Free easy plans to build a DIY cabinet, inspired by Pottery Barn's Avery Cabinet. Simple vintage styling, pretty turned legs. Step by step plans include a cut list, shopping list, and detailed diagrams.
4 - Turned Feet, 6-8" in length
2 sets of Euro Style Inset Hinges (see step 9)
1 - set 16" Drawer Slides (see step 8)
4 - Knobs or handles
1 - full sheet 3/4" plywood
1 - half sheet of 1/4" plywood
1 - 1x6 @ 24" long
1 - 1x12 @ 48" long
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 4 feet long
3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x16 @ 32" (side panels)
4 - 1x2 @ 15 1/2" (width of side panels above)
4 - 2x2 @ 32" (Legs)
1 - 1x16 @ 23" (Shelf)
1 - 1x16 @ 28" (Top)
3 - 1x2 @ 23" (Shelf Trim)
1 - 1x2 @ 28" (Top Trim)
1 - 1x3 @ 28" (Top Trim)
1 - 1/4" plywood or beadboard @ 32 3/4" x 26" (Back)
1 - 1x4 @ 23"
1 - 1x6 @ 22 3/4" (Face)
2 - 1x4 @ 16" (Sides)
1 - 1x4 @ 22" (Back)
1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 16 3/4" x 22"
2 - 1x12 @ 21 1/4"
To get 1x16 boards, simply cut the plywood into strips 15 1/2" wide by 8 feet long. You can also use 1x12s for the sides, but your cabinet will be 4" narrower. You will then need to use 12" drawer slides instead of 16".
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Nail the 1x2 trim to the tops and bottoms of the side panels.
Now add the 2x2 legs to the side panels as shown above. Pocket hole screws set for 3/4" stock, 1 1/4" screws would be best, from the inside. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, carefully glue and screw in place as shown in diagram.
Once the sides are done, attach top in place, in line with the 1x16 side panels. Nail down with 2" finish nails and wood glue. Then mark 9 3/4" up from the bottom of the legs. Attach the shelf, above this mark (so there is a 9 3/4" gap BELOW the bottom shelf). You can use pocket holes, nails or screws and glue.
IMPORTANT: Width of cabinet is designed to use 1x12s that measure 11 1/4" wide for the doors. If your 1x12s are not 11 1/4" wide, you will need to adjust the width of the cabinet. Here's the math - each 1x12 is 11 1/4" wide plus 1/8" clearance on both sides to equal 11 1/2". 11 1/2" x 2 = 23". Adjust these measurements to fit your 1x12 widths. You will need to adjust all horizontal boards if you do make an adjustment.
Attach top trim to top, glue and clamp in place for an even joint between the top board and trim. Do the same for the shelf trim. Measure down 5 3/4" from the shelf trim and attach the last trim board. We'll be adding support to this guy in a bit.
IMPORTANT: This measurement assumes that your drawer face 1x6 is 5 1/2" wide, with a total of 1/4" clearance to equal 5 3/4". If your drawer faces are "off" adjust accordingly.
I find attaching first, and then cutting is easiest for me. Attach in place - should strengthen up that last trim board quite a bit - and then mark a pattern and cut out with a jigsaw.
Now things are getting fun! Attach the legs per instructions with the feet.
Build the drawer as shown above. The bottom is 1/4" plywood, sides are 1x4s and face is 1x6. The face overhangs sides by 3/8" and drawer face conceals the entire drawer box. Adjust for square.
Once drawer is complete, attach to cabinet using 16" drawer slides like these:
Doors - per step three, should fit nice, with an even 1/8" gap on all sides. Attach with hinges like these:
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.