Husky Farmhouse Table

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Husky Farmhouse Table

Free plans to DIY a farmhouse table with store bought table legs. Plans from Ana-White.com

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Hello DIY Friends!  

I hope you had a wonderful weekend!  Can you believe it is still snowing up here in Alaska?  I can't either, and I tell you what, I am ready to be working outdoors on projects.  If you get a second, point your fans north and blow some of your hot weather toward us, will you?

We have been busy getting the odds and ends complete on the downstairs of the Momplex (I'll be posting an update for you later this week) and then finishing up the drywall downstairs.  I've been told to order flooring, doors and moulding - how crazy is that?  I know we aren't getting Mom moved in by this weekend (sorry Mom!), but we are feeling so great about how things are moving along (haha I'm not trying to be punny!).

You know we've been working double time now, right?  That's right, we took on another job.  Darn little nieces are just too cute!

Well, of course, I'm going to be building (or helping build - my sister wants to build her own furniture too!) furniture for my nieces as well.  And I've already been working on projects in my spare time.

I was just thinking about something as I was putting together these photos.  I often get magazines asking for "amazing before and after photos" to showcase my work, and I kinda give them a funny look and say, "but my before photos are a pile of 2x4s."  

When we build furniture, it's not always about dramatic room transformations.  It's not always about magazine-worthy after photos.

It's about this:

Our befores-and-afters are about making our lives better.  Having a place to eat dinner.  Getting mattresses off floors, corralling toys into toyboxes, books into shelves ....

But I won't tell you a lie ... making something pretty doesn't hurt either :)

My sister and I put this table together surprisingly quick - in just a few hours.  She wanted a "planked top" look made of 2x6s, so that took a little longer to get the top really flat and level (no rocking plates on this tabletop!).  We love you belt sander.  You could be smarter than us and use tongue and groove for the top.  But I promise you, you won't get an arm workout like we did.

I gave the legs an authentic old world finish and will be sharing that tutorial with you next week - it's actually a pretty easy finish to achieve!

And of course, we got you covered with the free Farmhouse Table plans following!

Also giving a shout-out to the folks at Osborne Wood for providing the legs for this table.  The legs are just massive, and retail for about $50 a leg for the legs shown.  You will be shocked at how giant these legs are!  Thank you Osborne Wood!

Shopping List: 

4 - Osborne Wood Husky Dining Table Legs

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

7 - 2x6 @ 72" long (you may consider using 2x6 tongue and groove for a easier finishing option but as shown in photos, I used 2x6s kreg jigged together and then sanded flat on top with a belt sander)

2 1/2" pocket hole screws

2" finish nails

wood glue

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above
Cut List: 

2 - 2x4 @ 58" (side aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 26" (end aprons)
2 - 1x2 @ 26" (end apron trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 58" (side apron trim)
7 - 2x6 @ 72" (tabletop boards)

Step 1: 

First things first, drill all the pocket holes in the aprons. You'll need two per apron end, and then ever 8" or so, a 1 1/2" pocket hole facing upward for attaching the tabletop later on.

When you go to attach the legs to the aprons, make sure you have the pocket holes pointing upward - I make this mistake all the time - doh! - but you are probably way smarter than me!

Step 2 Instructions: 

This is really just to add that decorative touch to the underside.

Another option for those of you with a table saw is to use 2x6s for the aprons and then cut a small groove with the tablesaw at the base of the aprons to give the look of multiple boards.

NOTE: You can also add corner cross supports, but we found the table really didn't need it. It's up to you!

Step 3 Instructions: 

Now build the top. If I can say anything about this top it's this: GET STRAIGHT BOARDS. Mine were a little crooked and so I ended up having to use long bar clamps to pull everything together tight as I attached pocket holes.

Clamp, clamp and clamp!

If your ends end up a little off, no bigge there, just run a circular saw down the ends to clean them up.

I think part of this table's charm is the planked top, but to make it more functional, we belt sanded the top flat, and then silicone any gaps to prevent food from sticking in cracks.

Not trying to scare you - this wasn't hard - it's just my sister's got kids between 6 months and 9, and we are preparing this table for real life use and abuse.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now flip the tabletop over so all the pocket holes are facing up and place the base on it. Then just start attaching through those predrilled pocket holes into the tabletop.

Flip it over (it's gonna be heavy!) and the building part is done!

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
main_category: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

Now I have to decide whether I want to do the original type farmhouse table, or go with something more like this.

The before and after thing is totally true! I have so much empty space in my house, and I'm so anxious to fill that space with life!

"I often get magazines asking for "amazing before and after photos" to showcase my work, and I kinda give them a funny look and say, "but my before photos are a pile of 2x4s.""

I'd send them some ... a messy pile of lumber and a table or a loft bed or whatever.

They might actually print it.

This is tough! Every time you post a new table, I want it! I just finished belt sanding my tabletop (made with 2 2x12s and 2 2x10s and 2x8s for the breadboard ends), with the intention of make the table legs from The Handbuilt Home. But I'm realizing maybe I'm not coordinated enough to get my faux 4x4 legs straight. I started them over a month ago (then got busy with basement finishing), and two halves are sitting around looking wonky. This looks a million times easier and I think the really chippy finish on the legs is selling me. Wonder how a bench with straight legs will look with a turned leg table...? Those chairs look great with them? Where did she get them? Would love to see a close up of your finished top! :) hint hint.

Thank you for the wonderful plan! I'm in the process of building a plank-top table right now with some salvaged 100-year barn wood. I've attached the planks with pocket holes and wood glue, and the gaps are pretty minimal. However...there are still gaps and little nicks from a lot of wear and tear.

I was thinking to just fill everything with a few coats of polyurethane. Someone said I could put some painter's tape on the bottom of the table under the gaps and then pour the poly into the holes.

But you mentioned "silicone the gaps." What does this mean exactly, and what product would you recommend?

Love your site and all the different projects. My Honey-do list just multiplied!

I was just curious what type of wood you used for the top of this table? I really like the 'beefier' look of the 2inch but can't find any good 2inch lumber at any of my local stores. Everything they have poplar, oak, pine, etc is 1inch. The only thing I can find anywhere that is 2 inch is the framing douglas fir.
the only other thing I can think of is to use the 1 inch and trim it with 2 inch but still not going to be as bulky/strong.
thanks!
P.S. I also loved the silicone tip!!!!

Love, Love, Love this table! Just wondering where you got your chairs from? And then did you just stain them the same as the table top? Thanks!

Love, Love, Love this table! Just wondering where you got your chairs from? And then did you just stain them the same as the table top? Thanks!

I made this table and Kreg jigged the planks together for the table top. I got boards that were as straight as possible (I thought). Now one corner of the top is pulling up so much that the leg is about 2 inches off the ground! Could I run a plank crossways underneath and countersink screws along it to pull it down so it's level? Other ideas??

Hi, I have a similar question to the one posed earlier by skseibel -- what kind of lumber are people using to build the tabletop?

The 2in planks are hard to find in my area as well, though I'm willing to travel further afield to get good lumber if I have to. Lowes and Home Depot didn't really have what I was looking for, and I've heard some horror stories about the common #2 grade pine warping (despite being kiln dried). So, what's the solution? What kind of lumber are people using? Where did you get your lumber? Has anyone made this table with sucess using just common grade wood? Thanks!

I bought a table at a junk shop 13 years ago exactly like yours except the top was a mess, the legs were loose, and it was 10 feet long. I thought it might have been used as a display table in a department store since the junk shop had lots of items from store displays. I hired a guy to fix the legs and he took FOREVER and he really messed up my top. I used it for 12 years in my dining room and then had my son sand it down completely. I used Sickens sealer and it now is used on my covered porch.

Love the table!! Like others, I was wondering the wood typed used for the table. Also, how did your sisters table hold up with her kids? THANKS!

Airport food can be pricey and not all flights provide snacks while in flight. Its handy to keep a couple of sticks of jerky, a candy bar, or maybe a pack of peanuts in your pocket or purse so that you can get that quick energy boost you need without having to pay an arm and a leg or take the time to buy food at a shop.

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I followed the instructions and siliconed the cracks. I'm so sad, it looked great before. Then I put polycrylic over it. It didn't stick to it right and the crappy GE silicone (check reviews) didn't dry. It also wasn't clear like it said it would be. What a mess! I'm now picking/smooshing/ rolling it out and re sanding. OMG! Was I supposed to silicone after the poly??

Don't use GE silicone!!

LOVE LOVE this table!!! I have been looking for a table like this for a while without success. What type of wood is used for the top? Also, do you have the dimensions to change this table from seating 6 to 8? Can't wait to make this table!!!

Hello, I'm having a hard time finding the 2x4 and 2x6 in the nicer types of lumber. I've been only finding the 1x4 and 1x6. Is it ok to use the 1" rather than the 2"? Also, what type of wood do you recommend using?

Absolutely love this whole dining area and trying to replicate. Where did you get the chairs? I found similar ones on Wayfair.com but they don't look quite the same. Thanks!

I LOVE this table! I already found perfect legs and i've been dying to make this. I was wondering if there was a way to make the table top and frame as a whole detachable from the legs. I ask because we plan on moving and i just feel like it is a really big piece to move, and would be much easier if I were able to seperate the top from the legs. Thank you!

I. Am. In. Love. We are making this table with a black walnut top, and I had a question about making it longer. We need to seat 8 and had a local mill create a black walnut top for us that is 84" long. We chose less-chunky legs from Osborne because our chairs have a mission leg (http://www.osbornewood.com/1119.cfm), but my question is: Because our legs are not as low and as thick as the 29"x5" chunky leg, would we need an additional 5th leg in the middle? Osborne suggests a fifth leg for anything longer than 6' lengths, but the lower center of gravity and 5" base for each of the husky legs would be more than enough for an additional foot in length. I suppose I am already convinced I need an additional leg, but I wanted to hear from someone else. Thoughts?

Cheralee
Thestoverhomestead.com

Is it weird that Norm Abrams is my celebrity crush?

Oops

Cheralee
Thestoverhomestead.com

Is it weird that Norm Abrams is my celebrity crush?

iPad+new member= multiple posts

Cheralee
Thestoverhomestead.com

Is it weird that Norm Abrams is my celebrity crush?

We are a military family so we move every few years. Is there a way to make the legs detachable? Also, what wood type do you suggest to use for the legs and what do you not suggest. We don't want to spend too much $$ but want it sturdy still. Thanks!

Hello! Could you please explain the silicone process to fill in the gaps between boards? What brand did you use? We are very worried about spaces trapping crumbs. Thanks!