Rustic Double X Bench

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Rustic Double X Bench

Double X Bench free plans from Ana-White.com

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

Author Notes: 

My sister and her family are really enjoying their new farmhouse table, plans here.


To match the farmhouse table and the donated x chairs, I knew we needed to make an X bench to match for extra seating on one side.  Kids love benches too!

I love these rustic x benches (plans here) but they were just a little short for the table.  

So .....

I made a new plan for a double x bench!  Sorry for the crummy photos!

It really turned out well!  Very sturdy and attractive, but still super cheap and pretty easy to make!

I actually not only went double the length, but added another 1x6 to the top to increase the width.  Bad idea, the bench now is a little on the wide side, so in the plans, I went back to the 2 1x6s for the planked top.  (If you want to go three wide, just add 5 1/2" to all width board cuts).

Enjoy the plans following!

XO 

Ana

Shopping List: 

1 - 2x2 12 feet long
3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long

2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
jigsaw
compound miter saw
table saw
sander
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above
Cut List: 

4 - 2x2 @ 17 1/8" long - Outside Legs (both ends cut at 5 degrees double bevel off square, ends ARE parallel to each other)
2 - 2x2 @ 17 1/8" long - Inside Legs (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel to each other)
3 - 1x3 @ 7 1/2" long - End Aprons (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, longest point measurement, ends NOT parallel)
3 - 1x3 @ 9 3/4" long - Stretchers (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, longest point measurement, ends NOT parallel)
4 - 1x3 @ 23 1/2" long - Side Aprons (ONE end cut at 5 degrees off square, longest point measurement)
1x2 cross supports cut to fit
2 - 1x6 @ 54" long - Tops

Step 1: 

Since the 5 degree double bevels are so slight, I'd recommend marking each of your double bevel outside legs like this before assembly:

And then you can move on to attaching legs to aprons and stretchers.

TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for later attaching top in aprons.

Step 2 Instructions: 

The center legs are only single bevels, but same construction as the outside legs.

TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for later attaching top in aprons.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Then attach the side aprons - note that the straight end of each apron is attached to the center legs. When you drill your pocket holes, note this, so your pocket holes can be hidden on the inside (it does matter).

TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for later attaching top in aprons.

Step 4 Instructions: 

The easiest way to do the cross supports is to mark with a square or straight edge and cut with a circular saw or jigsaw.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Attach offset so you can attach with a countersunk screw from outside or finish nail and glue.

Step 6 Instructions: 

And then attach remaining set of cross supports, again offset so you can attach on ends.

Step 7 Instructions: 

I recommend building top first with a row of 3/4" pocket holes down center and attaching the 1x6s together with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Then attach through predrilled holes in aprons with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Comments

In your original post for the husky farmhouse table you mentioned following up with a blog on the finish for the legs. I really want to duplicate this look and can't find that post. Can you please point me in the right direction?

In your original post for the husky farmhouse table you mentioned following up with a blog on the finish for the legs. I really want to duplicate this look and can't find that post. Can you please point me in the right direction?