Community Brag Posts

I bought a house in 2011, and I didn’t like the way the door looked in a dining room that leads to the crawl space and a little broom closet. So instead, I built a bookshelf on hinges and painted it white and so with the help of the plans from Inset Bookshelf Doorway plans I was able to create some more bookshelf space within my house for my Fiance, who is an avid reader and Librarian. I apologize for the lack of pictures as I had no idea it would turn out so well. It was actually relatively easy using a circular saw, a kreg jig, wood glue, wood filler, and a spray painter, I thought it turned out well. At first, I measured the doorway, and adjusted the plans to meet my needs taking into account that a 2x4 is actually a 1 3/4 by 3 3/4. This was the hardest thing for me to adjust to is the actual wood size. From there, I started building out the frame. Once that was complete, I added in the shelves with the Kreg Jig to make sure that it was all flush and hidden. Lastly, I added in 1/4 inch sheet wood for the back. Now it was time to prep. I took wood filler and filled in the sides, where the drill holes were, and since I could not get sheet wood long enough for the whole door frame to make sure everything was smooth so I used wood filler and puddy to fill in the space in between. Once everything was dry, I used my Ryobi paint sprayer and may have over-done it on the first pass, since this was my first time using it. After cleaning it up, I applied another coat and I am pretty happy. Finally, I finished it off with a magnetic pin to lock it in place so it appears to be shut and all you have to do is to push to open. Future updates, per the Fiance's request is to use a book with string through the back to unlock it in a gated fashion. I hope you guys enjoy, and I apologize for the lack of overall detail. This was done over a year ago and I have since cleaned out my notes.

I made this in an afternoon. Loved this project. It is made with 2x4's using a Kregs Jig and mitre saw (plus additional tools like a drill and square).  This was my frist time using the Kregs Jig and I am sold!!

The free plans were taken from another website. They are very detailed and there is even a video (I recommend it as he gives a great tip for making sure the back stays equal/level to each other before putting the back on). Even though you can build this by yourself, I did have help for the heavier sides once they were assembled.  I plan to build the additional side table soon and finish them both with sanding and staining when the weather seems less iffy for rain.

If you are looking for a good beginner project that doesn't take forever or have complicated steps, this is your project.

I haven't really done anything like this, came out quite well. I modified the back for what I think is better comfort, added side supports to hold throw pillows in place and added 2 extra 2x4's to seating surfaces. The sofa I built in an afternoon with an extra pair of hands to line things up and hold them in place. The sectional took a little longer to complete as my helper was off building his own couch (after he saw how simple it was to do). I also didn't use a pocket jig (couldn't find one in rural hardware store) but a countersink drill bit for all screw holes. 

We wanted to make a large sandbox for lots of kids. We love that it has an easy cover and two large benches to sit.

Supplies and Steps are shared at http://myhomedonemyway.blogspot.com/2013/07/building-6-x-8-sandbox.html

I made this fast and easy table, I was using as a small night stand in a small bunk room at my work for a coworker.  I used scraps that I had and had him choose a paint I had on hand! Covered the top with polyacrylic to add some protection!

I'm happy to share with everyone my IKEA hack 6" tray cabinet.

I found a 24" cabinet box in IKEA's As-Is section and took it home for half price ($23)!  I would have preferred plywood, but my table saw is a little small and cutting large sheets of plywood is a little scary.  When I deconstructed the cabinet, it sustained some damage (as its particleboard), so if you try this at home, be careful!  I ended up changing the depth to 22" in order to cut off the damaged piece, but that shouldnt be noticeable with average trays and cutting boards.  

I used Ana's 6" tray cabinet plan and modified the dimensions a little for my planned space.  It still needs the back, face frame and door (which will be a replacement drawer front from the cabinet manufacturer).  I plan on building the face frame at the time the cabinets are installed, since this will go in between the 36" corner easy-reach and the 36" sink base.  Once its done, I'll post updated pics!

These are made from the 4x4 posts, 2x4 rails, and slats from an old wooden fence that weren't good enough to re-use when we repaired the fence.

It's close to the Simple outdoor bench, but I simplified the plan even more to take advantage of the pile of free lumber. Or maybe it's the Simple Outdoor Dining Table ... but a lot shorter.

CAUTION: Be careful to remove ALL nails, screws and bolts from the lumber you are reusing. If you can't get the metal out, mark that area and figure out a cut that won't hit it.

TIPS FOR RECLAIMED LUMBER:
* Trim the ends of the lumber square before you measure.
* Don't try to salvage split or rotted wood. Trim it off and see what you can do with the good bits.
* Plan your cuts so you have the least waste.

TOOLS:
10" Miter saw
Wood glue
Nail gun, with 2 1/2 and 1 1/4 inch 16gauge nails for gun (You could use deck screws if you have them)
Surform Pocket plane (wood rasp from Stanley tools)

CUT LIST:
For one bench, 21x36

NOTE: To cut a 4x4 cleanly with the 10" miter saw, put a thin shim behind each side of the 4x4

4 4x4 post scraps, 18 inches long (legs)
2 2x4 18 inches long (sides)
2 2x4 36 inches long (front and back rail)
10 fence slat pieces, 21 inches long (cut to fit the top after it is assembled)

ASSEMBLY:
See the picture of the underside of the bench:
1 - Square up the legs with the end pieces, glue and nail.
2 - Square the sides with the legs, so the legs are inside the 2x4 apron, glue and nail.
3 - Align the 2 end slats with the edges of the bench and nail through them into the 2x4 apron
4 - Space the rest of the slats on the top, leaving 1/8 inch or so etween the boards for drainage. Nail them to the 2x4 apron.

FINISH: Use the wood rasp to round the cut ends of the slats and 2x4s. Rasp with the grain to avoid raising splinters. Lightly rasp the tops of the slats to smooth any really rough spots.

A table or maybe a buffet is planned, with the same construction method, but a bit taller. Tables are 26-29 inches, most buffets are 36". It depends on what will make best use of the remaining bits.

Being a newby to woodworking, I wasn't sure if I could tackle this build. I saw pictures on your website and decided to give it a try. However, my wife wanted drawers so I made the doors a little shorter in order to add the 4 drawers but keep the height at 36". Thanks for your inspiration. I'm getting more comfortable everyday.