Community Brag Posts

Night Stand

I loved this from Ana's site so much we tacked one. Please note I glued, screwed and dowel ed the holes. I hate kreg jigs. We also made ours taller to add an extra shelf.

This was such an easy project to complete although it did take some time to measure and cut all the boards.  I could only transport 2x4s at 8' so after cutting the height to 6' for the braces I used the extra 2' for the shelf width.  The extra width really helped with some of my storage totes.  I made the first section at 5' in length to handle the heavier totes, and the second section I used the full 8' board with a brace in the middle.  I wish my garage was a little deeper to handle 16' of shelves as it would have saved me a good bit of time.  I'm also glad I have an extra ryobi battery to charge while I assemble.  Gotta love how fast those things charge.  Can't wait to try another one of your plans.

I built this for my mom's guest room.  She watched my kids and I worked in the garage.. couldn't have been a better vacation! :)

I used 6" (finished size 5") tongue and groove boards for the panel, shorter posts and screwed main structure pieces together using 5-1/2" lag bolts and plugging with 3/4" dowel pieces.  I added woodedn blocks at the bottom of posts for attaching metal bed frame.

My dad didn't have any pipe clamps so I ended up using a wratcheting strap!  HA!  Use what you can and save money! :)

I built this easel for my wife who teaches 2nd grade using the plan on this site. I used a jigsaw to make all the cuts which is why some of them are not perfect. All holes were countersunk and covered with wood filler as I have not yet purchased a Kreg Jig. One sample jar of paint was just enough to cover the whole project with 2 coats. Home Depot sells the whiteboard in 2' x 4' pieces for about $10 in my area. The toughest part was getting the holes to line up just right for the bolts that fix the four main pieces together. Some of them I had to use a little bit of force to make fit. The plan was easy to follow and worked well. I added a curtain rod to the top to hang a paper pad from which I bought for about $5. The big whiteboard behind the easel was hung over the existing chalkboard using industrial strength velcro strips. I bought the whiteboard material from Home Depot for $13 for a 4' x 8' sheet (it is actually called a "hardboard panel board". It works very well with dry erase markers and was an easy, cheap way to install a whiteboard over the current chalkboard.

As the kids are getting a little older it was time to retire the train table and pass it on to family. Although our living room is growing up we still wanted a place for storage, though.

I modified the Adirondack Coffee Table to include a lower shelf (just make a second box the size of the top one and screw it into the bottom of the legs) and made it wider and longer (49"x33") and taller (20"). 6 of our toy buckets will fit on the lower shelf for storage. By making the top 49" I was able to cut the 1x6 to make a top board and a bottom board from each (top 50" for a little overhang, bottom boards 46". 6 1x6 boards were needed to make the two shelves, in addition to the 2x4s. Since it is bigger there is also a stretcher across the center for a little extra strength (because we all know that at some point a child will stand on it).

It took me about 4 hours to build it and then a couple more hours spread over the weekend to stain/poly. All total this one was about 6-7 hours for me to build.

I pretty much followed the original plans.  I added a chamfer on the outside corners of the posts and on the top boards on the head and foot boards.  I also stained these to match the nightstands.  Since I used a foam mattress, i built a platform by gluing/screwing a 2x4 inside the side rails.  Then I set 1x6s on the 2x4 to support the mattress.  

I use the free version of Sketchup to design the bed and estimate materials needed.  

Lessons learned

• Take extra time to figure out how to connect the side rails to the head and foot boards.  I thought i could use a sliding lock but this wouldn't work for my design.  I improvised using 3x7 tie plates and screwed the two components together.  For the headboard, I lined the 2x4 with the inside headboard post.  For the footboard, I bent the tie plate 90 degrees and screwed the 2x4 to the footboard.  It worked very well.
• I would recommend chamfering the outside top of the side rails.  I didn't and my wife complains that she  bumps her shins on it. 
• Top boards are 1x5s, which in my are are only sold at home depot.  The other wood is readily available.

It's not that difficult of a project.  It is time consuming, though.

Built three 10 dollar ledges of fir for a tall, awkward area over our stairs. 3.5, 4.5, and 6 feet long. Looks great and finally can make use of that space. I initially bought red oak but decided it was too heavy (and too expensive at $90). Still need to putty the screw holes.

We eventually will build the rest of the bed, but for now we needed a headboard. Hubby helped me with this one, since it was large, I loved having an extra pair of hands. This headboard is reversible, so if our tastes change, we can unbolt it and flip it over to the side that is just stained and polyurethane. Pretty neat! This headboard is extra tall, because we have our bed frame up on risers, and we wanted a picture shelf but didn't want it interfering when we sat up in bed to read or what-not. Hubby used the router to make grooves in the top before we attached it, so our pictures wouldn't be crashing down on our head! Our metal bed frame comes just shy of the outer edge of the legs of the headboard, so when we build the rest of the bed, the side rails will meet the edge exactly. We placed the headboard behind the bed frame to mark where to drill the bolt holes and attached the headboard to the frame with 4 inch long, quarter inch wide bolts with washers and nuts. Two on each side.

This is the nightly sleeper for our 6yo (queen) and 4yo (twin) boys, but we have in-laws who visit from out of town frequently and we also wanted a place to allow them to be comfortable as couples.

To accomodate adult headroom on the queen, I raised the entire loft 7" (72" high) and to fit the queen beneath, I had to lengthen the loft rails by 9" (84" long). To fill the resulting gap, I just used some 39" scraps of 2x4 and 2x6 overlapped to create a 4x10 landing which actually ended up a cool addition since it gives the kids a spot lower than the mattress to make the transition from the ladder to the mattress. It also has given us adults a spot to sit off the mattress while comforting them to sleep when needed, so we don't end up waking them when we leave.

I based the height of the queen legs (made four of them) off the size of a standard storage tote, which was ~13". We can fit 12-16 totes of clothes or other random storage under the bed as a result. The queen frame was just a simple 64"x84" rectangle out of 2x6s with 7 2x4s used as crossbeams to hold the mattress.

Note on the mattresses - these 8" memory foam mattresses are just as comfortable as our expensive name brand king mattress, but MUCH cheaper!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-8-inch-Memory-Foam-Mattress-Multiple-Sizes/47826185

Despite raising the loft, I kept the height of the stair platform the same, but just added a second 'ladder' rung to get up to the loft (refer back to the 4x10 landing spot on the loft). To keep with the using available storage space theme, instead of attaching the stairs permanently, I used 1"x4" hinges to that we could swing the stairs up and put 4 more storage totes under there. (However, we quickly found that the kids liked that area as a 'fort', so we've left it open for their use.)

In the picture, you'll note there are four treads/steps on the stairs because I thought to myself "little feet, little steps" would be better. I soon learned that the littles are more than capable of using adult sized steps while adults nearly killed themselves coming down the little feet, little steps. As such, I ended up removing one of the middle steps and moving the new singular middle to a spot between the other two. Much better, stay with 3 steps.

While the queen can stand alone, I still attached it to the 'legs' of the loft so that our rambunctious boys didn't 'sweep the leg' and bring the whole thing down on themselves while under it.

Loved making this shelf!

So I followed the plan except I tried to use more pocket hole screws. I managed to use them for all parts except the seat and back. Looking at them I see how I can use them for those areas too ( just a little pre planning next time)
I’m using Behr Wedgwood waterproofing stain and sealer to complete the project.
I love all your plans and can’t wait for my next project.

I had a bunch of my old skis that I had used as a display wall in my chalet that I needed to do something with, and this was a perfect solution!