap moulding (use this type of moulding to trim panel and for the top tier on the headboard)

measuring tape
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

King Size designed for 76x80 Mattress
Cut List: 

13 - 1x6 (boards or tongue and groove) @ 24" (can be a tad shorter to get everything on a single 8' long board)
2 - 1x3 @ 71 1/2" (inner frame top)
2 - 1x3 @ 19" CUT TO FIT (inner frame sides)
2 - 2x4 @ 48" (legs)
1 - 2x6 @ 71 1/2"
1 - 2x6 @ 78 1/2"
1 - 1x3 @ 80 1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 80"
6 - 2x4 @ 73"
2 - 1x8 @ 80"
1 - 1x8 @ 77 1/2"
2 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 14 1/2"
4 - 2x4 @ 13 1/2"

Step 1: 

Start by putting the center panel together. I recommend 1x6 tongue and groove - then you can just glue and fit together. You may need to trim off with a circular saw the ends to get the exact measurements as shown below. If your panel is a little smaller, that's okay - we can work with that.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Build the frame first, then attach with nails and glue to the panel. If your center panel is a little smaller, split the difference, centering the panel in the middle of the frame.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach legs.

Note that if your panel boards are less than 3/4" thick, you may need to use a shorter pocket hole or screw. You can also drill the pocket holes in the legs into the panel if that is easier for you.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now attach the base.

Step 5 Instructions: 

And the header.

Step 6 Instructions: 

And finally, attach top with glue and nails or screws.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Measure and cut the moulding to fit as shown in this diagram. Note that the center panel is framed with the base cap moulding. Also at the underside of the 1x3 is base cap moulding. The chair rail moulidng is placed at the tops of the legs. Nail on and glue. Set headboard aside.

Step 8 Instructions: 

We are going to build a really sturdy base for the bed. First, frame up the platform with 2x4s.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Leave 1" to the top and attach side rails with nails and glue.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Then attach bottom footboard rail.

Step 11: 

Attach side legs as shown here, flush to end.

Step 12: 

And then attach the end leg 1x4 as shown here. Keep outside edge as flush as possible.

Step 13: 

Fit base to headboard and clamp in place. Drill holes and attach with bolts. Use washer and nuts.

Step 14: 

You'll need additional support for a king. I recommend at minimum 4 center legs to bear the weight of the bed as shown. For heavier loads, you can add more legs.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. 
 It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 


Hello, I have been looking for a bed frame for my Cal King bed. They are all so expensive for really nice ones so I thought that I could make one. In my research for one I found your Farm House Style and fell in love with it. However, you don't have a plan for my size bed. How would I convert your plan to fit my bed? Thank you for all that you do, you are amazing!!

I love this bed!! Can you explain to me how I can make this using the metal bed rails and box springs that I already own?? I'm also confused as to how the footboard legs are constructed and attached. Please let me know! Thanks for the awesome plan!

nobody has noticed that the shopping list is 1 1x8 short of materials needed to build this bed and slats have to be added or the mattress sinks just so you know for shopping trips

While I would like to have bolts holding the headboard to the frame, there is very little room for a bolt between the inside edge of the headboard leg and the inside of the frame. Add to that, there are screws already there, holding the frame together. I think the only option may be to use screws to hold the headboard to the frame (as instructed in the queen-size instructions) or to make the legs wider, to accommodate bolts. Has anyone actually built it according to these plans?

Edited to add: I was able to use ONE bolt on each side, by carefully placing the bolt between the screws that I used to hold the frame together.

We had the same problem with little room for the bolts. What we ended up doing was cutting to fit, and attaching with pocket hole joints, another 2x4 board between the headboard legs (horizontally), at the same height as the back of the frame. We lined the headboard up with the frame, clamped it, and drilled holes for receive 4.5 inch bolts and nuts with washers of course. We have about 10 of these bolts holding it together, which I believe should be enough.

Finished the bed last week, and thought since our stair well was larger than the average home, and with our high ceilings, we could move the frame upstairs with some help with my brother. We were wrong (however just a couple of inches from making it work), and ended up taking the frame apart, and screwing it all back together upstairs. We love the bed, the design is simple and I have received many compliments. We did not paint the bed, and decided to stain it, so we selected to use solid oak for the entire headboard, and for the 1x8 along the frame and front legs. They do not stock 2x4 in oak, so we had to glue/clamp some 1x4 together for the frame legs, this worked out better than I had hoped. We spent less than $500 all together for materials, but it was worth it, because now we have a very nice solid oak king size bed. (Headboard weighs roughly 150+ pounds). Thanks!

Hi there - looking forward to getting started on this today. Can anyone tell me - does this work with a box spring as well as mattress or do I need to adjust the plans to fit my box spring as well? Or do I need to change the whole base of it to be able to include the box spring? Was thinking I could add some height to the headboard legs to make it taller since my mattress + Box spring = 24" high? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!