Planked Wood Sideboard

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Planked Wood Sideboard

How to build a wood sideboard inspired by Restoration Hardware Salvaged Wood Sideboard.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Gigantic.

Huge.

Enormous. 

Or how about amazing, beautiful, stunning, glorious?

Hillary's sideboard, inspired by Restoration Hardware Salvaged Wood Sideboard, retailing for no less than $2995, made of reclaimed pine, can be yours with some elbow grease and a flatbed cart full of lumber.

And you can paint or stain it any color you choose.  I love the very deep and lustrous milk paint finish Hillary finished this sideboard with.
I encourage you this morning - if you are building or not this sideboard - to stop over and read Hillary's post.  She's a talented and clever lady, with lots of tips and tricks that could be useful when building most projects.  
And of course, the full plans follow for those of you needing a sideboard in your home.
Shopping List: 

6 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
7 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x6 @ 6 feet long
¼” thick x 3 ½” wide boards for door panels or ¼” plywood or paneling
1 – sheet ¾” hardwood plywood
10 feet of 4 ¼” base moulding
3 – 15” drawer slides
2 ½” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” finish nails
2 ½” finish nails
1 – sheet ¼” plywood

3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above. Huge - be warned!
Cut List: 

4 - 2x4 @ 34 ½” (Legs)
4 – 2x4 @ 10 ½” (Panel ends)
6 – 1x4 @ 23 ½” (Side Panels)
2 – 2x4 @ 75 ½” (Bottom Supports)
1 – ¾” plywood @ 16 ¾” x 75 ½”
2 – ¾” plywood @ 16 ¾” x 30 ¼”
2 – 1x4 @ 18 1/8”
2 – 1x2 @ 75 ½”
2 – 1x2 @ 5 5/8”
2 – 1x2 @ 22 3/8”
2 – 2x4 @ 18”
2 – 2x4 @ 77”
2 – 2x6 @ 77”
8 – 1x4 @ 22 ¼”
8 – 1x4 @ 11”
¼” x 3 ½” hobby stock for backs of doors or ¼” plywood or paneling
2 – 1x4 @ 16 ¾”
6 – 1x4 @ 15 ½”
2 – 1x4 @ 33 3/4” (Measure and fit)
4 – 1x4 @ 15 5/8” (Measure and fit)
1x6 for drawer faces – cut to fit
1 – ¼” plywood @ 77” x 32” (Back)

Step 1: 

Starting on the inside 1x4 panel and working your way out to adding legs, build your ends with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, hiding your screws on the insides. Keep all edges flush. Remember that the backs are flush, but the outer side is not, with the 1x4 panel inset.

Step 2 Instructions: 

I really wanted this sideboard to NEVER sag in the middle, so these boards are more for support than anything. I recommend attaching with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws from the back side to hide. Set aside, we'll work on the storage part now.

Step 3 Instructions: 

For the storage part, attach plywood dividers to bottom very carefully, making sure joints are square.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Then fit the center divider into the base as shown above. Fit flush to back.

Step 5 Instructions: 

These guys are for keeping the drawer areas square.

Step 6 Instructions: 

On the front, add trim, being very careful to make sure your trim is square and straight. Remember, we've got drawers to fit.

Step 7 Instructions: 

The remaining front trim is flush to the inside of side cabinets, overhanging the center cabinet.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Build top as shown in diagram.

Step 9 Instructions: 

You can attach top now, or as Hillary recommends, attach top after installing drawers.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Cut baseboard, mitering corners to fit bottom. Nail on with glue.

Step 11: 

Build your door frames as shown above.

Step 12: 

Then attach hobby stock to centers to complete doors.

Step 13: 

These are for the drawers.

Step 14: 

Build drawers to fit openings. Remember, most drawer slides require 1/2" clearance on each side, or 1" overall. It's always a good idea to double check measurements with diagrams before building drawers.

Step 15: 

Install drawers with slides, set in 3/4" for the drawer faces. Then cut drawer faces and attach to drawers with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 16: 

Add back. I really loved how Hillary inset her back.

Step 17: 

And finally, add shelves.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

Hi, Mickeyblueeyes. The drawer faces are 1x6 pieces, so if you add that (5.5 inches) the door height in the plan and move the horizontal part of the face frame up to the top (instead of between the drawers and doors) then you'd be good to go. It would be a very, very simple adjustment to make. And a lot easier than building drawers! Good luck!

This is absolutely beautiful. Really. Stunning. I'm headed over right now to check out Hillary's site. My home is slowly filling with furniture from Ana's site, and this is going on my to-do list right now. I was brainstorming and searching on pinterest for sideboard ideas, but this one is perfect and gorgeous. Thanks, once more, to Ana and to Hillary.

That is really nice! I keep changing up my "to-do" list with different console tables and this one here is now the current favorite. I hope I can get it built before you post another one that I like even more. :)

Loving this! Thanks for another great plan Ana. Hillary your cabinet is gorgeous Please tell me ya'll are going to have plans for the vinters hutch.

This is absolutely beautiful, and just what I need for my dining room! Thanks for another great plan, Ana!!

This cabinet is just what I was looking for, but to big for my space. I am new to make your own furniture, but really excited about all the possibilities. How would I figure out what is needed to just create the middle section? Thanks...and love your site! Congrats on the Homies too (that is how I found you! =)

My question is what kind of hinges did you use? Me and hinges have not been getting along lately and I figured better to ask than to drill holes trying to figure it out myself! Thanks!

Hi Ana and Hillary- love these plans! Thank you very much for this. We are cutting the wood for this plan right now and am so excited. We are following the plans exactly so I have a couple quick comments/questions. We found it vey helpful with the cut list when you had what it was for in parentheses- keeping it all organized. Did we miss the interior shelves in your plans? Is hobby stock like beaded board that snaps together in different boards. or is it beaded board that is like a panel? (Canadians). Thank you
PS. How do you stop the ends of Purebond from getting chewed up going through the table saw? Heather

Hi, Heather. Sorry it took me so long to find this question!

It sounds like you need a new blade on your table saw -- one for finer cuts. That will keep your plywood from getting as chewed up. I just replaced the ones on my miter saw and my circular saw recently and it makes a huge difference. The stock blades are for rough cuts.

Hobby stock is 1/2" thick or thinner, and in lots of different widths.

I think the plans might have left out interior shelves. I have a vague memory of buying extra wood for them.

I hope your console came out well!

I have built over 30 different things on this site and up until now had ZERO problem with anything, but this plan is missing a good bit of info. If you are not experienced I would not try tackling this one. No where in the directions does it tell you what to make the bottom of the drawers with not to mention you are missing wood for shelved etc at the end so you have to go back to the hardware store. It is a very beautiful piece but you will need to go through the plans and be able to decipher what is not told or explained before you start.

There are definitely a few things that have been left out.

You will need at least one more 1x2 at 8'. This is to complete the trim.

If you plan on making shelves, you will need to buy extra wood for that, along with another 1x2 for trim. I decided to use my router to just round the edges of my shelves so I didn't need the 1x2.

There is no wood in the supply list for the back of the sideboard as well as for the bottoms of the drawers. I just picked up a 1/4" sheet of plywood and was able to use it for the drawers and the back. BUT, I used my rabbet router bit to inset the 1/4" piece onto the back of the sideboard. Otherwise, the 4x8 sheet of 1/4" plywood still isnt enough wood. (A 15.5" cut for bottoms of drawers leaves 32.25" left on the sheet but the height of the sideboard is 34.5". SO, I made sure to inset the backing so I didnt have to buy even MORE lumber.)

As for the drawers, you will need another 1x4 at 8' to complete the drawer building.

As for the faces of the drawers, a 6' piece of 1x6 is ALMOST enough but runs just a lil short. You will need a 1x6 at 8' instead of what the plans call for.

I am still in the process of building, but those are just a few of the things that were wrong with the plans. With so many extra trips to the big blue and orange stores, this project has ended up costing much much more than I expected!
It is a beautiful piece though, my wife will absolutely love it, and I have loved working on it. Thanks Hillary!

Thanks, Rob, for your help with this! Yes, the plan is missing a few bits. I should have kept better track of those as I build the piece for Ana! You're right -- it isn't a cheap plan. I think I spent just shy of $400 for all the supplies. Compared to buying it retail, it's still a bargain, right?

Yeah I think I spent around $400 as well. It turned out WAY better than I expected. The drawers and doors kicked my butt and were slightly frustrating (mostly because I am not an advanced carpenter) but it looks awesome in our living room! It looks very expensive and my wife is happy, so I am happy too! I wish I could send a pic to show how good it looks...

Does anyone know if these missing pieces got corrected in the plans? I just want to make sure I'm planning the right way! :)

Just curious as to what type of wood you used or the dimensions you gave above. Also any alternative that would work nice compared to the type you used?

I used bottom-of-the-barrel cheap-o 2x4s, 2x6s, and #2 pine because I was going for a rustic look. You could definitely upgrade to straighter, clearer, nicer wood depending on the look you want!

I love this! Hubby and I are going to try to build this for our dining room...any suggestions on a hutch?

New to all of this and already confused! When you call out separate dimensions for the pocket holes and the pocket hole screws, what does that mean. I understand the length of the screw, but looking at the Kreg Jig, aren't all the holes the same size? What's the difference between a 3/4" pocket hole and a 1 3/4 " pocket hole? (Yes, I know the easy answer is 1"; but you know what I mean!!)

The 3/4 is for your 1x dimensional lumber and the 1 1/2 is for your 2x dimensional lumber. Reasoning is if you actually measure a 1x4 it is 3/4x3 1/2. 2x4 is 1 1/2x3 1/2.

Just posted a brag about this project. Thank you for the awesome plans. I inset the back as described in your blog and it worked fantastic. I needed the extra storage space so I opted to remove the drawers and extend the cabinet doors. I had a lot of fun building this one.

This looks amazing! I need one for my frozen yogurt store. I want to transform it in a coffee shop too and i have a small hallway and i want to put some of the plates and spoons and cups there. I could also work as a mini-bar for the children too. I will show this to my husband and maybe he'll start the project soon.

This is a great project, and you pulled it off nicely! I'm not a very crafty person, but I did take the time to paint bag tags with my 5 year old daughter and we had a great time!

I used planked wood to build a play kitchen for my 6 year old daughter, and I noticed it's a reliable material, used in Phoenix doors and in many other wooden accessories you can find at Home Depot. Anyway I love what you did with the restauration of that old cabinet, and I would like to try it myself as soon as I get all the necessary tools.

I've just finished this build with my fiance (brag posted) and we had to completely rescale the whole thing in order to allow it to fit into our cottage. The instructions you gave allowed this to be MUCH simpler than it could have been but my main bit of advice to anyone changing anything is work out the key dimensions (in our case all of them! h x w x d) and then all the new lengths you 'should' need but measure and cut the wood as you go! We are fairly new at this and naturally made the odd mistake but this approach meant that we could adjust as we went and it still worked out using the estimated wood and we found our miscalculations by double checking each required cut length on the actual build instead of trusting our (as it turned out slightly off in places) initial calculations.

Good luck to anyone attempting this - it was great fun and looks fantastic! Thank you!

http://ellawilliams.wordpress.com/2013/08/31/planked-wood-sideboard-a-li...

Curious about what type / style hinges used for the doors I'm done to that point just not sure which to use.

duckincrazy

So i am engaged in this project as my first one and loving it! as im getting to the point of attaching the top to the base and was wondering where all the points of connection were? I saw in photos and diagram that it uses the plywood dividers and the spacers in the back, but where else does it screw to? it just seems that there would be more, but not sure where.

do i drill pocket holes in the side panel on both sides and attach there as well?

thanks!

Has anyone attempted a hutch to go on top of this? I am planning on building this as my next project and I would like a match hutch as well.

Hello! I'm to the point of the build where the instructions say to install the baseboards....only I don't see any baseboards on the cut list! I'm wondering what I should use here?? What have others used? Should I just use a 1x5? Or something else?

I LOVE this piece! It is what I am looking for, though bigger than what I need. I'm afraid that if I try to 'shrink' it down it will lose the look.

Ideally I would want something like this that was 30" tall, 16" deep and no longer than 6'. But would that make the doors look odd and stumpy, and the drawers too small to be of any use? Any idea where I could go for help in figuring out the best way to size this project down?

Thank you! ~ Nicki

If you do some creative searching of the brag posts, there are a few people on here who have made it smaller by keeping each cabinet the same size, but bringing it down to 3 cabinets w/ drawers instead of four. Does that make sense? They just had to decide which way they wanted the doors to open.