Fancy X Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 05/23/2019 - 11:19
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65.  A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times.  

We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.

dark wood stained farmhouse table with X legs and cross bracing
side view of farmhouse table with cross bracing

 

 

Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag! 

 

 

Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

 

Thanks Whitney!!!

 

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with X bracing
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long

7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long

3” self tapping wood screws 

2 ½” pocket hole screws

2” finish nails

Cut List

ENDS

  • 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
  • 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”

 

MAIN TABLE

2 – 2x4 @ 65”

2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)

4 – 2x10 @ 96”

 

** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:

4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws

Step 2

Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side

Step 3

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.

Step 4

And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8”  short point to short point. 

Step 5

Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends

Step 6

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8

The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes.  But you will have to fill later with wood filler.

An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.

Step 9

And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.

If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

WandaR (not verified)

Sat, 12/22/2012 - 11:39

I have figured out where to place the screws and such for the base of the table, but have no idea how to attach the 4 2x10s together to make the table top or how to the attach the base to the table top. Any advice?

Annette Davis (not verified)

Mon, 12/24/2012 - 17:44

Hi! I love the plans for the farm house table! I need a larger table that will seat 12 -14 people or larger. HOW WOULD YOU ADAPT THE PLANS FOR A LARGER TABLE?

I can easily handle a table up to 14' long or 8' x 8' sq. on the patio I am building. I prefer the square design.

Ginnie Jones (not verified)

Tue, 01/22/2013 - 19:57

Love this style of table. i plan on making two tables from this pattern. A long one for outside with the bench seating. A smaller version for the dining area in my home. My dining space is rather small. A similar version of this table is also featured in the Better Homes and Garden Magazine, February issue. The chairs in the article are mix-matched in two different styles. They are also painted in two different colors. I cannot decide if I want benches for seating for the inside table or paint the chairs.

Ginnie Jones (not verified)

Tue, 01/22/2013 - 20:19

Love it Love it! I am going to build two tables. A long version for outside with the bench seating. A smaller version to use in my dining area space. The Better Homes and Garden magazine shows a similar version of this table in the February editon. In the article the mix-matched chairs are painted in two different colors. Its a really great idea. I am kind of torn between chairs or benches. But in the end I think it will be chairs that will be used inside. My husband would prefer chairs.

Missysue

Tue, 01/29/2013 - 08:45

How do you attach the cross braces? I read somewhere that someone suggested using countersink screws from the bottom and top. I can't find 5 inch screws. This is my first project.
Thank.

Wintonae

Thu, 07/25/2013 - 21:27

I am confused about that too. Perhaps on the narrow top edge of the 2x4? I am still wondering how to attach the top as well. Are the boards joined together before screwing them down?

Shadoglare

Sat, 02/16/2013 - 13:22

So I've now been working on the project for I think two or three months, and so far it's pretty much been a total nightmare. 2x4s and especially 2x10s are not easy to work with other than for simple crosscuts. When I built the base of the table I was having constant issues with not being able to get the cut angles consistent (using a circular saw - I've seen bought a small table saw, partially because of my frustration with this project), and when I eventually got that to a point I called "good enough," the top of the table has proved to be da**ed near impossible. I've probably spent hours sifting through 2x10s (which in itself is not easy work) trying to find the rare few that weren't badly cracked or otherwise damaged, and what I thought was at least reasonably straight, only to get them home and find that they warped or cupped after sitting in my basement for a few days. Then even more frustrating is none of them seem to be cut perfectly straight down the sides, so I'm unable to join them together in a way that makes it look like a single surface - I might as well have been building a picnic table to stick in our dining room. My next step is probably going to be to see if I can find some better quality kiln-dried wood to see if it works better for the top - but it doesn't come in 2x10 form, apparently only 1x10. Side note - I don't know where the $60 materials price came from, but even not counting mess-ups I'd say closer to $100 is probably more accurate once you've included hardware, stain, etc even if you stick with the low-end construction pine - just the 2x10 boards for the tabletop are close to $10 a pop (so hopefully I'll find another use for them since they're basically garbage now that it looks like they're unusable for the table).

Jake

Sat, 02/16/2013 - 18:13

Really sorry you are having such problems. Those of us that patronize Lowe's and Home Depot live with similar problems on every project but I guess we get use to it. We learn that sometimes you have to go to both stores to get the total shopping list. But I would suggest that you make your interest and needs known to a "local" lumberyard. They typically stock pine in No 1 grade which is usually straight, un-warped, and the fewest knots. And the price is less than at big Blue or big Orange. Mine even lets me rummage through their pile of sticks and pick my own.

You can cut good joints with a circular saw but try and find yourself a used chop saw. Probably $50 will get you a great saw but equip it with a really good blade which will cost you another $40 but well worth it.

The last comment I have is to ignore the posts that brag about how quickly or how cheaply (or both) they build a project. I would double every number you see in that respect. Hey pockethole screws cost nearly 10 cents each so on a big project with 100 PHs that is $10 by itself. Add in glue, sandpaper, paint or stain and you are nearing $50 and haven't bought wood. So build at your own pace. We all do.

seejaneread

Mon, 04/15/2013 - 07:09

We love these plans but want to make the table "skinnier". Is there a basic formula for making it, say, about 30" across the top, instead of the 37"? (or something around there, whatever makes the math easier)