Community Brag Posts

Cutest Baby Doll High Chair

Submitted by tracysmith on Sun, 03/27/2011 - 15:29

My neighbors grand-daughter is about to turn 3 and I thought this would make a great present for her.. plus, when she saw it online while visiting me (I was checking the website as usual), she said "Oh, I NEED one of those!".  I laughed and then that night went out and checked my scrap pile to see if I had everything I needed to build it.

I only needed one 8' piece of 1x2 to complete it.. .everything else I had, so great!
Estimated Cost
About $10 with paint.
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
I have yet to paint this little project, but it will be painted in a gloss lavender purple so it's easy to clean.
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Doll house for 18" Dolls

Both my princesses absolutely LOVE their dollhouse. It was my first diy project and it's wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be. 

Estimated Cost
I spent roughly $46 on the wood. We had a bunch of extra paint lying around the house and left over carpet pieces we decided to use.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

DIY Closet Tower

My daughter's room needed more storage and the closet was the perfect place to add some! Visit the blog link for more pictures.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Behr Primer and Paint in one, semi-gloss, matched to a piece of baseboard from my home.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

x-table and benches

Submitted by kcaldes on Tue, 06/28/2011 - 11:32

Good plans and easy construction. Thanks!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
None yet.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

yogijenn

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 08:54

Planning to build a set like this for my new patio. The angles on the bench legs don't appear to be 45s. Could you share a few detail about them? Thanks!

Small raised planter stand

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/10/2022 - 17:04

Plan to use as a cooler :) adjusted dimensions to fit a bigger planter box and added some decorative details. It came out great!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Charlie's Big Kid Bed

We needed to transition our son out of his crib-turned-toddler-bed to free up the crib for the next spawn, arriving in November. We wanted something we could sit or lie on with him for the reading of bedtime stories, which ruled out most toddler beds and the inexpensive twin size beds. The choice was clear between spending $1000 on some out-of-the-box bed from a furniture store, using a mattress-and-springs-on-metal-frame from the mattress store (which lacks any sort of organized storage potential) or building our own awesome storage-friendly bed that will hopefully last until the kiddo graduates high school and gets his own place.  I love this plan because of the ample storage it provides between the under-the-bed cubbies, the cubbies on the "walled-in" side of the bed that can be used for off-season clothes and less-frequently-used items, even the space between the cubbies only accessible by sliding the mattress off and popping out the slats.  Also, my child is doomed to need glasses at some point in his life, so the headboard with space to stow the glasses, an alarm clock, a glass of water, a couple books ... this plan was perfect for what we needed and what we wanted. And custom-made by dad? Painted Elmo-red (the current obsession) by 7-months-pregnant mom? What could be better?  We are thrilled by the bed and are already planning the expansion we'll do (create a bunk? Just build a matching bed?) in a few years when the new little brother has outgrown the crib.  

We opted to skip pretty much all the hardware on this bed and, with the help of a few nails inserted via nail gun, put the bed together with copious amounts of wood glue and clamps. This bed is NEVER wiggling apart, no matter how much the kid jumps on it.  The exception is the binding of the headboard and footboard to the base itself -- this is done with cleverly placed screws so that the bed can be disassembled if it ever needs to be moved.  The project would've been a weekend project from shopping through painting except that we had to wait hours for glue to dry in between steps. As a result, it monopolized our garage for about a week.  

Estimated Cost
We had to buy quite a few tools, so our Home Depot trip for this project was pretty pricy! I believe we spent about $200 on lumber. We bought two quarts of BIN shellac primer but used brushes/rollers we had on hand and a half gallon of Elmo-red paint left from another project.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Shellac primer + satin-finish interior paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Custom Sandbox with built-in seats

Submitted by Ljmommy on Sat, 09/28/2013 - 10:13

On this project we modified a few things like the arm rests which we cut at an angle to keep kids from pinching fingers in there if someone decided to move the bench back on them. We also modified the size which we made 6'x4' to maximize play sand space and kid space. Therefore this made our benches bigger so that big kids (my husband) could sit on the benches and play in the sandbox. Yes there was talk about putting cup holders but I won the conversation by mentioning sand in his drink and we would have to do a sippy cup. We notched out the handles instead of installing handles which made it look sleek. We used the template from the hinge so it matched the shape....clever huh? We decided to primer and paint this one sandstone in the brick and mortar sample book by Behr and had them put it in an exterior paint color for us. We used a wagner paint sprayer which made the project fast at the end. Overall still an easy project for anyone. I do suggest pre drilling all holes first before screwing in screws so the wood doesn't split when doing the slats on the top.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Primer/Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

DIY farmhouse table

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 12/28/2022 - 16:05

A farmhouse table I built based on one of your inspiration projects! All by hand and chiseled myself 😍

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Turquoise Chaise Lounger

Using this plan I built my lounger with some changes, mainly adding lawn mower wheels to one end. The cushions I made have a mesh bottom to let the cushions dry faster, and zippers so they can be removed and machine washed. More details on what I used and many more photos on my blog.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$60
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
oil based primer, 2 coats exterior latex paint: Glidden Swan White in semi-gloss, Minwax Outdoor polyurethane
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 09/20/2011 - 12:49

I love the idea of the mesh! It would work as a great bench when you need more seating too. I think it'd be nice with huge wooden wheels also.

Entryway Hall Tree

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 01/11/2023 - 04:01

I modified the plans for the farmhouse hall tree to build this for our entryway. The farmhouse hall tree was a perfect base plan for this project! We went from a mess of jammed in jackets and piles of shoes to a clean and organized entrance! Thank you so much for providing the original plans! We love this!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Cornhole Boards

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 02/08/2023 - 18:09

I made one set for my son, the one with the stained top. His friends liked it so much and kept borrowing his set, that he wanted to surprise them with their own and asked me to build them one with the LSU colors. Thought they turned out great! Thank you for the plans!

Comments

Bread Box

I started baking my own bread a few months ago, and storage was an issue. My husband decided to build me an old fashioned bread box and set out designing one on his own to fit in our small galley kitchen. I love it. It is a double decker, so I can fit two loaves in it just fine. The inside is coated with a food-grade sealer.

Estimated Cost
$20: $16 for the food-grade sealer and $4 for the handle, scrap wood used from other projects.
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
White spray paint, food-grade sealer inside.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

JoanneS

Wed, 12/07/2011 - 03:49

This is an awesome idea, can't wait to make one for my kitchen. Beautiful job! Thanks for sharing this!

Outdoor day bed

Submitted by TamTamW on Wed, 07/03/2019 - 09:28

Loved making this. Used old sun curtains and a sheet for extra splendor. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
None.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Bookshelf for our nursey based on your terrific Channing plan

Submitted by Astern on Tue, 12/24/2013 - 14:24

Great, simple bookshelf for our nursery

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$150 for wood, $150 for paint and tools I needed
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Flat wall paint -- the same we used for the trim in the room.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Twin Loft Beds for Twins

Submitted by annierey on Thu, 10/31/2019 - 16:33

My twins just turned four and were still sleeping in their toddler beds, so it was time for an upgrade.  They still want to share a room so we knew we needed to maximize space and open up some room for them to play.  We chose the Camp Loft Bed but raised the height to 72" (with 53" of headspace) so we might be able to add a desk underneath when they get older. 

Essentially, we made two loft beds with the platforms but omitted the stairs.  Then we built a slightly lower platform to put between the two beds, which acts as a step down.  Then instead of making stairs that jut out into the room, we added two 2x4s as ladder rungs to the lower platform.  This also acts as a tunnel for the twins to crawl under to go between each other's play spaces.   This also makes it so the beds can be easily separated if we ever need to put them in separate rooms. 

When it was complete we noticed one of the beds was a little wobbly, so we added diagonal braces in the corners and another 2x4 across the length of the bottom to help stabilize it.  We also chose to use 1x4 pieces of pine as the slats for the mattress to lay across, but they didn't feel like they would support our weight if we wanted to read to them in bed.  So we added two more 2x4s underneath the slats the entire length of the bed, which has added a ton of support. 

We stopped keeping track of exactly how much it cost, but it was close to $400 for both beds combined.  And it took most of my husband's free time for two weeks, but most of that was painting two coats of paint on every piece before assembling.  First he cut all the pieces to size, drilled the holes with a Kreg Jig, and then painted.  To make the painting more efficient, he put a bunch of screws into boards so he could paint all the exposed sides of the lumber, flip, and leave them to dry.  Then we assembled the beds in their room. 

The twins love their new beds, and we love how much more space they have to play in their room!  We were worried the room would feel too crowded but with the openness of the plan and the space that was opened up underneath, we think it turned out great!  Now we can move in a bunch of their toys and reclaim some of our house!  Thanks for the great plans!

Estimated Cost
$400
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Two coats of white paint/primer
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Bunkbed a with trundle

This was a on the fly build no plans  just wanted to post it for ideas for everyone

Estimated Cost
200
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax American walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

DIY Chicken Coop

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 10/30/2023 - 17:55

As a first time chicken farmer, I have four chickens now fully grown. It was 29 degrees in Iowa this morning, wondering if I should wrap the lower portion of the coop on three sides with visqueen, and should the roost windows be covered? I have straw bales to roost on and add where needed . I don’t plan to heat the coop . Any help will be appreciated.

[email protected]

Seasonal And Holiday

Pottery Barn benchwright farmhouse dining table

Submitted by Nathan1342 on Sat, 05/19/2012 - 21:57

UPDATE: For everyone that was asking to see additional photos, I have uploaded them all to flickr. Here is the link: HERE Since doing this table I have built probably 15 more just like this one and developed a much better process then in the pictures above.  If you have any questions or want to chat about it further shoot me a comment or email at [email protected].

I had originally seen this table on the Pottery Barn website. My wife and I really liked it but couldn't afford to pay the $1200 bucks after tax and shipping. it didn't look to difficult to build so I decided to give it a shot. The wood for the top of the table was almost 3in thick 4.5in wide and 51in long. It was wood from an old pallet that was used to transport a very large air handler. Very heavy dense wood. Since the lengths were only 51 inches I opted to put 2 horizontal pieces on either side to extend the total length to approx 70in. I was inspired by the plans for the benchwright table that I saw on this site but chose to deviate from the plans on here to make it as close to the real thing as possible. I also happen to have access to very thick pieces of hardwood. The only thing I had to buy at lowes were the legs. The legs are 4x4 Douglas fir posts. The top pieces were all glued and screwed together. The ends were also done this way but had a very large lag bolt that held them together to match the pottery barn table. This was originally very rough wood so anything to help get the warp out was used. The legs are set at a 10 degree angle and the table stand 30 in tall. The hardest part of this table was finding the turnbuckle and the threaded rods so it could officially be 99% like the pottery barn table. I also had no idea how hard it was to find left hand threaded anything. I ended up finding everything I need at McMaster.com and my local Fastenal store. To make the brackets that went on either side of the rods i simply bought a piece of 1/8 sheet metal at my local Home depot and cut it to size. They also sold hammered brown paint which gave the metal a worked old look. Once this was all constructed I used two heavy coats of wood conditioner to seal the wood. This was the key to getting the color I wanted. It tells you on the can not to let the wood conditioner dry on the wood but if it does, when you apply the stain you get a 100% consistent color. Worked wonders. It almost felt like I was cheating. I used a water based condition and stained it with rustoleums "dark walnut" stain. Finished it with 5 coats of minwax semi gloss. I only did 5 coats because I was brushing it on and had trouble getting the bubbles out of it. In the final picture it looks much shinier then it is in person. The last picture of when it was still in my garage is a better indication of the final finish. I have a boat load of additional picture, so if you have any questions or want to see more pictures of how it was constructed, shoot me a message. Thanks!

Estimated Cost
300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Semi-gloss
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Stain
Minwax water based wood conditioner
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Bunnie1978

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 08:16

I've had trouble with bubbles too... I have two pieces of advice for your next bubble-free project...
1. Get a sprayer. Seriously.
2. If you don't get a sprayer, use the foam pad-brushes for your final layer of poly. Put the last layer on thick and use the largest side of the brush (the side) and lay it down over the wood and drag it slowly accross with the whole large surface on the wood. If it is soaked in poly it will lay it down smooth with little if any bubbles, keep the surface you're working on flat, and after you've finished that, just make sure you clean up any edges where the poly may have dripped down. Last step, when it's almost dry, use 600 grit sandpaper to VERY lightly smooth out any little bumbs, which will come off more like paste than dust. But really, you should just get a sprayer. :)

In reply to by Bunnie1978

Nathan1342

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 17:42

Hey Bunnie,

Thanks for the tips! I completely agree with you about the sprayer. I do actually have a sprayer but didn't want to get the garage covered in over spray. Maybe one of these days I will get ambitious and apply another coat. :)

Bunnie1978

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 19:22

My whole living room is covered in overspray right now... just got a sprayer and used it for the first time this weekend. LOL. I don't have a garage.

SawgrassHomeGirl

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 09:35

This is awesome! Can you give more direction as to which specific items you got at mcmaster.com and Fastenal?

Also, how did you attach the sheet metal pieces? If you have any more pictures of the underside (frame) of the table, I'd love to see them!

Thank you very much, and again, this is spectacular. We want to try to build this, too.

Great job!

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 10:38

Love it! This project turned out great and I love how you tracked down the hardware - that finishes it off perfectly!

Like SawgrassHomeGirl, I'm wondering what the actual names of the items are that you tracked down. I went and paged through the McMaster and Fastenal sites, but since I'm completely unfamiliar with mechanical doodads I'm not even sure which categories to look under.

Fantastic job! Thanks for posting this!

Nathan1342

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 18:13

Thank you for the nice comments. This was my first official project so I am happy that it turned out well!

Sure! I'd be happy to know the names of the hardware items. At Mcmaster.com the turnbuckle I purchased was Item number 30045T44 . It is about 6in long and seemed to fit nicely with the length of the table. the rods were just simply threaded rods which I purchased at fastenal since we have a few of their stores in town. The rods come in 6 ft pieces so I didn't want to have to pay the shipping. If you don't have a Fastenal near by here are the item numbers for the rods; 90322A220 -right hand threaded rod and 95625A160 - left hand threads. They are a bit more expensive at mcmaster though.

The biggest thing I was worried about was that the entire rod had threads on it so I was worried that it would look odd. But after getting it painted you don't even notice that it isn't just a solid pipe.

Sawgrass: shoot me your email address and I'll send you some more pictures. This site only allows me to post 5 additional photos. But to elaborate on the frame and the metal pieces, I didn't' really build a frame for it. You can essentially break it down into two pieces: Top and the legs. Instead of building a frame and screwing the pieces down on it, I opted to screw each of the pieces together using a Kreg tool and also glue them. the wood was heavy enough to support everything without an elaborate internal structure. The two end pieces help keep things from warping. The only reinforcement I did for the top was to take 3 2x4's and screw them horizontally on the underside. You will be able to see all of this in the pictures. As for the metal pieces, i drilled 5 holes in each piece. 4 holes for the screws that hold it to the leg region and one half inch hole in the middle for the rod to go through. I have a bunch of close ups of this process so you should be able to get a very good idea of how things work. Overall I tried to keep everything as simple as possible.

Thanks for all the interest and if anyone has anymore questions please don't hesitate to ask!

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:01

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer our questions! You did a fantastic job on this table and I am adding it to my ever-growing list of projects to do!

Now I'm off to find that hardware. :-)

Thanks, again!

lillylamp

Fri, 11/08/2013 - 06:33

My e-mail is [email protected]
My husband is making this table for Thanksgiving dinner. We are expecting 14 people so he is making the table a total of 12 feet long! Any input or pictures will be greatly appreciated!
Lisa and Gary Peters
Angola, IN

aclisto

Fri, 09/05/2014 - 14:53

Could you send me the more pictures link?  Great job!  goldmoon8(@)hotmail(dot)com

Destiny (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 16:58

So i wanna build this table this summer, could you shoot me some more pictures of the designs and actual steps for building it. i absolutely love it, and i hope mine comes out as good as yours!

Robert (not verified)

Sat, 05/26/2012 - 13:13

This has been on my to do list for a while now, but I haven't been able to work out the hardware details like you did. I would love to get some more pictures especially of the underside and of your rod to stretcher connection. Thanks again and you did an amazing job!

Bulldog1Jack

Fri, 04/25/2014 - 18:43

Nathan,
Can you send me the link for the other photos...table is awesome.
Thanks
John

Aubrey (not verified)

Sat, 05/26/2012 - 17:54

I love this table! I am new to this site and to building, but I want this to be my first project. Could you possibly email me the detailed pics and plans also so I can get started? :) Thanks so much!

ajmccallister

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 18:41

I am really inspired by the table you built. It looks like you built your legs with 4x4s. Did you drill through them to get the notch on the outside or did you do something else just to get the look? Great work!

Nathan1342

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 20:58

Hi Aj,

Yes, I did use 4x4's for the legs. It was much easier this way, did a great job achieving the heavy look I was interested in and was the closest I could come to the pottery barn table. To answer you question, no I did not drill through. I attached the 2x4 cross member with 2 leg screws from the outside of the 4x4 leg. I then cut a small piece of the 2x4 and nailed it over the lag screw holes to simulate the 2x4 cross member coming through. It looks just like I cut a hole and the whole thing is coming through. I get asked how I did it by people that see it in person because it doesn't look like a separate piece is just nailed on.

If you look at IMAG0306 and IMAG0308 on flickr you can see what it looks like without them on and if you look at the bottom left hand corner of the picture you can see the pieces that have been cut and not put on yet.

Sara (not verified)

Mon, 06/11/2012 - 06:48

Your table is gorgeous! I'm curious how much this cost for you to build (lumber and finish materials) and how much of an increase in cost do you think it would be if you had to purchase all the lumber?

In reply to by Sara (not verified)

Nathan1342

Mon, 06/11/2012 - 11:01

The Lower portion was probably about $200. The biggest expense was the threaded rods and the turnbuckle. The rods were about $30 each and the turnbuckle after shippping was about $20. The wood for the lefts and cross members were purchased at my local lowes so they were pretty cheap. As for the top, its hard to say since wood prices vary quite a bit between types and thickness. If you were to buy wood like I used you would probably have to visit a sawmill and see if you could get rough cut wood that is at least 2.5 inches thick. I would estimate $300 give or take. If you follow the plans that ana has setup for the top you don't necessarily need to get wood that is that thick. You can achieve close to the same look but just using 3/4 in pieces. I think if you look very closely at the pottery barn pictures, they do not use 100% solid wood either. But I wanted the heavy look and the solid appearance. So total you are probably looking at $500-$600. Hope this helps!

Curt (not verified)

Wed, 06/20/2012 - 11:28

Great job Nathan - I appreciate your workmanship on the table. You've answered one of my questions regarding the look of the cross member protuding thru the leg - slick idea. My other question - why all the large round holes in the bottom of the table? By the way, the dowel effect that you accomplished really pops. I too like the looks of the thicker boards. Thanks for posting an interesting and comprehensive article. Curt

In reply to by Curt (not verified)

Nathan1342

Thu, 06/21/2012 - 13:06

Those holes in the bottom of the table were there when the wood was salvaged. This was a pallet so they had it bolted together with large lag bolts. The bolts had large washers inset into the wood. The bolts were secured on the underside of the wood and went through every piece. Luckily, they were consistent and only bolted from one side.

Thanks!

Sara (not verified)

Tue, 07/10/2012 - 06:36

Thank you, Nathan, that really helps! Did I mention your table is beautiful?

leabea28

Fri, 08/03/2012 - 12:53

Hi Nathan,

Awesome table. I just hope I can find some 3" thick lumber without breaking the bank! It looks like you attached the legs by putting 2 bolts through the legs into the small apron on the short ends of the table. It also looks like you might have also put in some pocket holes on the inside of the legs, going straight down into the underneath of the table boards. Is that right? I am just wondering how sturdy it is, since it's such a heavy table.

Thanks!

Lea

In reply to by leabea28

Nathan1342

Mon, 08/06/2012 - 11:43

Yes, you are correct. I attached the legs with 2, 6inch lag bolts. I pre-drilled them at the correct angle (which I eye balled) and ratcheted them in. I was a little worried about them being sturdy enough so I went ahead and made a few pocket holes and secured it that was also. The legs overall are very sturdy. The table probably weights 150-200lbs and I was able to pick up one side of it only holding onto one leg. Table doesn't wobble at all. The cross member holding the legs together also helped pull everything together.

Thanks for the question! Feel free to ask any others!

Nathan

JenFarrell (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:17

Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!

JenFarrell (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:19

Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!

3RaysofSunshine

Fri, 08/24/2012 - 09:33

Nice work! I made bench seats in this style - maybe I'll post pics sometime too! I saw in your description that you used thick wood to be more like the original... just wanted to let you know that I have seen the "original" and yours is much better! Pottery barn does NOT use solid 3" wood for the top. If you look closely at the pics in their online catalog you can even tell... they use thin planks with a side piece to make them look thick. The only hefty piece is on the very end .

Also, I wanted to mention that I have had great luck with wipe-on polyurethane... never any bubbles. Just be sure to use lint free cloths and lots of thin layers.

Again, nice work!

3RaysofSunshine

Fri, 08/24/2012 - 10:05

I apply with a cloth. It takes many coats but they are so thin they dry fast. In between coats, I wet sand with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. After towel drying, I run my hand across the surface. You'll feel any spots you missed. Then use a tack cloth to pick up any dust (there's always some...) I get a perfect finish using this method. I'm sure spraying is great too... I just like not having another piece of equipment to clean!

My last project (a patio table) I had run out of the wipe-on poly and decided to use something else - whatever I had on hand. Grr! Not nearly as nice looking so I'm doing it over. I'll post pictures of a few projects as soon as I can figure out how.

greenebeansmom (not verified)

Sun, 11/18/2012 - 21:15

Why cant my husband make stuff......booooooooo! Wonderful table I am so jealous lol.

Shannan with an A

Tue, 04/16/2013 - 16:34

Before I clicked on your brag photo, I really thought it WAS a Pottery Barn table posted for comparison! Wow, that is beautiful!!!

Nathan1342

Thu, 05/02/2013 - 15:04

Hey Lea,

It was only 1/8 in thick metal so a simple jig saw with a metal bit worked great. Wear eye protection though. It shoots off all sorts of hot metal bits. To drill the holes I just used a power drill with a metal bit. Make sure you drill 100% straight or the bit will bind and jerk the drill right out of your hand. Ideally, a drillpress would work much better since I nearly broke my wrist on the second large hole.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Thanks,

tcoche

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 20:36

The table looks awesome man! Love it. I just got done building the benchright table to Ana Whites plan, see mine here http://ana-white.com/2013/05/farmhouse-benchright-table-build-0

I just ordered the left hand threaded rod, right hand threaded rod and turnbuckle from McMaster.com...total cost for all 3 was 22 bucks. Here are the McMaster part numbers:
90036A033- left hand rod
98841A033- right hand rod
30045T44- galvanized turnbuckle

I'll hopefully get the rods and turnbuckle this week so I can totally complete this project.

Again, awesome job nathan!!!

CoreyOrvold

Sat, 07/13/2013 - 22:28

What a great table. We plan on starting ours soon but are having trouble find large bolts for the table top sides. What size did you use and where did you find them?

Poolside Hightop Deck Chair

I have used so many of Ana's plans, I decided to design my own chair! I wanted a high top patio style chair that the back was angled and had a footrest. This is perfect for my outdoor patio. I think I need to update the plan already to include a cup holder! Appreciate any feedback or comments.

Estimated Cost
$50
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
None
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Scrapwood wooden houses

Submitted by Kate_14 on Mon, 05/18/2020 - 13:49

I built these cute little houses with scrap wood. They are easy to customize!

I used 1x6 boards for the house and 1x2 boards for the roof. I attached the roof with bradnails.

Estimated Cost
0$
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Paint and stain
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project
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