Tryde Coffee Table

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Dimensions: 
24″ wide x 18″ high x 55″ long

2 3/4″ Screws
1 – 2×2 8′ length board (about $1.50)
1- 2×6 8′ or stud length board (about $2.50)
4 – 2x4s 8′ or stud length boards(about $2 each)
1 – 4×4 post at least 6′ length (about $5)
2 – 1×4 boards (about $2.50 each)
Sandpaper (coarse)
Stain,varnish, paint or other finishing product
Wood Putty

Common Materials: 
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
sander
Cut List: 

A) 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 16 1/2″ (Legs)
B) 2 – 1×4 @ 20 1/2″ (Leg Joiners)
C) 2 – 1×4 @ 40″ (Side Aprons)
D) 4 – 1×4 @ 2 3/4″ (End Apron Spacer)
E) 2 – 1×4 @ 15″ (End Aprons)
F) 4 – 2×2 @ 20 1/2″ (Tabletop Supports)
G) 2 – 2×6 @ 24 1/2″ (Breadboard Ends)
H) 7 – 2×4 @ 43 1/2″ (Tabletop Pieces – Measure the table before cutting these boards)

Project Type: 
Skill Level: 
Estimated Cost: 
Style: 
General Instructions: 

Cut out all boards except H. To get the best fit, you will measure and precisely cut out each of the boards H to fit the table. Remember, use the 2 3/4″ screws unless otherwise noted and always predrill and countersink your screws. Use glue on all joints to keep the table from seperating later.

Step 1

Screw the Leg Joiner, B to the legs, A, as shown above. Do this on both sets of legs. Use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 2

Screw the side aprons, C, into the ends of the leg joiners, B, as shown above.

Summary: 

A beautiful solid wood coffee table that is heavy, rustic and substantial. From our beloved Tryde Collection.

Step 3

Now add the end apron spacers, D, as shown above. Screw into the legs and also screw from the inside of B, the leg joiner, into the end edge of D.

Step 4

Now is a good time to check for square. There is a video in the HOW-TO section to help you check for square.

Step 5

Screw the tabletop supports, F, in as shown above, spacing the supports 6 1/2″ appart.

Step 6

Now screw the breadboard ends in, as shown above.

Step 7

Check your table for square again. Now measure the center of the table and mark. Take a length measurement (very precise) and cut your first tabletop board, H.

Step 8

Mark and predrill your tabletop board as shown above. Now place the board in the center of the table, as shown in step 8, and screw inplace from the top. Flip the table over and screw through the supports, F, into the bottom of the tabletop pieces, H.

Step 9

Step 9 Instructions: 

Measure, cut, mark, predrill and place your next row of tabletop boards on the top of the table. Repeat step 9. This time, make sure the edges of the tabletop boards line up. Do not leave gap between the tabletop boards.

Step 10

Fill your screw holes with wood putty and let dry. Sand, distress and finish as desired.

Comments

I found your through The Shabby Nest, and I am so glad that she introduced me to you, cause I've been wanting one of those Hyde tables!! When I showed it to my husband, he told me that he thought that he could build it, and now I know that he can!! :) I'm going to show him the plans tonight! Maybe I'll have myself a "Hyde" table this week!! :)
Thanks so much and Merry Christmas! Beth.

I found you through the Shabby Nest and I'm really Thrilled to find you!!! You're on my Favorites List now! We're headed from Michigan to Florida for a wedding just before Christmas...but I can't wait to get started on one of your plans!! You'll be hearing from me again soon! Merry Christmas!

Ana, is it possible for you to post about how to modify this plan for the console Hyde table? It's PB's skinnier, taller version with a shelf underneath. I would love one of these for behind our sofa...would appreciate any tips or plans you could share. ~Maria

Hi Maria,

Thank you so much for reading my blog and leaving comments!

There actually is a plan online that is very similar to the Hyde Console Table, but super easy to build - I actually labeled it Simple Cheap and Easy Console Table. It is located here: http://knockoffwood.blogspot.com/2009/11/plan-simple-cheap-and-easy-cons...

I will also be posting plans for the Hyde Console table so check back soon.

Thanks again for stopping by! Ana

Welcome to the party Ana! I'm so glad to have you show the party goers all that you can do. You've amazed me for weeks now and your stuff needs to simply be seen. :)

Ponder... I think you need a feature in your future. :D

Thanks for linking up one of your wonderful creations to SNS! Folks, this girl is baaaad, is she not?!?

Funky Junk Donna

Your furniture knock offs are amazing! I came over from FJ and have enjoyed looking around your blog. Love your Restoration Hardware dining table too.

I am so excited about finding your blog! I have expensive taste without the budget! My husband is a carpenter and has already made me two items that I wanted from the Pottery Barn...
My "honey do" list is endless...and now I can just pull this site up and show him exactly what I want. Thank you thank you!

I just found you through Funky Junk and I so happy I did. Thank you so much for sharing this. Your directions are so easy I could make this myself.

Deb

Where has this blog been all my life?!? I can't believe I haven't stumbled across it sooner. I'm in love! I can't wait to do one of these amazing projects! =]

When you go to the lumber store it seems like they have several different types of wood in 1x4's and 2x2's, etc. What type of board to you get? Better yet, what type of wood did Beth use on hers?

Thanks so much!

Wow! I love this! I'm wondering how difficult it would be to convert this project to a dining table? I think it would look great and survive my four kids! =D

Beth used regular old pine boards. These are the cheapest. You can use even stud grade lumber. I know she said she choose boards that were rough looking to get the reclaimed look, but just make sure you buy straight boards.

Wow! What a great coffee table! I totally intend to make this my first project of your site, which I am telling everyone about. I have a question though, my coffee table area is VERY small. Finding one this small is impossible, so being able to build one is great! The current badly painted Freecycle coffee table is 32.5"L x 16"W x 17"H. What modifications would I need to make to make it roughly this same size? Thanks!

I just finished building this last night (still need to do the stain, etc. before I send pics) and the plans were great! The only suggestion is that it looks like there isn't a mention of attaching part E. I suppose it's fairly obvious that I needed to but it might not hurt to add that in.

I built this project and it came out perfect. You did leave out a picture for one of the pieces but it was easy enough to figure out. What an easy first project. Thanks.

I just came across this website and it is awesome. Hopefully you continue to provide all of us with great plans and instructional videos. Thanks!

The coolest part about this post was that you stayed up until 2:30am writing it! What dedication! This is my next project and I have become obsessed with building! Thanks for your hard work ANA!

Hi Ana!
I know you have written it elsewhere, I haven't been able to find it, but what adjustments need to be made for the elusive 4x4? Are the measurements relatively the same if we use two 2x4?

Hi, when you use 2 - 2x4s remember that the overall dimensions will be 3" x 3 1/2" instead of the dimensions of of a 4x4 3 1/2" x 3 1/2". Good luck with your table. :)

Do you know where you can get the 2 3/4 inch screws? I can find 2.5 inch and 3 inch but no 2.75 inch. Can I just use 2.5 inch instead? Love your new site.

Thanks

Thank you so much for posting these plans. It quickly became my weekend project.

Oh for those asked I used 2.5 inch screws and they worked perfect. I personally don't think I would have liked using anything longer. Anyways here is a link to my master piece http://tinyurl.com/2625wej

Hi Ana! I happened upon your website the other night and I am so psyched! My hubby and I will be moving shortly to a new home and I was wondering how I was going to be able to finance all the things I wanted. Now I know I can build them, thanks to you. My hubby even said he'd help, however, once he sees my list, he might change his mind, lol! Anyway, I believe this coffee table will be my very first project. However, what I really want is to modify it, kind of like that reader whose picture appears; "supersized" you called it. I would like a larger size than the rectangular plans you offer. I would like a square coffee table, the type that are popular now and used with sectionals. Since I haven't built furniture before, I definitely don't feel comfortable just winging it. Anyway, would you consider offering measurements for a square tryde coffee table? Pretty please? Thank you for all that you do. You are awesome; a true inspiration! God bless you!

Hi Ana! I am super excited that a friend of mine shared your blog via Facebook. I love me a good power tool, but usually don't have the know it all to get the plans in my head all figured out & built. SUPER excited to have found you! Thanks for posting all your knowledge!
XoX
Denise

Could a variation of this be made so that there is storage for blankets and quilts underneath. I would love it to be the dimensions of the one that you have pictured above that reader Sarah made. Something where the top opens up and there would be hidden storage. Maybe the hinges could be braced down a center stationary brace and then it opened on two sides so the whole top wasn't to heavy for little hands to open....

hello ana!

i love this coffee table! i was wondering if i could follow the same procedure to turn it into a farmhouse table? I know you have another plan for that, but i just love the chunky legs of this table. what do you think?

thanks a bunch!

your biggest fan!

My daughter's pre-k teachers told me about this website just this afternoon. I just have to tell you how much I LOVE THIS SITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my husband is a general contractor ,but has no idea about building furniture. But now that I see how easy you make it and TRULY easy to understand directions I can't wait to build this coffee table!!! I do love me some pottery barn butwho can afford it now adays! Once again Thank You SOOOOO much for this totaly awesome wedsite. If I could see you I'd hug you I'm so Happy!!! lol

My 23 yr old and I are going to make this and the Cara bookshelf this weekend. Is there an easy way to add a lower shelf to the coffee table? I would love to have some square basket 'catch-alls' underneath!

This is exactly what I've been looking for! And hubbie's working late all month. Maybe I can get it built before he can say "you probably can't." LOL (my first project, the cube bench, is still in the garage waiting for its final coat of top coat. I'm slow!! haha The bench has been there for a month. ;-))

Hey Ana, do you recommend using pine for the top or something a little harder like oak?? Also I haven't been able to find 4x4's that are untreated...they all have that ugly green tint to them in the store (Lowes or HD are about the only places around here) does that really matter or will the stain take care of it? thanks so much it looks great and I can't wait to build it!

I adore this coffee table! I showed it to my husband and he loved it too! Just as soon as I finish my clients furniture I will be building this one for my home. Thanks for the awesome plans!

Ana, let me start by saying I'm thrilled that I found your site. I've been working on building a coffee table, but decided to scrap it and start over. I originally wanted to build it with dowels but it's a pain to make sure everything lines up perfectly. Your design definitely seems more simple (and fun) to put together.
Anyway, the only places for me to get wood in my area are Lowe's and Home Depot. The only problem is that neither sell untreated 4x4s. Is it best to use a different stain for these? I know it has to be dry first, but do you know if it will take the stain the same as untreated wood?

Dose anyone know how much this table will hold? I wanna put an aquarium on it and this could weigh upto 550lbs. Do you think this is a stable enough table? And sugestions on making it more stable?

Hi, I just made this Tryde Coffee Table and I'm so pleased with it! I discovered your site while using google images to find a rustic coffee table that I liked. Imagine my surprise when I realized my favorite was a DIY project...Yay! It is probably the sturdiest piece of furniture in my whole house! My husband manages a lumber yard/warehouse at a home hardware store and with his discount I was able to get everything I needed for $20! I can't wait to tackle my next project...Reclaimed Wood Headboard! Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful plans with all of us!

I just finished building this coffee table and am very happy with it. I didn't stick completely to the plans though. I had a bit of 2x4 scrap wood laying around, so I just used that for the side & end aprons, attaching them flush with the legs. I also used 2x4 for the legs, because my Lowes and Home Depot don't sell untreated 4x4s. I don't know what's more satisfying, having my new table in the living room or using my old falling apart one as firewood.

I really like the look in the first picture at the beginning of the post, or even the first picture in the "additional photos" section.

What stains were used to achieve this look?

Thanks

This was an amazing plan to build from...thank you Ana! I did have one suggestion as my cutting skill are still improving:) I put on one side piece and then added the long middle pieces. After dry fitting everything, I then cut and added the second end piece. That was easier than trying to get my 2x4s to cut exactly to fit inside the 2 set side pieces. I also brought my side pieces in just a bit to give them more support. Instead of just filling my screw holes, I strategically spaced them on the boards. I then went and added some rustic brads over the hole. It gave it a very unique look. This was a great starter plan. Don't doubt yourself...just try it!

Happy Cutting!

Can anyone please provide a close up photo of how they screwed everything together? (Especially step 2, as these will be seen in the final product). I was thinking about countersinking them deep and filling them in with dowels or hole caps.

BTW, I stumbled upon this website yesterday by ways of artofmanliness.com and I'm already planning what I want to make. This coffee table will be my first project and will be my Christmas present to my fiance. Thank you Ana and the whole community. This is a invaluable resource!

Hi Ana (or anyone that can help)!

We're sitting here with the pieces of wood and there's something we're not understanding about the very first step. According to the picture of Step 1, we should leave a 3/4" space on each side, but we don't get how the 1" thick C side aprons are going to fit in that spot (they stick out 1/4"??). Are we missing something?
Same thing for step 3 and 4, shouldn't the spacing be 1 inch?
Help!

Most 1X lumber is not truly an inch thick. It's more like 3/4 inch due to the process of cutting and planning boards. Check the thickness of your lumber and adjust the space you leave accordingly.

The final dimension of wood is not assured. 1x stock started off roughly 1" thick while it was still rough. Surfacing typically takes it down 1/4". Wood at a home improvement store may lose more like 5/16", because they tend to start out with an inferior grade of wood and more needs to be taken off.

Since the 3/4" thickness is never assured, during stock breakdown you should only cut to rough size, leaving a bit over, and then trim to final size based on actual measurements taken as you build. A lesson learned the hard way, and one I need to occasionally remind myself.

Thank you! That makes a lot of sense actually.
I have another question: how do you work around wood not being perfectly straight or perfectly cut? We don't have access to cut it/perfect it ourselves. This is out first project and we had all the wood cut at Home Depot.

Thanks again!

No such thing as perfect wood. It's a natural product with all the variation that implies. That's okay, there's beauty in the imperfection. When I'm at a lumber dealer, it's the woods with the imperfections in grain and coloring that I buy on impluse.

That said, there are some steps you can take to get better wood for your next project. The first is don't let the people at the home center cut it, even if they ask nicely. If they do the cuts correctly for building your furniture, it will be entirely by chance. They aren't set up to do that. If you're going to build furniture you need to be able to cut it and work it yourself.

The good news for you is that the tools can be purchased quite cheaply. I'd recommend picking up a book like Hand Tool Essentials which talks about how to use hand tools and how to buy good quality used ones without breaking the bank. It also talks about how to sharpen them.

It would be a very rare thing for wood to show up perfectly flat and straight. I generally make use of hand planes to fix that problem. If you know how to use them, practice a bit on some scrap, and keep them sharp, an inexpensive used plane can do a lot for you.

I also buy used saws from ebay, and I've had good luck. If you can pick up a used Diston D-23 crosscut saw, you'll have a saw that will last you the rest of your life. I've bought two of them, and paid less than $30 for each, after shipping.

First, I won't buy wood that isn't straight. I avoid buying wood from Home Depot or Lowes because they mostly have firewood at lumber prices. If you're willing to spend a lot of time hunting you can find straight wood there, but it's easier, faster and cheaper to go to a real lumber yard. If you're in southeast Michigan I can't recommend Chelsea Lumber strongly enough. Good prices, good service and good product.

As for the problem of wood cut by the store, I have a very simple solution: I don't let those hacks near my lumber with a saw. If it wasn't firewood before it certainly will be afterward.

Ana's Getting Started list is a bit pricey. It sounds like you already have a drill, which is good. Those are useful. But skip buying the powered saws for now. Instead, buy two hand saws (and go to Lowes to do it).

The first is commonly called a panel saw. It may have a different name at Lowes, but it will be a little over 20 inches long, with a tapered blade, and will look exactly like what you're picturing when you think of a hand saw.

The other saw is a back saw. It's maybe a little over a foot long, the same height from end to end, and has a thicker metal spine on the back of the blade.

You'll also need some instruction on how to use them, and how to build a couple of tools to use them effectively. I like the book "Hand Tool Essentials," which covers a lot of other tools as well. There's also a good video by Chris Schwarz on building a saw bench. He shows how to use these saws properly, and how to build the additional tools you'll need. There's also a good video blog called "Logan Cabinet Shoppe" that covers the fundamentals of using these saws really well.

The tools seem crude, but I just build a really nice coffee table for a friend using the two hand saws mentioned, some planes, and some chisels. Simple and inexpensive tools can do beautiful work if given the chance. You can see it here: http://claydowling.com/articles/11122011-2038/ariels-table

I love this table i just built one slightly shorter in length and now im ready to stain. I really love the colour stain in the first picture under additional photos. Does anyone know what the name of that stain colour??

I love these plans and this table. I have a funny dimension in my living room and have not found anything that fits right. So, I am thinking about modifying these plans and making this table this weekend.

But, I don't want to screw in from the top. Can I get away with just using the bottom screws. Any other suggestions? I see that some of your plans call for using the Kreg Jig. Is that something I can use here?

Thanks! Absolutely love this site!

The kreg jig is ideal for securing the top to the supports from underneath. In fact pocket holes are a traditional method for securing a table top to its frame.

Thanks for the quick response! I am off to buy some lumber.

Im new to carpentry and building stuff with wood this was the first thing ive ever made. I made it and it looks great is very sturdy and cost me $30 in materials. my question is since im new is how can i get the table top smothe between each board? some are a hair higher than others and one is about an eight inch higher oops. I dont want to dissasseble the whole thing but would a belt sander do the trick? great website yall keep it up ill probably be making some night stands soon also once i find one the wife might like from here. any help would be great thank you!

Getting a smooth top will be very labor intensive. A belt sander is definitely one way to do it. A hand plane is the route I would recommend though, because it will be cheaper, faster and more assured of a good result. There are quite a few good videos out there about flattening slabs and panels, and I would recommend looking those up.

I have to warn you that the first time you try this, no matter what method you use, is going to take a long time, be strenuous, and getting the desired result is going to take a long time.

If you use the hand planes (which, again, is the faster, cheaper and easier route), first learn how to sharpen well. The final shape of the blade is a mater of personal preference, but the one consistent factor is that the straight edge the maker put on it doesn't work well for panel flattening.

Thank you for the tips. I was going to rent a belt sander from the local hardware store and have a go at it. The wife says she dont mind it so idk if i will or not. it kinda bugs me but oh well we will see what happens maybe next weekend ill bee bored enough. it turned out great I just need to sand it down so its smoothe i keep getting slivers. then stain it.

I'm in the middle of building this table, and am running into a couple of problems. This is my first time building something of this size and complexity, and I'd love to get some advice from anyone who has run into something similar.

I've modified the plans a bit to turn this into a desk, making it taller and slightly wider. I've built the frame, up through step 4, and the whole thing seems quite a bit wobbly, especially long ways. It is level. I've checked for square, and I'm about 1/2-inch off. I checked the width of the frame at both ends and the length at both sides, and those are the same.

I know that adding the rest will help a bit with stability, but I'm worried it won't be enough. It's wobbly length-wise, rather than width-wise, so I don't know if the tabletop supports will help that issue. Is my 1/2-inch off square the cause of the problem? Is there anything I can do at this point other than ripping it apart and starting over?

The top will not improve stability. Usually when a structure is wobbly it's because the joints aren't tight.

It may be as simple as tightening down fasteners, but it might be more involved, requiring you to replace miscut pieces or change the way you attach something.

Without being hands-on with your project I can't really troubleshoot this for you. But you can go over it and look for the spots that are loose. If the instability is in the length, chances are that your problem is in pieces that run lengthwise, or the joints attaching them to your structure.

Look for what's loose, what doesn't meet solidly, look for where there are gaps. That will show you what needs to be fixed.

And don't feel bad. We've all messed things up. They key to being a successful woodworker is being able to fix these problems and adjust your plans to match.

I have this table built, and started to stain it, but HATED the color stain I bought (minwax gun something). What is the color of stain that is used on the main picture above? Thanks!

I second that. Any Kreg jig tips on this project? Which Jig should i get for future projects? Is the 30$ one good for most projects on this site?

I really like the design of this table and am going to make one for our living room. One suggestion - I really love using my Kreg Jig for building projects out of wood. It will allow me to join all of the pieces together without any screws showing. Just an idea. Keep up the good work!

Im so happy to have found your site Ana......i have a question, I have a 38"x49" plywood board that i want to use as the table top. I am new at this and want to know what measurement should i use for the leg joiners and side aprons. Please help, im new at this...thank you in advance

Landie

Im so happy to have found your site Ana......i have a question, I have a 38"x49" plywood board that i want to use as the table top. I am new at this and want to know what measurement should i use for the leg joiners and side aprons. Please help, im new at this...thank you in advance

Landie

love this! How do I get the beautiful dark finish you have here? Could you give specific recommendations on what to buy for the stain/varnish/paint etc? Thanks!

Hi there, my wife directed me to your website hinting that I try my hand at making one of these beautiful tables. The build itself looks very straight forward, but I'm wondering what kind of wood and stain were used on the table in the first picture (because it looks great!). Looking forward to your reply and getting started on my own set soon!

I have really enjoyed looking through the site and have found several projects that I will be doing in the near future. I Had a little problem when trying to open the PDF. Is there something that can be done about that.

This was my first project, so I can definitely use some pointers. The butcher-block ends are really wobbly (like if you put your feet up on the table, they bend downward), as are the two 2x4 side pieces on the top. Any suggestions on how to make them more sturdy if I were to do this again?
Thanks!

Jenn,
My suggestion would be to build the tabletop first. This way you can drill pocket screws from each 2x4 into the 2x6s. You can also pocket screw the 2x4s together. Then build the base and pocket screw the tabletop to the base. This is how I did it and it is extremely sturdy. Good luck!

Ana,
Love your site. Could you tell me what kind of stain is used for this coffee table shown in the picture? Thanks so much.
Regards,
GK

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